Tex Smith Hotrod book.

[jonnysteals]

Tex Smith How To Build Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Hot Rods may quite possible be impossible to find a copy of. I have scouered(sp) the depths of the internet to find a copy of this book but have been repeatedly turned down because it is out of print. Does anyone know where I can get a copy of this. I am puting a 318 in a 1950 dodge 4 door and would like to have all recourses available to me. This is my first frame off project and dont wont to get in over my head. If you would like to sell me your copy please email me at jonnysteals@yahoo.com

[Plymouthy Adams]

While that book may be one heck of a source..sourcing the book may prove difficult at minimum. There are many different approaches to do this job..and as such many references on the internet with pictures and such on how to do it. Recommend that you first determine how you want to do your car. Original frame suspension and upgrade engine only. Upgrade stock suspension along with the eingine and tranny. Or you can subframe. Once YOU decide on what characteristics you wish your car to have..then search for details on that approach. If you are doing this work yourself you must have the room to tear down and spreadout your componets, necessary tools for handling the engine and tranny plus metal cutting and welding equipment to fabricate mounts, brackets etc to complete your job. BUT if you are going to farm this out, your choice of builder already has the tools, space and skills to do the job and as such his approach will have to agree with what you picture as end results. These are also point of no return to consider with mods...if this don't work can I go back to stock etc. Searching the internet will definitely give you some insight here....Fatman, Plydo and even some of our forum members fabricate various pieces parts for engine/tranny, suspension and brakes to help get you where you are going.

[MiltYergens]

http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?sts=t&an=tex+smith+leroi&y=8&x=68

or

search Leroi Tex Smith @ http://www.alibris.com

Milt

[Norm's Coupe]

Someone was looking for that book in the last couple of months. Think the only one found was at Amazon. Think the seller wanted between $100 and $125 for it. So, good luck on your search.

[jonnysteals]

abebooks does not have them on stock. They lsit them on the website that they are in stock but a few hour later they cancel your order. Amazon no longer has any books available. My plans for the coronet are rather simple.

From the informations I gathered I plan to buy the ply-do mouting brackets for the 318 I am picking up this weekend. I plan on building my own transmission crossmember because I am cheap. I am going to be installing the EZ Wiring harness in which a fellow member is installing; I plan on learning from his experience to help me along in the process. I see no need to subframe the car because it has independent suspension already. I plan to use fatman lowering arms alsong with rusty hope disk brake kit. I just finished the interior with black and red leather. I am looking for a 71-74 b body rear because it should bolt right in with only minor modification. The front end will also be rebuilt.

Now I have one question the exhast manifold from a dart will allow the use of the original steering column or am I going to have to steal Tim Allen ideal and use a plymoth Acclaim steering column. What benefit does doing to the chevy cavaliar rack and pinion give you. That is the only area in which I am a little confused on is the steering column situation. Thanks for any insight you guys may give me. Jon

[Plymouthy Adams]

One of the first benefits is not needing the special high dollar hard to obtain A body drivers manifold that humps up and curves.

The Acclaim column I have put in 4 vehicles...just too easy...Cavalier rack allows easy position behind the wheels and connects with Borgenson/Flaming River joints that also might I add works with the Acclaim column. Basically everything you have described is what has been done to my 41 Dodge...with lots of other small details added in the mix. Of course the Mopar big block is in mine, center dump on the drivers side, rear sump oil pan from the truck, 6 quart capacity with pan mounted dipstick. I can say this..my front suspension with the lowering spindles have netted at bests 4 inches ground clearance without altered springs. Do the shock relocation. Remeber the aftermarket columns are base GM copies..Camaro are used extensively in rodding but don't overlook the Dakota truck in this area..same length as the Camaro..better tilt and electrical componets also..when it comes to your tranny hook up..get the right parts from the yard and it is a bolt in..and the cables just snap in place...

[jonnysteals]

I plan to purchase the aclaim steering column for the junkyard. Tim were you able to find the steerign column wiring adapter to connect to the wiring harness or did you just wire each wire individually. Also you stated that I dont need the A body driver-side exhasut manifold. Woudl the standard 318 manifolds work or could I use some block hugger type headers. Tim where did you get the shock relocation brackets at or did you design them yourself. If you could please take a couple pics of your set up it would be very benefietal and greatly appreciated. Thanks for everything so far Jon:D

[Plymouthy Adams]

Shock kit was part of brake setup at the time...

