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Posted

When you buy a new battery, best to make sure it is a group II, and not just a group I - lots of difference in size and cold crank amps. The larger will cost a few bucks more, but is well worth the cost, AND best to make sure all your cables are really 6 volt cables. These will be considerably thicker than your pinkie. If they are not, they're 12 volt cahle and won't haul the mail for long. Also, that positive ground cahle is just as important as the hot side. Ir's always good to check out the end away from the hattery, as it is most often neglected. A good clean star lock washer at this connection is worth it's weight in copper, if not gold. JMHO:)

  • 3 months later...
Posted

wow still no luck, all the places I checked (auto zone, napa, pep-boys, sears, local tractor store) only carry the group 1 battery. I would prefer a group II which is slight larger and usauly has 800+ cca. They can all order it for me, but it would cost over $100 in every case.

Any other thoughts as to where else I should check?

Thank you.

Posted
wow still no luck, all the places I checked (auto zone, napa, pep-boys, sears, local tractor store) only carry the group 1 battery. I would prefer a group II which is slight larger and usauly has 800+ cca. They can all order it for me, but it would cost over $100 in every case.

Any other thoughts as to where else I should check?

Thank you.

Alex,

I've always used a Group I battery with no problems. I buy direct from Remy Battery Company and they said it's the right one for our cars. They also sell the Group II battery for a little more money. Don't know if you have a Remy shop nearby, but if so give them a call.

That said, the last time I was in a Battery Plus store in the spring I saw 6 volt batteries sitting in the showroom. So, you might try there too if you have them in your area.

Posted

If you have a Tractor Supply Company store in your area, that would be a place to go. Still a lot of tractors out there running 6V. Our cars took either a group 1 or group 2 depending on how heavily they were optioned. The group 2 is larger and may not fit in your battery tray. so take it measurments wit you. Personally I don't thinky you need more than a 600 CCA battery.

Posted

in my haste and ignorance upon bringing my '52 home, i used a 12v battery to spin the engine over (for short bursts only!) and frankly i was amazed at the speed the starter produced. i started the car a couple of times with 12v but discovered to my delight that 6v worked equally well if only slower, and it's marvelous how the engine does it's little "woof woof woof brrrm" on the 6v....i'm using the group 1 battery from Autozone; it cost 69 bucks IIRC. i used to work for Ford, Massey Ferguson, and John Deere tractor dealerships before i went to work for VW. outside of farming communities, 6v batteries practically don't exist. wally world had no 6v of any kind locally.

Posted

I just remembered a conversation with the parts guy at the small auto parts store I go to all the time locally. When there a few months ago he had a small display of batteries sitting next to the counter. They were all 12 volt. Just for curiosity sake I ask if he had 6 volt batteries. Said no, but he could order one and have it the next day. So, you might try that.

Posted

I've been buying my 6-volts (Group 1) from Sam's Club, for around $30.

And they've lasted anywhere from four to six years, in several of my 6-volt stockers.

Last fall, the group 1 in my De Soto croaked ( sudden death, no warning), and I tried a local battery shop that a friend recommended, and got a Group 2 six-volt "blemished" for $25.

It has succesfully cranked my '41 to l ife through a pretty cold NE Penna winter, and into this summer... I run the car only about once a week, but the battery seems hold its charge just fine.

Don't know about Plymouths and Dodges, but my De Sotos and Chryslers all used Group 2 batteries from the factory; but aside from looking a little "lost" in the battery tray, the Group 1 has started my MoPars just fine.

As the other guys have said, #2 or larger cables, and good clean connections are a "must".

I really like the looks of the "authentic" tar-tops, but I can't justify the expense until I'm going for an AACA trophy...

Have heard both good and bad stories about Optimas... no personal experience yet.

Good luck !

De Soto Frank

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