Tubeviper Posted May 31, 2017 Report Posted May 31, 2017 Well my foot-operated starter quit the other day and I have some questions: 1) It seems to me that the Dodge starters up until at least 1942 were 6V. Is this correct? 2) Are there 12V foot operated starters available or 3) Should I just be using a 6V starter on my converted 12V system? 4) Should I take the opportunity to convert to a 12V solenoid operated starter? 5) If so, which 12V starter part number will fit my '42? Thanks! Quote
maok Posted May 31, 2017 Report Posted May 31, 2017 Just repair your faulty starter. You will be surprised how easy they are to get going again. What is wrong with it? My guess, without much detail of the fault, most likely the Bendix spring has broken. Quote
Tubeviper Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Posted May 31, 2017 It does not turn, groan, smoke or do anything at all. My money's with the switch... Quote
maok Posted May 31, 2017 Report Posted May 31, 2017 If it doesn't turn at all then, yes, could be the foot switch. To test, use jump starter leads directly to the starter from the battery to see of it turns. If it does turn then its the switch or connections between the switch and starter. If it doesn't turn then it could be a stuck pinion gear on the ring gear. Quote
The Oil Soup Posted May 31, 2017 Report Posted May 31, 2017 My '53 was 6v and the starter works fine on 12v. Are you sure it is getting power? Quote
Tubeviper Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Posted May 31, 2017 Does anyone have the 1942 Assembly / Parts Manual / Build Info which would have the factory starter part number? Thanks! Quote
Tubeviper Posted June 1, 2017 Author Report Posted June 1, 2017 After much effort, I finally got the starter out to find no plate on it. I have no idea the part number, application, repairabiliy, etc. Whenever I replace a major sub-assembly on my '42, I always try to replace it with the manufacturer's correctly numbered part. However, after putting MAW-4026 in GOOGLE, i was not encouraged. Therefore, a couple questions: 1) Does anyone have or know of a genuine AutoLite MAW-4026 Starter which I could buy? 2) Does MAW-4026 cross to a more available starter? Thanks! Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted June 1, 2017 Report Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) I don't know if this will help or not . In my Auto-Lite catalog that goes up to 1951 , The starter for 1942 WC truck is MZ 4115 . The starter for 1942 D22 and D23 cars is MAW 4026 . The MZ 4115 was also in the 1945 WC and in some of the 1946 & 1947 WC trucks . Edited June 1, 2017 by Jerry Roberts Quote
Dozerman51 Posted June 1, 2017 Report Posted June 1, 2017 Look online, e-pay, craigslist etc for, a suitable interchange. some that should interchange would be an MZ-4115, MAW-4029, MAW-4030 etc. By the way, the 1942 Dodge WC 1/2 ton 4x2's bought by the US Gov. for the Army were spec. out with MZ-4115 starters as OEM units. The main differences between the MZ starters and the MAW starters are a slightly larger starter and hench, more powerful. As far as installing a correctly numbered part for your truck, yes if you are into a complete restoration. If not, IMO, the MZ-4115 and MAW-4029 are for sure CC tagged starters along with the MAW-4030 which is a later production unit made by Presotile which at that time was owned by CC. Vintage Power Wagons sells rebuilt and NOS starters I believe that would work on your truck also. Hope this info helps. Quote
maok Posted June 1, 2017 Report Posted June 1, 2017 Did you confirm that it is the starter that is faulty and not the switch or connections? 1 Quote
Tubeviper Posted June 1, 2017 Author Report Posted June 1, 2017 The thing is such a trashed piece of oily gunk, I'd like to get a clean new or rebuilt one. There are MAW-4029s on Ebay now. Thank you all! Quote
maok Posted June 1, 2017 Report Posted June 1, 2017 A can of degreaser, scrubbing brush and a high pressure hose will fix that problem in 15 minutes. I can assure you, there is no better feeling than doing the job yourself. Unbolt it off the engine and put a battery ( 6 or 12 volt, it wont matter) on it for a moment (it will spark a little) to see if the pinion gear turns. Quote
Tubeviper Posted June 5, 2017 Author Report Posted June 5, 2017 I pulled my current starter out, cleaned it up and got it working. So I am in the arduous process of putting it back in (the inner mounting bolt is a PAIN!!) While I had it out, I noticed the AutoLite tag was missing but right under where the tag had been there was an "MZ-4062" stamped in the frame. So which vehicle and year does an MZ-4062 go with and can I expect any problems using it on my '42 - 218? Thanks! Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted June 7, 2017 Report Posted June 7, 2017 MZ 4062 was used in a 1940 Dodge car model D14 or D17 . I don't know if it will work with your 1942 vehicle . Quote
Tubeviper Posted July 2, 2017 Author Report Posted July 2, 2017 I wanted to give everyone an update. I procured an NOS MZ-4115. Problem was that it was not an MZ-4115 but it had a different front end. The manual switch mechanism didn't line up. Therefore, I took the front end off my old starter and put it on my new starter. Then I had to rotate the nose about 15 degrees and redrill the bolt holes so switch and lever would line up. Then I got the starter put in. So at this point, I basically have a new starter. What will it do? Nothing.. still dead Then the words of maok came back to me: "Did you confirm that it is the starter that is faulty and not the switch or connections?" The battery cables were really crapilly made and sure enough, I found a high resistance connection. I pulled all of the battery cabling out and replaced it. Starter runs like a champ now... 1 Quote
maok Posted July 2, 2017 Report Posted July 2, 2017 Good onya mate, well done. Most people always think the worst, but usually, its the contrary. I always look for simple fixes first. I had a starter issue Friday night, had to do two weddings on Saturday. Like your problem, push the foot button and absolutely nothing. 1st check - 12volts at start cable when the foot button was pressed. Tick, full 12.8volts. 2nd check - pull starter out to check the brush assembly but when pulling it out I noticed that it was fairly hot to touch, also the battery cable was hot as well. This suggests that there is a direct short. So I pull it apart and check continuity of the main battery cable bolt and the case, yep, my DMM goes off like fire alarm, definitely a short to case. It was the insulator that goes between the bolt and case. No need for bridesmaids to push start Bonnie...:) Quote
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