Acclaim column, cut the pig tail and take the entire unit with harness..really not that many wires..I have every aspect of that coumn wired into my 41 Dodge, including airbag, cruise control and intermittant wipers down to the timed halo light and key in alarm. Built/spliced my own harness..remember a wiring harness is just a bunch of independent circuits neatly bundled together and breaking out of the loom in general proximity to the accessory you are connecting. Use a truck center dump manifold...allows for room for the steering, starter and my H-pipe will slip right out from under the car in one piece..one easy drop and twist, ball sockets on the ends..granted..building your own harness from donor cars is a bit time consuming but you still get to use a factory schematic, wiring colors, and you know the guage is engineered to work..all you are doing is tailoring it to your car...no need to go to a wire gauge chart..but you can if you want..I did source it on occasion.

IMHO, headers are for race track only..would not run one on the street for love nor money..nor would I run an aftermarket aluminum intake on a Mopar for the street..get a stock dual plane cast iron...you loose just too much performance and idling characteristic not to mention low rpm torque and horsepower. Stick with the Mopar viscus fan of assymetrical design for added horsepower...water pump, fans and alternators under load rate right up thee with the best of horse thieves.

Your choice of the 318 allow you to use the 5 speed manual if you wish from the Dakota line up, or the a500 or a518 OD autos or any other base line tranny of RWD configuaration..please note that all RWD trannies either auto or maunal had the same length to the cross menber mount..BUT this is not true with the OD units..the mount is in different location here...be advised of this and make sure you select the tranny you want in the beginning.

[jonnysteals]

Tim you knowledge on these cars is dumbfounding. I want to transform my coronet into a nice cruiser that is reasonable fast. With that in mind I chose the 727 auto or the 904 because they are both equaly reliable and very simple to put in. The 727 is stronger but the amount of horsepower I put out will not be extravagant by any means. I plan to use the turn signals fron the acclaim steering column and the horn. The airbag will be to much of a hassle to install correctly. Thanks Tim you making me very excited to pull the old motor out after work today. Tim I may eb bugging you with other questions later on, if you dont mind. If you do please feel free to tell me to bug off; I understand because you seem like a very busy man. Thanks again Jon

[Plymouthy Adams]

The airbag is a self contained unit with self diagnostics and auto arming after static check at each ignition switch cycle. Wiring it is not in the lest bit hard..the only vague area is the display lamp power source. On a further note, when removing your steering coulmn..wire it in a fixed postion with the removed postion of the front wheel pointing straight ahead. Please bear in mind that the clock spring can only take x-revoulution in any direction..damage to the unit will result...if....you think at any time the unit may have been turned off center..the clock spring can be removed...and repositioned..the procedure is in the book..at no time..energize the airbag while fcing the wheel until all tests are executed and several turns lock to lock has been performed. The basic column is also the same in the earlier pre airbag cars of front wheel design and you may feel more confortable with one of these. I put one from a 86 Chrysler FWD into a 50 Chebbie pickup..slick as a ribbon..matched the interior and removed the crystal pentastar and smoothed it and epoxied a ugh.. I hate to say, bowtie there...fit the decor..man loved the new column and all the benfits of modern control at the fingertip. Wondered how he went that long without it...he said...

[jonnysteals]

Hey Tim by any chance with exhaust manifold of a 1976 ram work. I am keeping the original seering column because the steering wheel is just to darn cool. It also already has turn signals installed into the column. I am going with a B&M ratching floo shifter for my 904 because I just installed a manual valve body because I always wanted a car like this. The engine I am rebuilding is out of a 1976 dodge ram in which I am rebuiling to get rid of all the smog equipment(mainly the intake carb set-up). Do you forsee any problems with the motor/manifolds. Any other parts do you think I should egt from the car. I have access to the car until next weekend when it is getting sent to the crusher. Thanks again Tim.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Jonny...I have gone with steering column changes on all three my cars...so I really don't know just what manifold will do the best. I can say this though...as for steering, two are subframed and one is the Cavalier R&P. The Cavalier I used a truck center dump manifold on drivers side..perfect clearance and even be more if I used the later model short starter. Stock is on the right..this is a big block so it is about 3 inches wider and only 1 inch longer footprint compared to the LA engine.

The other is a V6 and manifolds are stock...3.9 Magnum..again however I am using a Chrysler FWD based column. This engine is about 7 inches rear of factory placement on the Dakota frame..plenty of room at the unmodified firewall... On the 52 Club Coupe the manifold here has to be the late model standard 360 manifold of the '79 variety rear dumper with a slight bend to give you a straight dump when mounted to the wedge of the head..I experimented with a factory truck cneter dump but the modified engine mount is more an isse than anything else. On another note, the stock columns are easily cut to just beyond the firewall, bushing made and inserted with a nice clamp/brace for lower support..this can be on either side of your firewall...welding up a joint for the Flaming River/Borgeson joint. I have seen these..I am entertaining the thought of doing the 48 Plymouth just this way as I want to keep the inside dash looking factory as best I can...beside they have a gerogous steering wheel and center.

