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Posted

Hi all, okay slowly piecing the 251 55 Fargo engine back together, and I have some gasket questions.

Fuel Pump to block gasket, what sealant is best used with this gasket, I genrally have all types, but what is best?

Waterpump and T/stat housing, I intend to run engine, and drain and flush cooling systema few times using water and electrosol, can I not use a sealant on the gaskts, as I want to remove the water pump and t/stat, after flushing and running engine a few times, or will it leak like a sieve?

What type of grease is used in the waterpump grease zerk?

I still have to finish the fuel line plumbing, and hook up a temporary oil gauge and emp gauge, I have both type aftermarket I can use for this purpose.

Once I can establish this engine is a good runner, then it can be all purdyed up cleaned and painted....

Things to be completed before I can start engine, starter brushes, install alternator, install carb kit, and thats about it, a few piddly things...

PS I have horsed around with this little flattie for 3 days now....

Posted

Hi Fred

I often use the Right Stuff (from Canadian Tire and others) on one or both sides of a cardboard gasket. This is kind of a gasket sealant/adhesive/gap filler that sticks and seals really well.

If the particular gasket is sealing a component that is removed from time to time, I use the Right Stuff on only one face (Side A) and something else on the other (Side B) — sometimes traditional gasket shellac, sometimes a heavy red water-resistant grease, sometimes both. The gasket will always part on Side B and stay well stuck and sealed on the other face. If you don't use red grease as a parting agent on one surface of Side B (ie, use only gasket shellac) the shellac may stick well enough that the cardboard gasket separates upon disassembly. Should that happen, it can be put back together again with gasket shellac on the split surfaces.

This is what I would do on your t-stat and water pump gaskets if it were me. I use this technique on the transmission/oil filter cover on Model T Fords, where there is a tremendous quantity of hot oil being thrown at the cover whenever the engine is running. No leaks.

Posted
Hi Fred

I often use the Right Stuff (from Canadian Tire and others) on one or both sides of a cardboard gasket. This is kind of a gasket sealant/adhesive/gap filler that sticks and seals really well.

If the particular gasket is sealing a component that is removed from time to time, I use the Right Stuff on only one face (Side A) and something else on the other (Side B) — sometimes traditional gasket shellac, sometimes a heavy red water-resistant grease, sometimes both. The gasket will always part on Side B and stay well stuck and sealed on the other face. If you don't use red grease as a parting agent on one surface of Side B (ie, use only gasket shellac) the shellac may stick well enough that the cardboard gasket separates upon disassembly. Should that happen, it can be put back together again with gasket shellac on the split surfaces.

This is what I would do on your t-stat and water pump gaskets if it were me. I use this technique on the transmission/oil filter cover on Model T Fords, where there is a tremendous quantity of hot oil being thrown at the cover whenever the engine is running. No leaks.

Thanx Chris will try this, I really cleaned up the mating surfaces, they look like new almost....

Posted

Engine looks like hell, have to pull oil canister, and oil filler pipe/filter, and clean in solvent, this is where I am at right now, using mostly used odds and ends.

Like I have said, once I establish this is a good running engine, then I will clean it, remove front clip, and clean the firewall and front suspesnsio to, then all wil be painted and detailed, and the new parts can be added

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Posted

Use nothing but grease on both sides of the gaskets. They will seal and can be removed without damage.

Use boat trailer wheel grease for the water pump fitting. One squirt only as any more may push the seal out.

Posted
Use nothing but grease on both sides of the gaskets. They will seal and can be removed without damage.

Use boat trailer wheel grease for the water pump fitting. One squirt only as any more may push the seal out.

Thanx Don....

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