Fluid drive bell housing / rear main seal

[frcc16]

My rear main seal has an annoying leak and I would like to replace it.   The first thing I noticed is that the bell housing of the fluid drive is blocking access to the seal halves.  This same bell housing appears to extend underneath the rear drive train support (and may be held in place by the two rear motor mounts.   Does anyone have experience with removing the fluid drive bell housing?  What are the tricks, if any?  Do I need to remove the two rear motor/transmission mounts in order to remove the housing?

Thanks!

Greg

[Branded]

Yes, you need to support the engine and remove the rear mounts and bolts. You will also need to remove the fluid coupling, it is mounted to the crankshaft with 8 bolts. Be ready when you pull the fluid coupling, its heavy. Once the fluid coupling is removed the seal halves can then be replaced.

 

After second thought you may be able to remove the fluid coupling after pulling the  transmission with out pulling the bellhousing, no 100% sure if there's enough room or not.

Edited August 29, 2017 by Branded

[frcc16]

Thanks... as I expected!   For some reason, this part of the drive train isn't illustrated very well in any documentation!

Greg

[Branded]

I'm trying to remember when I had mine apart but I'm thinking the fluid coupling needs to come out first otherwise the bellhousing won't clear the coupling. If that's the case you won't need to remove the bellhousing. With the fluid coupling out of the way the seal mounting bolts will be exposed.

[dpollo]

You can remove the lower bell housing cover and the fluid drive unit without removing the bell housing from the car, I have done so on a 49 Desoto.It should then be possible to change the rear seal.  I just looked at a FD bell housing and it does not crowd in on the crankshaft flange or the seal.  Sometimes it is necessary to remove  mounting studs for the transmission to get the bottom cover off the bell housing.  It is a bit tight under the crossmember.

[wayfarer]

Be prepared to fight the nuts that hold the FC to the crank. You will need a long 5/8" box end wrench; you will only access one at a time and once loosened you can spin the nut off of the stud with the tip of your finger. I have never found these to be rusted, just in an awful position.

[dpollo]

Also, the Fluid Drive unit, just like the flywheel on a regular drive goes on in one position only.  Mark it with a paint marker before disassembly.  What I have done is to place the crankshaft in the TDC position according to the timing marks, then put a paint mark on the flywheel or the  Fluid Drive at the six o clock position.   This works especially well when swapping an engine but leaving the fluid drive in place.

[Don Coatney]

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