Brake Drum Resurfacing Question.

[IronMike]

I am in the process of doing a major brake rebuild on my 50 Dodge Coronet. I have learned a great deal by reading other's threads that have already tackled this job. I am going to have my wheel cylinders and master cylinder sleeved, still researching the various venders that I have read about here. I am going to replace all hoses and lines, thinking about going the poly armor route for all metal lines. The shoes were in good shape with few miles on them but were ruined by leaky wheel cylinders from the car sitting up for a few years. Before I make a short question long........let me get to my question.

The drums are in really nice shape without any grooves or scoring. Once I make sure that they are within specs. would I be O.K. to run some sand paper to clean them up and give them scuff for the new shoes to get a bite or should I go ahead and get them turned. I am leary because I had a set of newer model drums ruined by a shop (which they replaced). However drums for our old cars aren't readily available so I am hesitant to let someone throw them on the brake lathe.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Mike

[IronMike]

Thanks for the info!

[Robert Horne]

My 49 had been sitting for many years. The drums looked very good, but had a high spot. When I would spin the wheel slow, I could feel the high spot very easy. So I had to have them turned down lightly.

[50 Dodge Lug Nut]

Mike -

I also have a '50 Coronet, 4 dr.

I had my master cyliner and wheel cylinders rebuilt about 2 months ago by White Post Restorations in White Post, VA. They are family owned for 60+ years, did an outstanding job and their turn-around was about 8 days. Price wise, compared to buying new (Asian or Indian crap) and being able to keep and use your own original parts & equipment having them completely rebuilt was the right choice for me. PM me if you want more info or want to swap "war stories" about our Dodges.

Regards, Frank

[desoto1939]

Bill Thompson the ownere of White Post was one of the first resotation shops to start the resleeving of master and brake cylinders. I have visited his shop about 20 years ago when the NAtional Desoto club held there annula convention at his facility. It is a first class operation. They were using old style lathes then and they like them because they could control the cutting better that the fully automated lathes.

Some are doing the sleeve in brass and some in stainless steel. Not sure what is better I think stainless but not sure you can call around to various restoration shops that do this wook.

Rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.com

[randroid]

Mike,

If you take them to a local shop to get turned they might not be able to find the measurement for the max they can cut out, mostly because Chrysler didn't publish them for the P-15 and may not have for the '51 either. What they did instead was to have a small shallow groove cut in the inside of the drum at the edge of the braking surface, and when that groove was gone the drums couldn't be turned anymore. Chrysler did that so 'poor boy' mechanics could turn the drum without an expensive micrometer.

The wheel hubs pop out of the brake drums on my '48 P-15, although it's almost impossible to see how. An old-time mechanic put my drum on a table and smacked the hub with a rubber mallet and the whole hub simply fell out. No need to worry the lathe operator with the seals that way.

I also have an extra set of front drums. They're 10" and if they'll fit you may have them, although shipping might be a bit pricey.

-Randy

[41/53dodges]

not totally sure, but i know pilothouse 10" drums are interchangeable with the 10" trailer drums from northern tool. they work for the front and are $100/pair. they might work for your fronts, too.

[randroid]

41/53dodges,

Standard trailers traditionally use electric brakes and the drums aren't designed for our stronger brake systems, so I must ask if you're using trailer brake drums on any of your vehicles? I'd be interested in your findings which must be good or you wouldn't be recommending them.

-Randy

[41/53dodges]

they are not in use yet, but the set we found was for a 5000 pound trailer if i remember right, and they seem better built than stock. they are made for either surge (hydraulic) brakes or electric.

[IronMike]

Thanks for the information I checked out White Post's web site and will contact them as well as a few other vendors for sleeve pricing. I think I can scrounge up the master/wheel cylinder kits through my local NAPA. Once I get the back drums pulled I will see if they are as nice as the fronts and make a decision on turning. Gonna check on some shops in Nashville about turning them if needed. I am trying to find someone local that can re-line my brake shoes. I think I read in a researched post that Tennessee clutch and supply in Nashville may handle this kind of work. Work on the car has been kind of slow with it being 20 degrees in my shop and will get even slower once my wife gives birth to our daughter around the end of the month.

Good time to gather parts and information until and I can do the actual wrenching. Thanks to all for the input!

[desoto1939]

Iroenmike: Do you have the old style riveted linings on your car or the bonded lining? If you have riveted lining this is a very simple job that you can do yourself. You will need to get old style rivet lining and then the rivet tool which costs around $30. I like the model that has a handle that screws into the anvil and then compresses the rivet versus the style in which you him the ent of the tool with the hammer and then thin crimps the end of the rivet. When hitting the end with the hammer I feel that you have a good cahnce of breaking the lining. The screw type allows you to control the pressure that is being applied to the end of the rivet. I can send you a picture of the tool that I used. Rivets will run you around 25 cents each and I think you would use a 4-5 rivet. Let me know which car you are do the brake job on an I will try to look in my brake book to determione the correct rivets. I got mine from Big Flat Rivets.

Also the rivet tool has the part to push out the old rivet. It is a fun project to do and you learn somemore about your car. I have found that the newer bonded lining gets hard faster and then it glases over and then the cars then tend to pull when applying the brakes. The mechanics are also experienceing the same with this happening on the newer cars and the linings are not lasting as long as the did in the past.

Rich Hartung

[IronMike]

Rich,

The shoes are the bonded style.

Mike

[desoto1939]

Mike:

Thansk for getting backto me onthe type of shoes that you have on the car.

i did have some old bonded shoes and converted them to riveted. I placed the riveted lining on the shoe and clamped the lining onthe shoe. drill the holes and then mounted the lining with the rivets. It can be done just need to take extra care and clamp the lining to the metal brake shoe.

rich hartung