Electrial question

[Justin Slingsby]

Can I run a 12 volt solenoid on my starting system? I think I fried mine the other night as now all I get are click click clicks from it When the key is turned. The starter does not engage.

I am pulling the solenoid and having the battery checked as well. As I drove it the other night certain electrical draws dimmed the headlights quite severely such as the horn and the climate controls. Which leads me to think that I am operating on just the alternator.

I had the starter rebuilt to handle 12 v but I never replaced the solenoid.

[Plymouthy Adams]

The energizing coil in the solenoid does not draw very much current but only transfers a solid high current connection. So you whould be fine putting on a later model..IF you are concerned at all, get one for a diesel engine as these puppies really draw current so the contacts will surely be rated enough to carry the load. The 6 volt set up requires 335 amps when pushing with a 6 volt battery..a 12 volt stater motor on the average is between 180-230 amps depending on engine size and C.R.

Your alternator should be putting out at in the vicinity of 13.8-14.2 volts...with a good voltmeter you should see a higher reading over battery level. To check the current output requires a shunt or clip on amp-probe. (shunt preferred) Even with the one wire alternator when ticked should put out about 6-8mps idling..this curent should stay in this area as you increase the load by turning on lights etc...if it does with lights then maybe the fan motor and all of the sudden you load it wil the brake light and it fall off to zero.. and does not recover just off idle...chances are your voltage regulator is breaking down. Your battery must also be in optimum condition so as not to put a flase load on the regualtor..an internal shorted cell will do this for you.