D25_Owner Posted April 8, 2010 Report Posted April 8, 2010 I'm having trouble getting my fuel sender out or off of the tank. I took all the screws out and I've been prying on it untill the plate is getting distorted but it wont come out. It seems to be sticking where the rivets are, but i don't think I'm supposed to grind them off. Does this thing twist off? The car is a '48 D25. Thanks for any help. Quote
RobertKB Posted April 8, 2010 Report Posted April 8, 2010 It should just come off with the screws out. The rivets have nothing to do with holding it in place. It is probably just stuck from 60+ years of use and will just take a lot of gentle prying to work it loose. I have removed mine a couple of times without trouble but maybe someone else on the forum had your trouble and can help with further advice. Quote
Andydodge Posted April 8, 2010 Report Posted April 8, 2010 Sqirt some WD40 or even some(very little) fuel around the inside of the lip to tyry & moisten the seal....it should just be held/stuck onto the cork gasket.........BUT NO GRINDING EVER......andyd Quote
randroid Posted April 9, 2010 Report Posted April 9, 2010 D25_Owner, Go with the gentle pressure RobertKB mentioned and it will eventually lift off. What Andydodge said about no sparks means do nothing to cause heat because those sending units are not fume-proof once the screws are out. Maybe a PO used Permatex on it and if so you're in for a headache but it can be done. Try tapping a thin wedge around the perimeter but make sure the tool you tap isn't of ferrous metal because that might work too well. When the time comes to re-assemble it to the tank you'll probably find the holes are not evenly spaced, and that's to make sure the float won't hit any obstructions inside the tank. Just turn it a few times and it'll align. -Randy Quote
RobertKB Posted April 9, 2010 Report Posted April 9, 2010 Good point about avoiding ferrous metals. Last thing you want is any kind of spar. Anything brass, bronze, wood, lead, etc should work. I am not even sure what I would use as a screwdriver sure is handy but could be dangerous. Maybe something plastic would be best? Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Posted April 9, 2010 Is the tank empty? One thing I noticed is--that appears to be a two connection sender (as used in a Plymouth of 46-48 vintage) instead of a one wire unit used in most or all Dodges those years. Is a D25 a different float unit than a D24?? I would suppose the 1 or 2 wire sender would be the same diameter, however. My thought was also that maybe someone replaced the gasket with some type of sealant that is now causing your problem. I think the rivets are what holds the inner cover of the unit to that disc you see. Quote
RobertKB Posted April 9, 2010 Report Posted April 9, 2010 Any D25 I have dealt with, and I have seen a few, have the 2 connections. D25 is a Plymouth with Dodge trim so it would make sense to be the same as a Plymouth. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Posted April 9, 2010 Oh......now I see.......a person in Utah with a Canadian Dodge (Plymouth in disguise). Then, the two wire sender would be correct. I didn't catch on which type car it was. Thanks for that info. Quote
D25_Owner Posted April 9, 2010 Author Report Posted April 9, 2010 Thanks to all for the replies. I finally got it out. It was a mess and the float arm was rusted in place. Once it was out, I removed the rivets, cleaned up the internal parts and I think I got it working again. I'll have to check it tommorow. I also pulled the tank out and gave it a good cleaning. Inside, it had a couple of cups of rust, sand and wasps. All is well for now. Thanks again, Dave Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Posted April 9, 2010 Did you test by suction or by running a wire thru - to make sure the gas comes out thru the pickup tube and filter that's built in? That thing gets stopped up by crud from the tank. I did a bunch of reaming with a straightened coathanger before the one on the early 49 Plymouth was open. Quote
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