Barabbas Posted September 14, 2010 Report Posted September 14, 2010 My O/D works great --except that the cable to activate the O/D really is binding up. At first I had to really pull to disengage the O/O, Now it disengages easily but won't reengage. I got the car up on jack stands and found that the lever moves pretty easily so I guess the issue is in the cable or routing. Right now the cable comes out the hole in the with the shielded ignition wire and then arcs down to the sheath on the brake cable. The final cable hold down is on an arm supplied by George Asche that is right next to the solenoid. The cable is new and there is no sign of rust on the inner wire-- what is the best way to route and secure the cable and/or is there something else I should be looking at? Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted September 14, 2010 Report Posted September 14, 2010 It could be the strength (diameter) of the cable wire. I bought a cable at O'Reilly auto supply for about $20. Looked nice and has a locking feature. But the wire in the center is too light weight to do the pushing of the lever. Just guessing. Quote
Alshere59 Posted September 14, 2010 Report Posted September 14, 2010 It could be the strength (diameter) of the cable wire.I bought a cable at O'Reilly auto supply for about $20. Looked nice and has a locking feature. But the wire in the center is too light weight to do the pushing of the lever. Just guessing. I would say a good guess. Try putting a return spring on it. Cables do alright pulling but not as great pushing. My two cents Quote
Barabbas Posted September 14, 2010 Author Report Posted September 14, 2010 return spring sounds like a good idea , but then I should probably get a locking handle so it won't creep into free wheeling when I don't want it. Wire O/D makes sense too--I saw on a Studebaker site that people had found some .08 dia wire, and ideas where I could find some that dia Quote
Barabbas Posted September 15, 2010 Author Report Posted September 15, 2010 Fixed the problem, it was embarrassing simple. Just had to reroute the cable-the original routing had no obvious kinks but was over constrained with tie downs. I changed the routing and eliminated most of the tie downs and everything works fine. This is the first time I worked with the shielded steel cables--they are more sensitive to routing than I had thought Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted September 15, 2010 Report Posted September 15, 2010 Great.....!! Glad you solved the problem. Things like that do make a person feel kinda silly sometimes, but you learned something. The thing about these old cars---- there's always something to learn. Quote
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