MBF Posted August 1, 2014 Report Posted August 1, 2014 (edited) One more thing to thing about, and I don't mean to be negative. The bore in the pitman arm is tapered. You won't be able insert your modified drag link's tie rod end from the other side w/o flipping the pitman arm over on the shaft. As far as lining up the steering wheel, I just leave it on loose so I can rotate it on the shaft and drive it in my driveway in the straight ahead position until I find the spline that lines that center spoke up with the 12 o'clock position, and then tighten down the nut. Mike Edited August 1, 2014 by MBFowler Quote
The Oil Soup Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Posted August 1, 2014 (edited) You come from the other side and taper the hole so it has an hour glass shape and the drag link can be mounted from either top or bottom Edited August 1, 2014 by The Oil Soup Quote
HanksB3B Posted August 2, 2014 Report Posted August 2, 2014 As far as lining up the steering wheel, I just leave it on loose so I can rotate it on the shaft and drive it in my driveway in the straight ahead position until I find the spline that lines that center spoke up with the 12 o'clock position, and then tighten down the nut. Mike What I'm talklin bout... Ok... In this instance the true center of steering (TCS) has been changed by a factor of .ooo4 MFp. Consequently the drag link length (DLL) must be adjusted and a new COS steering modulus must be established. The simplified formula for speeds under 300mph is as follows : COS squared + MFp x .0004 DLL/2 = TCS Of course we can just live with it the way it is. Mine works fine. I actually prefer the feeling of flying by the seat of my pants. Jeff and ha ha Jeff... Hank Quote
MBF Posted August 2, 2014 Report Posted August 2, 2014 I don't mean to be trying to overthink this, but if you taper the pitman arm from the other side to an hourglass like shape wouldn't you lose half of the support designed into the tapered fitting? How would it be tightened properly now that you have the large opening on the side of the pitman arm designed for the smaller part of the tapered ball joint. I say this because I had a similar problem with a Ford L800 I restored several years ago. The previous owner had put in a power steering box from an F series. The only available drag link required reversing the flat pitman arm on the output shaft of the box since the F series used a mirror image of the L model's drag link. This was really the only safe fix since it wouldn't pass NY inspection with a cut and welded drag link. Mike Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted August 2, 2014 Report Posted August 2, 2014 I don't mean to be trying to overthink this, but if you taper the pitman arm from the other side to an hourglass like shape wouldn't you lose half of the support designed into the tapered fitting? How would it be tightened properly now that you have the large opening on the side of the pitman arm designed for the smaller part of the tapered ball joint. I say this because I had a similar problem with a Ford L800 I restored several years ago. The previous owner had put in a power steering box from an F series. The only available drag link required reversing the flat pitman arm on the output shaft of the box since the F series used a mirror image of the L model's drag link. This was really the only safe fix since it wouldn't pass NY inspection with a cut and welded drag link. Mike Mike; I was thinking about this condition too. Was wondering if a conical bushing fitted on the back side would be a safer way to fit something like this? Jeff Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted August 2, 2014 Report Posted August 2, 2014 What I'm talklin bout... and ha ha Jeff... Hank Hank; I wasn't trying to be funny. That formula is on page 151 of my copy of the Big Book of applied physics for Shop Rats. Perhaps my use of regionally specific sliding scale units of measurements has you confused? In this case the unit of measurement is expressed by the symbol p. This stands for "pube" but can be expressed many ways. Most shop rats have their own terminology but readily understand this to be a very real but undefinable unit of measurement. One well known version of this type of measurement is the term "a country mile". As you might surmise this unit of measurement is on a sliding scale and can mean one thing to one person and something totally different to another. Now I know that this may sound a bit fuzzy but exhaustive studies have shown that this form of measuring can be very accurate when used correctly. Merles' assessment of the problem of the DLL shows that he has at the very least evaluated the problem using a form of applied shop rat physics. One clue to this thought process can be found in the idea he expressed about reforming the bend in the drag link. I could just about hear Wise Way Tu saying "Ah so". The calculation for that solution can probably be found in a copy of Advanced Applied Physics for Shop Rats. It surely would be under the heading of TBOBTFW. But a real solution could be probably be accomplished just by trial and error. Any clearer now? Jeff Quote
HanksB3B Posted August 3, 2014 Report Posted August 3, 2014 Hank; I wasn't trying to be funny. That formula is on page 151 of my copy of the Big Book of applied physics for Shop Rats. Perhaps my use of regionally specific sliding scale units of measurements has you confused? In this case the unit of measurement is expressed by the symbol p. This stands for "pube" but can be expressed many ways. Most shop rats have their own terminology but readily understand this to be a very real but undefinable unit of measurement. One well known version of this type of measurement is the term "a country mile". As you might surmise this unit of measurement is on a sliding scale and can mean one thing to one person and something totally different to another. Now I know that this may sound a bit fuzzy but exhaustive studies have shown that this form of measuring can be very accurate when used correctly. Merles' assessment of the problem of the DLL shows that he has at the very least evaluated the problem using a form of applied shop rat physics. One clue to this thought process can be found in the idea he expressed about reforming the bend in the drag link. I could just about hear Wise Way Tu saying "Ah so". The calculation for that solution can probably be found in a copy of Advanced Applied Physics for Shop Rats. It surely would be under the heading of TBOBTFW. But a real solution could be probably be accomplished just by trial and error. Any clearer now? Jeff Very interesting...Will research, Thanks Jeff, (need some 1/2" x 4 walnut 4"L to 18" L scraps?) Trouble finding a good source. Hank Hank Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted August 4, 2014 Report Posted August 4, 2014 Very interesting...Will research, Thanks Jeff, (need some 1/2" x 4 walnut 4"L to 18" L scraps?) Trouble finding a good source. Hank Hank Hank; I suppose there are 3 or 4 possible solutions to the drag link mod. If you think about it the reforming of the link that Merle alluded to is probably the most elegant solution. The real issue would be getting that bend just right to compensate for the difference in required length. It certainly would result in the best solution though. They made these links with no adjustment feature for a reason. An adjustable link while easier to fabricate could loosen or go out of adjustment over time.....and I feel certain Dodge was trying to avoid that. I will take a look around for some walnut. 1/2" stuff has to be planed down from something thicker. If I have something I will PM you. Jeff Quote
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