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Posted

When I change my condenser give me a terrible dorsumache.I am 57 years old.Now I put a condenser with its support(did a new) attached in the left/front screw of the coil support.The wire of condenser is attached in negative plug of the coil.My pilothouse now is very good to start.:P

Posted (edited)

Sounds Serious. Take two asprins and call me in the morning.

doc-brown.jpg

Hank :)

P.S. For those of us who want to know, what is Dorsumache?

Edited by HanksB3B
Posted

Ok,dorsum ache.The important of all is who already changed a condenser in your PH?Who already put another condenser in your coil?What thoughts about that?

Posted

Sim Bradley, já estou bem hoje.Ontem a noite não pude dormir de dor nas costas.É que estou querendo dar uma dica para vocês deste segundo condensador na bobina.:P

Posted
Sim Bradley, já estou bem hoje.Ontem a noite não pude dormir de dor nas costas.É que estou querendo dar uma dica para vocês deste segundo condensador na bobina.:P

"Bradley Yes, I'm fine today. Last night I could not sleep for back pain. It's what I want to give a hint to you this second condenser coil."

48D and Google Translate.....:cool:

Posted
"Bradley Yes, I'm fine today. Last night I could not sleep for back pain. It's what I want to give a hint to you this second condenser coil."

48D and Google Translate.....:cool:

And then,48D what do you think about this second condenser in the coil?

Posted

It does not matter if the condenser is on the coil or in the distributor. Some English motorcycles came with the condenser on the coil, they did not have room inside the engine. Connect to the wire that goes to the points.

It should be the same value as the stock one. .25 to .28 UF (microfarads).

Posted
It does not matter if the condenser is on the coil or in the distributor. Some English motorcycles came with the condenser on the coil' date=' they did not have room inside the engine. Connect to the wire that goes to the points.

It should be the same value as the stock one. [b'].25 to .28 [/b]UF (microfarads).

Rusty I was looking for in manuals and saw:

WWII GMC 1944----- .20 to .25 MFD

WWII Jeep 1942----- .18 to .26 MFD

Posted

They make little cheap testers (at least they used too !) that work quite good. A rough and ready way to test them is to connect the pig tail to the positive terminal of a 12 volt battery and the body to the negative terminal. This charges them up. Now ground the pig tail to the body and, if it is good, you should see a nice fat spark. In some cases the condenser will have two leads. One goes to ground and one to the points hot wire. Connect them by the color coding of the wires. If both wires have the same color, they can be connected either way. Same way to test. One wire to positive and one wire to negative to charge and then touch them together. You should get a nice spark if they are good. The condenser keeps the points from arcing when they open. The condenser can be anywhere in the line (wire) going to the points. Sometimes this is quite a ways away from the points. Like under the gas tank. Condenser Capacity The capacity of a condenser is measured in microfarads (0.2 microfarads being the average capacity) and that capacity is matched to the points. If there is a big build up of material on one of the points it means the capacity of that condenser is too big or too small for that set of points. If the negative point (grounded or stationary point) loses material, with the build-up on the positive ( Moveable ) point. The condenser capacity is too low. If the build up is on the grounded point ( Stationary ) the capacity is too high.

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