P15 Windshield Replacement

[woodrow]

good advise.  anybody want to advise on how to put together the seal .  what to use for glue? thx. 

[Tom Skinner]

Woodrow,

The Service Manuals are really quite complete with instructions, also when you purchase your rubber ask what sealer or cleaner to use. They will sell you the proper stuff.

When I bought my Rubber Seal for my back window (before I bought my front rubber for my windshield) at Steele Rubber the Counter person never mentioned the Sealer of Cleaner.

I had to go back (I live about a 40 minute ride from there) and purchase the additional supplies $25 More. It would sure be nice if Sales Persons would think to ask customers if they had the other things to use to do the job instead of just existing at a Sales Counter. I remember back in the day if you went into a shop to buy a new leather belt, and went to pay with a worn looking wallet the Salesmen (Yes I am not PC) would ask you if you would also like to look at some new wallets. Now that was Salesmanship at its best. There are just warm bodies at most store counters today. I used Clear 3M Sealer and 3M Cleaner. Good Luck you won't break the Glass unless your really trying to. 

Tom

[Bobby]

DELETED COMMENTARY ON MY EXPERIENCE WITH BOB'S CLASSIC AUTO GLASS

Edited April 18, 2019 by Bobby
NOT TRUE

[DrDoctor]

   On projects such as this, we didn’t use any type of adhesive. For lubricant, we just used liquid dish soap, and plenty of it. on the occasions where we had to but 2 ends together, we used 3M black weather-strip adhesive.

[woodrow]

Well I just finished installing both glasses in the front.  not too bad but there are a few little tricks that I learned along the way. I found it easier to install both windows separately and cut the seal in 2 pieces.  even with a helper trying to put the seal and bar on as 1 piece too clumsy.  we had no control over all of the elements at play

  but it's done now and not too bad looking back 

now to wrestle all of the trim into place!

[DrDoctor]

Woodrow,

   Well Done!!! Doing each side independently is the only way to do this successfully, as you’ve already discovered – keeping everything in relationship with one another while attempting to install both sides simultaneously is just impossible. Use the 3M black weather-strip adhesive at the joints, and the messy part’s done. The stainless trim’s going to be a breeze for you at this point. Again, great job, and congratulations!!! Now, go smoke that cigar, and enjoy your libation, as you pat yourself on the back.

[woodrow]

1 hour ago, DrDoctor said:

Woodrow,

 

   Well Done!!! Doing each side independently is the only way to do this successfully, as you’ve already discovered – keeping everything in relationship with one another while attempting to install both sides simultaneously is just impossible. Use the 3M black weather-strip adhesive at the joints, and the messy part’s done. The stainless trim’s going to be a breeze for you at this point. Again, great job, and congratulations!!! Now, go smoke that cigar, and enjoy your libation, as you pat yourself on the back.

 

Victory dance Already done! lol

[Tom Skinner]

Congratulations!

Now test it with a hose. No leaks and then your'e done. The Clear 3M Sealer can be used by pulling the rubber back gently with a plastic scraper -

where if you suspect any leaks insert some Clear Sealer.

I also thought I was done. and the hose of water proved me wrong. Once I used the Clear 3 M Sealer (Sparingly) I cleaned up the excess later with the 3M Cleaner.

Then I was done. I hope you do not have any leaks. If so try my method above. My front and back windows had leaks in the lower corners - slow ones but non - the less.

No more leaks after using the sealer. 

[woodrow]

Tom after installing my interior garnish and outside trim I thought about that. while using 3M weatherstrip sealant I realized that there are alot of waterways possible.  using a full on hose is not possible left right now because 

1 its absolutely freezing outside with lots is snow whereas it should be getting mild by now

2 garage is not set up for all of the water run off

3 I'm too freaked out by the thoughts of all that water finding said leaks and getting behind the dash lol

but I figure I'll do the clear sealant wherever I seem necessary and wait for the warm temps to test. 

Next on the lost is to source out some quarter window rubbers.  my driver door and rear right passenger is in deplorable shape and not car show material.  At this point , with the purchase of the car itself, tow job, new oils and coolant, the front windshield saga and many more purchases besides I am forced to watch the spending for a little bit.  I've seen those rubber seals for around $150 a set which translates into alot more money by the time I get it up here in Canada.  I doubt if I could ever salvage a good used set even if there was a salvage yard around with a donor car.  at this point tho i am going to place an ad in the classifieds on the off chance that somebody might have a second set that they want to sell. Anyhow, the Plymouth is getting closer to being ready for car show season.

[DrDoctor]

 

Woodrow,

   Before you use the clear sealant, consider this – if it’s going to be visible, you may be better off using the black sealant, since the rubber’s black. Get yourself a plastic interior tucking tool (also used for glass work . . .), and use that to lift the rubber from the car, or the glass, and to spread and/or remove excess sealant. If you’re working on the body-side of the rubber, consider taping the body along the edge of the rubber to keep the sealant off of the paint. Afterwards – another “happy dance”.

   Kindest regards . . .

[Tom Skinner]

Woodrow,

Do what you wish. The Clear Sealant cleans up easier than the black sealant with the 3M Cleaner. I know because I have done it both ways on many cars.

Mr Doctor would have you breaking your glass out and needing 3 helpers along the way. I used 2 - 2" X 4" 's jutting off my front seat to do my front windshield (remember Petie and Henry)?

by myself. Didn't break anything and found and repaired the small leaks afterward with 3M Clear Sealer. 

 

Good Luck.

Tom

Edited March 9, 2019 by Tom Skinner
more info

[Tom Skinner]

Deleted

Edited March 9, 2019 by Tom Skinner

[DrDoctor]

Hey, Woodrow.

   Oh, I forgot to mention what to do about excess the sealant on the glass side – let it dry, take a new sharp razor blade (don’t use an old one – we don’t want any scratches from a chewed blade . . .) and run it perpendicular to the glass next to the rubber, and carefully cut it. Then take the razor blade, and use it as a scraper to lift some of the excess sealant, and just peel it off like cellophane. The tape on the body side will yield the same effect – after you’ve also run it perpendicular to the glass next to the rubber, and carefully cut it. Again – another “happy dance” . . .

Edited March 10, 2019 by DrDoctor

[Tom Skinner]

Delete

Edited March 11, 2019 by Tom Skinner

[Bobby]

I am considering this but just can't bring myself to cut a brand new Steele Gasket. I have to believe these were design and have been used for decades for a reason. Can anyone expound on the reasoning for cutting the seal?

[woodrow]

9 hours ago, Bobby said:

I am considering this but just can't bring myself to cut a brand new Steele Gasket. I have to believe these were design and have been used for decades for a reason. Can anyone expound on the reasoning for cutting the seal?

I suspect  the steel seal might be easier to install in one piece rather than cut it for the simple fact that , with the glass installed before installation into the car, it would be effectively a one piece unit thus being more manageable.  I purchased the seal from a roll of the stuff which gave me loose ends as well as a separate  center  bar.  all of this made the whole thing very clumsy and unmanageable.  If I had purchased the steel unit I definitely would have attempted a 1 piece install without cutting anything.  a benefit to the one piece as well is that the corners are pre formed and fit the contours of the windshield frame.  the unit. that I I stalled is bulging at the corners causing the rubber to lift away from the pinch weld. 

[Bobby]

Thanks woodrow