Quarter Window Install

[jimfenick]

Hi Guys,

   I am back on working on the 1953 since the temp has cooled down here in Nevada.

 

  Does anyone have any experience installing the rear quarter windows? I am going to give it a shot this weekend but thought I may ask for guidance before I put them in.

 

Thanks,

   Jim

[Desotodav]

Here's a link for you to look at Jim... http://p15-d24.com/topic/29405-front-and-rear-window-installation/?hl=+rear%20+corner%20+window .

We chatted about them a while back.Best to use the search function to the top right of your screen to find other discussions. Good luck with those windows as they are not fun to get in.

[GORDON WRIGHT]

Hi Jim, you will need plenty of detergent as lube and lots of patience. I did my own because nobody would tackle the job. I found having the new rubber fitted to the glass for days beforehand pays dividends, even use masking tape to pull rubber tight onto glass. Thus the rubber is starting to form to the shape.From inside the cab work the edge closest to the door as far as you can into position, I did start with heavy string in the rubber but found more success just persuading the rubber over the bodywork with something plastic. Lots of playing with the rubber, much hitting with hand or rubber mallet(gently) , after some hours you will look at the rubber and it has gone into place. I am not offering my services.

Gordon W

[gramps1951]

I was an auto glass installer for 24 years some things to think about this should be a very easy install but sometimes they are a real pain in the but is the gasket made right is it real stiff is it real cold  how was it packed that can be a real big deal. not all glass is the same size or shape even if it is the same part number or even made by the same company. the window opening of your truck do you think they are all the same size they are not I have roped in some windows that were so loose they rattled and felt like they could fall out and others that were so tight that a hard bump in the road might stress crack them.fitting the glass to the truck before hand and knowing what to look for makes all the difference some times I will use a wet belt sander to the edge of the glass if needed but if the glass is very old fragile the pinch weld might need some grinding. warming the rubber with a heat gun might help. in all my 24 years I have never used a rubber mallet use your whole hand palm and fingers hitting at the same time to disperse the inpact to the largest earea less chance that way of brakeage . sorry about the bad spelling .   neil

[Jeff Balazs]

Jim;

I installed mine this summer and after damaging one piece of rubber I found a method that works pretty well.  It is a two man job and you will need some cord, masking tape, non drying glazing compound and soapy water. Prepping the glass and rubber is the critical part. Actual install time is 5 to 10 minutes each if you have done this right. Oh yes it is sort of a messy job so be prepared for clean up.

 

1) Allow the rubber to warm in the sun.

 

2) Fit the warmed rubber to the glass. It should be a snug fit so you will need a helper and you will need to use plenty of masking tape to help hold it in place.

 

3) Place it in the sun for a few hours to allow the rubber to reform to the glass. This can take a while but given enough time you will be able to see it start to conform with the bends.

 

4) Once it has had a chance to conform to the shape of the glass carefully remove some of the masking tape to allow the insertion of a pulling cord. Put it into place a few inches at a time and replace the tape as you go. I used cord that was around 3/16" in diameter. Too small will damage the rubber and too large just won't work.

The glass must be put into place from the inside by a levering action from the center of the cab towards the portion closest to the door. This means that your cord needs to be placed so the pulling ends are at the vertical edge of the rubber closest to the door.

 

5) Once the cord is in place make sure you have enough masking tape on to keep the rubber from rolling off the edge of the glass as you lever it into place. You can actually put enough tape on it so the only exposed rubber is a small area where the pulling ends of the cord are exposed. Don't worry that there is too much tape as it will actually protect the rubber during the install and is easy to remove once the glass is in place.

 

6) Apply glazing compound around the opening and soap up the masking taped glass. Have plenty of rags handy to wipe you hands.

 

7) One man in the cab and one man outside to help the rubber over the flange and pull the cord.

In order for this to work you need to get the edge nearest to the door started first. The man in the cab needs to work this end into place and then keep pressure applied towards the door and back at the same time. The man on the outside needs to help the process by pulling the cord slowly when directed and making certain the rubber is moving into place. The hardest part is getting past the two compound bends. The man inside must keep applying force toward the back of the cab and towards the door at the same time. The window kind of levers into place and you can do this without the use of a mallet.

 

My first attempt was an hour and it failed because I didn't realize that I needed the masking tape. The next one took about 15 minutes. And the last time it was more like 7 or 8 minutes. Crying and cursing was much reduced as we got our technique perfected.  It is not an easy job......but It sure felt good to be able to do it myself.

 

Jeff

[jimfenick]

Guys,

  Thanks for all of the suggestions, It helped me formulate a plan.  This proved to be easy Less than 5 minutes. Here is what I did.

 

 I did the drivers side first.

 

1) Put the gaskets on the window the night before.

 

2) Laced in a thin 1/4 inch piece of nylon cord into the channel, end of the cord on the bottom of the window.

 

3) Poured a lot of dish soap in the channel and hit it with some water.

 

4) Put the glass in place from the inside, pulling it tight to the outer corner first.

 

5) with my left hand holding pressure from the inside (pulling out towards me on the outside) I started pulling the cord from the bottom channel, evenly.

 

6) Once I got the bottom I worked the side edge closest to me, then the other side, meeting the last corner, Top right for the finish.

 

  A few notes. I really do not like the gaskets from Clesters, you can see the mold marks in the outer frame and they do not look as good as original, but since I had them in the box for 6 months, today was the day to get them done. 

 

Thank you all for the great suggestions. It did really help give me an idea of how to get it done.