Painting cars with roller

[grey beard]

I am presently painting the grille sheet metal on my B1B, so that I can install the stainless truim before I put the nose back on - almost impossible to install grille moldings with the radiator in place.

Have followed all the threads for this paint method from the original MoParts, and am using the Brightside polyurethane, which does require primer. Anorther reason for using primer in addition to adhesion is that it helps fill body work prep scratches, etc.

A friend who is an inorganic chemist at a paint mfr. gave to me a small bottle of a silicone additive to use with roller painting. He said it will change the surface tension of the material so that just one drop of the stuff will keep bubbles from forming - one of the chief problems with roller painting. No bubbles to date. If it works as well as it looks, I'll post the results and the chemical name for the additive.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Wow...silicone added to paint...I know when I spray I use a silicone eliminator so as not to fisheye/leison on me. Further I use buffing compunds that are silicone free to eliminate possible contamination of a surface due to silicone fallout...if this is something that is say in the primary stages of development, I am very curious of this paint formula..if you have addition info..please PM me on this..

Thanks

[Allan Faust]

then why do they sell primer? why do they recommend it ? Sorry but I would never go to the trouble to prep steel without priming...just not worth the shortcut...Then again I never apply primer without etching with acid either..

I agree with Tim on that one randroid..... Even Tremclad and Rustoleum sells a primer.... which I'd use first... MHO

Allan

[Allan Faust]

Wow...silicone added to paint...I know when I spray I use a silicone eliminator so as not to fisheye/leison on me. Further I use buffing compunds that are silicone free to eliminate possible contamination of a surface due to silicone fallout...if this is something that is say in the primary stages of development, I am very curious of this paint formula..if you have addition info..please PM me on this..

Thanks

Don't PM him.... put it up for all of us to see.... I'm interested too.... Tim, don't keep all the good stuff to yerself......

Allan

[Plymouthy Adams]

Allan..I did that just in case this is in the development stage...not looking for trade secrets..just some more information..silicone and paint has never been friends...

I am thinking the product may be in fact be "silicone/fisheye eliminator" that was given to him..this will allow the paint to lay flat just in case there is a bit of silicone contamination. And yes ..just a few drops are all that is necessary even when spray painting very thin coats...I have seen fisheyes and leisons due to contanimated surface. Even wiping with a prep wash (naptha, can you say lighter fluid) twice and tacking off....fallout is always a problem. I have found that the double wipe of naptha goes a long way in cleaning the surface just moments prior to your first tack coat.

[randroid]

Gents,

After carefully weighing the testimonies presented to me I've decided to go with a primer before rolling the paint. Initial interest in using Rustoleum was sparked in part due to not needing to apply primer, but I have reversed my position for two reasons:

1. It can't hurt. Primer costs about the same as the paint and although I don't have any rust on the body (or, at the most, very little) I figure that if I don't use primer I'll spend the rest of my life waiting for the paint to blister.

2. I can use it to my advantage. It will take more than one gallon of paint for the job but less than two gallons, so I might be able to sand the primer as I would the first coat of paint, thereby saving an extra step and maybe not needing that second gallon of paint after all.

I'll see how it goes after I start the project, but for now I'm still scraping off the five or six coats, depending upon where I'm scraping, of the last sixty years of "improvements" made to the old whore. (Officially the name of my 48 P-15 is "Pigiron", but occasionally I revert to a back-up moniker. When scraping the paint, it is "The Old Whore". I hope this doesn't offend any old whores reading this.)

Thanks for your help and discussions; now, to work!

-Randy

[Plymouthy Adams]

Randoid...I do think you will be more happy with working the primer in prepping the surface for the topcoat..second I think you initial amount of sanding will be less overall...I do recommend that the panels if primed do fully cure...the primer hs some excellent sanding properties but if you think it will be sandable in three days..you gonna get some rather nasty sand scrathes instead of smooth surface as the paint will try to "ball"

[randroid]

Thanks, Tim, I'll keep that in mind.

-Randy

[grey beard]

Wellllll, if you'all really want the scoop on this stuff, here goes.

Product is called Raybo 3 AntiSilk

Manufactured by:

Raybo Chemical Company

PO Box 2155

Huntington, wv 25721

Phone 307-525-5171

There are eight pages of MSDS sheets accompanying the container. Ingredients include Xylene, Solvent Naptha, Benzene, Ehyl Benzene, Toluene. I have about half a pint of this stuff, and it totally eliminates the bubble problem for me when I roll Brightside paint onto sheetmetal.

Amybody really interested, send me a small eye-dropper-type bottle with a return address container and I'll give you a little - only takes one drop to a roller pan full. Apparantly what the stuff does is change the surface tension of the paint. Are any of you guys out there chemists? Can you shed more light on this subject?

Thanks