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Rear Motor Mounts R&R Tomorrow


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Posted

Hey all, anyone that has replaced rear motor mounts, with engine and drivetrain in car, with floor in place.

What is the procedure to r&r the rear motor mounts.

I plan it this way,

-loosen front mount, place floor jack under trans

-loosen rear motor mount bolts, remove bolts

-lift trans/engine slightly and wiggle out motor mounts

-replace new rear mounts, replace new grade 8 bolts,tighten, and forget about them

am I on the right track on this replacement procedure....Thanx Fred

Posted

Fred, I just went through this a while back and never pulled them out yet. You can't raise the tranny enough without hitting the floorboard. Tim told me I could cut the spacer tube and pull the mounts out that way. The spacer is so you don't overtighten and squash the rubber. I just haven't got around to getting the saw I need. I don't think my '41 is any different than your Chrysler.

Tom

Posted
Fred, I just went through this a while back and never pulled them out yet. You can't raise the tranny enough without hitting the floorboard. Tim told me I could cut the spacer tube and pull the mounts out that way. The spacer is so you don't overtighten and squash the rubber. I just haven't got around to getting the saw I need. I don't think my '41 is any different than your Chrysler.

Tom

Hi Tommy, just crawled under the car, and had a looksy. It appears the trans will not lift very much, for clearance to allow spacer tubes to lift out.

Looks like I have to pull the trans, not in the mood for this tomorrow, so it will wait until warm spring weather....Thanx Fred

Posted

I did some searches, it seems there is a way to change these mounts with the trans in.

Now can anyone tell me what might work, in order to change these rear motor mounts.

I am determined to swap them, but do not feel like pulling the trans out just yet...Fred

Posted

I replaced the US drivers side rear bellhousing mount by undoing the nuts on both rear mount bolts, then jacking up the bellhousing slowly until there was enough clearance to remove what was left of the US drivers side upper mount. I then inserted the new mount & plate between the bellhousing and mount then the steel tube/lower mount from underneath and inserted the bolt........I did not touch the front mount, floor boards, exhaust, gearbox or any other bits mentioned.......I did notice the buggered mount while I was playing with the rear engine seal and had dropped the pan & bellhousing sheetmetal cover & noticed that the drivers side mount was RS so decided whilst I was down there........lol..........anyway now that I think about it, I don't think I completely undid the US passenger side rear mount but loosened it off........this was on my 1941 P11 Coupe, I would think similar up to and including 1948.......my car is RHD but that shouldn't be an issue..........andyd

Posted

Thanx Guys, I have no intention of ever pulling the floor plate, I have it well sealed, and sound deadener, and carpet over it, do not want to remove it for any reason, except, if forced to do so.

I will try and seeeeee what I can do today.....Fred

Posted

ENGINE REAR SUPPORT INSULATORS

The engine rear support insulators may be removed and installed by disconnecting the exhaust pipe bracket and overdrive control bracket (if any).

Jack up the rear of the engine and remove the support bolts. Then rock the engine and pry out the insulators. When installing them, change the position of the jack from one side of the engine to the other when jacking up the engine to obtain the necessary clearance

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is from my 1949-1952 Canadian Mopar Shop Manual.

Posted

Okay here's what happened,

Got the nuts off bottom of motor mounts, jacked up engine, under the trans. I could not get clearance to remove the top rubber and tube spacers.

I had one "H" of a time getting the bolt back trhough the spacer tube, and lined up, this is why.

The rear engine mount brace, has been moved forward, this was to accomodate for dry clutch, when flui drive was removed, I did not do this job.

The mount brace, should be either moved forward slightly or something, to allow the 7/16 bolts to line up with mounts, easier.

There were no bottom rubbers, and the bolts sued were 3 1/2 fine thread 7/16 bolts.

I buttoned everything back up, not sure what I am going to do next.

I think the trans should come out, possibly the rear mount brace moved slightly.

I am not going to do this job until spring, or maybe take it toa small shop near by.

I am a little tired, banged my head on the cement floor too, good thing I was wearing a winter knit hat......Fred

Posted
Okay here's what happened,

Got the nuts off bottom of motor mounts, jacked up engine, under the trans. I could not get clearance to remove the top rubber and tube spacers.

I had one "H" of a time getting the bolt back trhough the spacer tube, and lined up, this is why.

The rear engine mount brace, has been moved forward, this was to accomodate for dry clutch, when flui drive was removed, I did not do this job.

The mount brace, should be either moved forward slightly or something, to allow the 7/16 bolts to line up with mounts, easier.

There were no bottom rubbers, and the bolts sued were 3 1/2 fine thread 7/16 bolts.

I buttoned everything back up, not sure what I am going to do next.

I think the trans should come out, possibly the rear mount brace moved slightly.

I am not going to do this job until spring, or maybe take it toa small shop near by.

I am a little tired, banged my head on the cement floor too, good thing I was wearing a winter knit hat......Fred

Is failure an option?

Posted
Is failure an option?

failure is only for the moment, not for the future, and the future starts the next minute.

I will get this job done, don't forget it's cold up here, I have to heat up the shop, work on the floor, on some carpet.

I am not sure how I am going to proceed, what may be the best course of action. Hey Don, did'nt you say you were retired, how about lending a hand in this one.......

Posted

How about pulling the engine/trans in one unit, and take the opportunity to clean and detail both the engine/trans and the engine compartment??

Might end up being the same amount of work as laying on the cold concrete bashing your head and getting crud falling in your eyes. Great winter project??

Posted
How about pulling the engine/trans in one unit, and take the opportunity to clean and detail both the engine/trans and the engine compartment??

Might end up being the same amount of work as laying on the cold concrete bashing your head and getting crud falling in your eyes. Great winter project??

Maybe next winter, if I ever do the complete removal, will rebuild engine, or have my 251 rebuilt and ready to go.

I know a local mechanic who has a hoist, who could probably make short work of this project.

The trans, clutch housing were detailed and painted just 3 years ago, my engine is not bad, but if I ever pull this engine, will paint everything again, including the firewall too.......

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