[builtfercomfort]

Tim, it sounds like you have done almost exactly what I want to do to my (newly acquired) 39 Chrysler Windsor (my C-22 is a bit like the D-24 of later years). I like your ideas and builds, and want to try something like it.

Do you have any in-progress pictures of your build(s)? I would like a V8, AC, PS, PB when I am done, would like to see how you fit yours in, what sort of issues you had, etc. I think my engine bay is narrower at the front - I have a chance to buy a 1987 Lincoln 302 + AOD (for $300) but I'm not sure the accessories will fit (my engine bay narrows at the front) - I'd like to see pictures of your V6 setup to see how it goes in.

Also interested in your Cavalier rack install - did you buy the Fatman kit or roll your own? I'm thinking of getting OldDaddy's front brakes on the stock suspension, seems to be a simpler way to go.

Thanks,

-- Tom

[Plymouthy Adams]

Fatman kit for the front steering, shocks reloation and brakes was from Plydo..(former owner got these). The engine is 68 vintage Dodge 383 with 727 tranny coupled to a 70 'Cuda 8 3/4 rear gear. The brackets for the Cavalier once you see how it goes in is a piece of cake to duplicate...secret is in where to mount to prevent bumpsteer and of course the adapter for the tie rods and taper bushings. I may change my steering rods yet to LH platform as the TRW rack is shared by both GM and Chrysler..Chrysler uses front steer so no applicable..again the unit is non specific per say as it ia TRW design. More on that later...I have a parts LH car now..I think this setup is overall better than even a subframe and I have both..reason for that comment is the fact there is no re-engineering bumper brackets and doghouse mounts..doghouse is a piece of cake..bumper brackets to stay stock..bit more involved. I also think there is room for improvement in the Fatman kit...just not confortable with the adapters...reason I will experiment with the LH rod..plus I think the thread are the same and you can get both size tie rod tapers so eliminate the taper bushing also. This is yet to be experimented with.

Charlie has your brake kit, recommend his for service, price and such. As for the Ford 302, it and the Mopar short block are almost identical for length, width and height..the AOD from that year is the better for retrofit. If you want automatic

I do not have an album set up for any of my cars in what you call sequence of work being done...but I do have lots and lots of pictures. If you want Mopar AOD you be stuck with 88 up truck. Recommend the 91-93 myself due to a couple improvements and before total electronic control.

I don't have a book going back on the 37 so cannot answer the forward frame width question..I am thinking it would not be a problem..the radiator shell is of the same size I think and if so not a problem..send me the width of your shell..or if you have a 40's to compare with do so..more than not you will be altering the inner fenders. My 41 left inner I removed the battery box for the PS pump clearance and the remaining area will hold two quarts of oil and a large brake fluid bottle meatly in place. The right I just split a bout 5 inches wide by 5 high and rolled it outward and welded sides to this for full alternator adjustment. with the 383 plenty of room yet everywhere else.

[builtfercomfort]

Thanks Tim -

Not sure what you mean by "LH" as in "I may change my steering rods yet to LH platform". (Left Hand? Leona Helmsley? :-) It's obviously a different make but which one?

I found a '99 Explorer 8.8 rear end that is the right width, my choice of 3.73 or 4.10 ratio, so I'll have rear disc brakes. Not sure if I'll try to put the master cylinder in the engine compartment or under the floor. I'm engine agnostic but it seems like $300 for engine and AOD is cheap, a 90s Mopar smallblock and AOD seems to cost much more. Lots of Ford AODs going into early Mustangs so there are some retrofit kits for them. But if anyone has a small block + AOD for sale, let me know.

I'm new to most of this, I'm in way over my head but that's part of the fun. Thanks for the advice. I'll ask more later :-)

[Plymouthy Adams]

LH platform car is the Concorde, Intrepid and the Eagle Vision

[Allan Faust]

Tex Smith How To Build Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Hot Rods may quite possible be impossible to find a copy of. I have scouered(sp) the depths of the internet to find a copy of this book but have been repeatedly turned down because it is out of print. Does anyone know where I can get a copy of this. I am puting a 318 in a 1950 dodge 4 door and would like to have all recourses available to me. This is my first frame off project and dont wont to get in over my head. If you would like to sell me your copy please email me at jonnysteals@yahoo.com

Sent you an email.... hopefully its still available....

Allan

[james curl]

I got my copy from "Ray's Motornut Superstore" Cheyenne, Wy. Toll Free 877-4RAYSBOoks, cell 307-630-5502. They make about 45 big shows and swap meets a year so on the road most of the time. If any body has a copy are can get one it would be Ray. He has everything that "Tex" still publishes. So give his cell phone a call, he may be in L.A.