austinsailor Posted April 18, 2011 Report Posted April 18, 2011 I mentioned a couple days ago that there was a crack in my block we found after it was done. It wasn't real clear until it was decked. I first looked into getting it welded, but that is expensive and has a good chance of cracking again. I took it by a friend who's built race motors for 25 years and he suggested tapping the bottom of the hole and using a stud instead of a bolt. In the pictures you'll see the crack running around the corner about at the bottom of where the bold ended. We ended up drilling it a little deeper and tapping it to the bottom of the hole. It now goes as deep as the stud goes where I'm holding it. Plenty far into good metal and should not be a problem. I'll "v" the crack a bit and use some JB Weld to insure no water leaks. Quote
greg g Posted April 18, 2011 Report Posted April 18, 2011 I would think that it shouldn't be a problem. I would however drill a small hole at the end of the crack. This will spread the stress into the surounding casting and prevent the crack from lenghtening. a 5/32 or 11/64 should do the trick about 3/16 deep right at the outside end of the crack. Quote
austinsailor Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Posted April 18, 2011 What may not be obvious is the horizantal line about half way down the stud is a crack going all around the corner. the entire corner was lifting on addition to the crack going out from the hole. Quote
greg g Posted April 18, 2011 Report Posted April 18, 2011 As long as the stud is in new meat I would think its OK, as it will relieve the stress on the cracked area. Quote
PatS.... Posted April 18, 2011 Report Posted April 18, 2011 These guys had their crack stitched http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/dodge_rebuild/part6_cylinderhead.htm Quote
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