My original CARTER fuel pump.

[Fernando Mendes]

2 hours ago, bach4660 said:

the new one looks taller with one more loop of spring (or maybe same height with a tighter wind to the spring), might give stronger pump?

Thanks for your input.I did another flange gasket,with reduced center hole.That gasket is thin,the prior was thick.Tomorrow I will change the oil.My cock(BOLT) is always in front the hub cap singing and looking what I am doing in my cars."Who runs because like,does not feel tired"

[Dennis46PU]

Have you considered replacing that mechanical pump with an electric pump?  My mechanical pump failed recently that is only 1-1/2 year old.  I'm replacing it with a Carter electric vane pump because I'm tired of the problems with the mechanical pump.  

[Fernando Mendes]

10 minutes ago, Dennis46PU said:

Have you considered replacing that mechanical pump with an electric pump?  My mechanical pump failed recently that is only 1-1/2 year old.  I'm replacing it with a Carter electric vane pump because I'm tired of the problems with the mechanical pump.  

No.Various members of this forum already said to me,but I prefer mechanical.

[Fernando Mendes]

Hi guys.Now I withdrew the crankcase oil.I noticed that first fell a liquid like WATER(fast fall) and after an slow fall(oil).The can with these mixture became cold like a presence of water.The color grey and the wind arrived and moved the surface of the mixture(water+oil),looks like pure water.I functioned the engine and leaked oil through the thin flange gasket.I will do now a thick gasket.It is all for a while.I never changed the engine head gasket since 1987 when I bought this PU.Regards.

[Fernando Mendes]

On 07/01/2018 at 10:45 AM, Fernando Mendes said:

Hi guys.Now I withdrew the crankcase oil.I noticed that first fell a liquid like WATER(fast fall) and after an slow fall(oil).The can with these mixture became cold like a presence of water.The color grey and the wind arrived and moved the surface of the mixture(water+oil),looks like pure water.I functioned the engine and leaked oil through the thin flange gasket.I will do now a thick gasket.It is all for a while.I never changed the engine head gasket since 1987 when I bought this PU.Regards.

Today I put a copper crush washer in the drain plug.Did not overtighten.Stopped the leak.I was looking the notebook of my PU and saw that the last oil change was january,27th 2016,in two years it ran only 230 kilometers.It is because I am thinking now this water in the crankcase can be by condensation.

[Fernando Mendes]

[Fernando Mendes]

I think this pic speaks that I have to find another diaphragm with shorter stem.In this way I will can withdraw(does not need) the 5(five) paper gaskets.

[bach4660]

I might be wrong, but if you assembled the base with only one gasket you will increase the spring tension, creating a stronger fuel pressure?

The rubber stays fixed, and the metal disc (diaphram center) gets pulled down by the lever and the spring pushes it back up, so more spring tension the faster the return.

 

So this should work with one gasket

[Dozerman51]

Hello Fernando,

I see you have a Chrysler Industrial motor in your truck. What is the IND number? I have always used mechanical fuel pumps in both the 23” and now 25” IND-7 I have in my WC-12. Have never had a problem with them other than the diaphragm breaking on one after about 15 years of service. 

[The Oil Soup]

Do you have ethanol in your fuel in Brazil? Perhaps some of the liquid in the oil pan was fuel.

[Fernando Mendes]

4 hours ago, Dozerman51 said:

Hello Fernando,

I see you have a Chrysler Industrial motor in your truck. What is the IND number? I have always used mechanical fuel pumps in both the 23” and now 25” IND-7 I have in my WC-12. Have never had a problem with them other than the diaphragm breaking on one after about 15 years of service. 

My IND number is 69661C

[Fernando Mendes]

3 hours ago, The Oil Soup said:

Do you have ethanol in your fuel in Brazil? Perhaps some of the liquid in the oil pan was fuel.

Yes 25% ethanol.I changed engine and filter oil day 8th.I had never changed its oil since two years ago.It runs a little kilometers per years.This water in oil(increased level) and (grey color) is caused by condensation.Now I will follow every day if its color is good.I will contact then&now if they have a shorter diaphragm stem to my case.

[Fernando Mendes]

4 hours ago, Dozerman51 said:

Hello Fernando,

I see you have a Chrysler Industrial motor in your truck. What is the IND number? I have always used mechanical fuel pumps in both the 23” and now 25” IND-7 I have in my WC-12. Have never had a problem with them other than the diaphragm breaking on one after about 15 years of service. 

Was IND-7 engine original in your WC-12(military)? Why IND engine in these PU? IND engine was especific for what?(stationary)

[Dozerman51]

No. My truck originally came with a 23” 230 CI motor. I had this motor in my truck from May of1987 until May of 2106. I then did a restoration on the truck and installed the 25” IND-7(used in a military arc welder) which I had lying around after changing the cam, and installing a “Spitfire” Head out of a 1941 Chrysler Royal. Very little modifications needed to install in the truck and absolutely no cutting or welding on frame to do it. Looks very nice in engine compartment. 

[Dozerman51]

“2016 not “2106”.

[Fernando Mendes]

5 hours ago, Dozerman51 said:

“2016 not “2106”.

Ok.Thanks.Regards.*Note:If you want write me more in PM.

[Fernando Mendes]

For a while my fuel pump is ok,without leakage.I sent a message to THEN&NOW and ask if exist a several sizes of diaphragm pull rod.They answered me that exist.My diaphragm pull rod has 50 mm.I think the correct to my fuel pump will be with 47mm.

[Fernando Mendes]

Hi guys.I knew a news these days: "FUEL DOES NOT TURN OIL GREY,coolant does."

[Fernando Mendes]

Page 9,Driver's Manual series B3-B,B3-C.

Who is guilty?

1.Diaphragm fuel pump.

2.Worn piston rings.

3.Continuously operated below normal operating temperature.

[Fernando Mendes]

Sludge, as seen as a thick layer of congealed oil and crud at the bottom of the oil pan is probably mostly due to blowby from bad rings and contributed to by a poorly tuned engine as well as one that is not driven much.

The condensation seen in the oil filler tube as a whitish/grey layer is definitely due to condensation. That is from a warm (not hot) engine being left in a damp, cold environment where moisture forms. This is usually pretty much eliminated once the jeep is driven for a few longer drives than just down to the store or the post office. If you take a few 30 mile plus drives then the engine and the oil will reach a temperature high enough to burn off the water vapors in the crankcase and oil filler tube.

Again....starting with a well-tuned engine you can determine if you have sludge or not and checking the dipstick/oil filler tube after those few longer hot drives. Dropping the pan and cleaning out that sludge is a very GOOD maintenance plan as any bits of metal or chemicals in it that are unfriendly to bearings will be removed that way!

Another friend's recommendation.

[bach4660]

so how often do you get to drive your Truck?

[Fernando Mendes]

18 hours ago, bach4660 said:

so how often do you get to drive your Truck?

In two years I ran only 230 km or 143 miles.(jan16-jan18)

[Fernando Mendes]

[Fernando Mendes]

[Fernando Mendes]

Today I measured the compression ratio of my IND-251c.i.d(psi)

Nr 1cylinder:75,90,75,90,90.

Nr 2 cylinder:40,80,70,80,80

Nr 3 cylinder:70,80,90,90

Nr 4 cylinder:80,90,90,80

Nr 5 cylinder:70,80,90,70

Nr 6 cylinder:70,90,90,70,80.