aero3113 Posted November 24, 2009 Report Posted November 24, 2009 I pulled my oil pan tonight to get a crack re-welded. While I am in there what should I check? I am going to check the torques on the main and rod bolts. I took the oil pickup out to clean. I already did the rear seal what about the front seal?Also when you guys install a pan gasket where do you use sealant?(both sides of the gasket,left and right,front and back?). Quote
randroid Posted November 24, 2009 Report Posted November 24, 2009 bAero, You're going to get more varied opinions to the gasket question than there are ways to cook an egg, so please allow me to be the first to muddy the waters: I apply sealant (adhesive) to only the pan side, then hold the gasket in place with the pan bolts until it's set. I do it this way because pan gaskets are invariably warped and the bolts will keep it aligned. When dried I don't bother with adhesive on the top side because you'll need to wiggle it around to get it in place and glue on the top side of the gasket can make that job more difficult than it needs to be. When reinstalling the pan I find it most simple in the long run to start all the bolts a few threads first, then use a pattern to snug them (there are diagrams readily available) and generally use three or four passes to get them properly torqued. There is so much surface area along the rim of the pan that if you don't take your time and install the bolts in the correct sequence you'll have lots of warpage which will cause lots of leaks, thereby negating the reason for using a gasket in the first place. Last time I cleaned my pickup strainer I found the oil pressure to be alarmingly low once it was reassembled. I fixed this by finding a rubber 'O' ring to slip over the pickup pipe and seal it to the strainer pipe. (Yet another reason for not applying adhesive to both sides of the gasket.) It was such a simple fix that I'll refresh that 'O' ring any time I have a pan off. Hope this helps. -Randy Quote
aero3113 Posted November 24, 2009 Author Report Posted November 24, 2009 Randy, is there supposed to be a o-ring on the strainer pipe? Or is this a fix that you came up with? Quote
james curl Posted November 24, 2009 Report Posted November 24, 2009 The only thing that I do differently than Randy is I apply axle grease to the engine side of the gasket before installing the pan. I have had mine off three times and I am still using the same gasket with no leaks. I re-learned this trick from Don Coatney when he mentioned that’s how he did his I remembered from way back in my past I was taught that by my friends dad who was a mechanic when I was a teenager. Quote
randroid Posted November 24, 2009 Report Posted November 24, 2009 aero, The 'O' ring was a product of desperation on my part but it worked. -Randy Quote
aero3113 Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 Is there a torque value for the pan bolts? Quote
aero3113 Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 The pan gasket that I have came with 2 rubber pieces that are round and about an inch long. What are these for? Quote
aero3113 Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 anyone have any ideas? Quote
aero3113 Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 No Don, they do not. They are about the same diameter as a ink refill in a Bic pen and about an inch long. Quote
aero3113 Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 Is there a torque value for the pan bolts? I also need some more input on how I should seal the pan gasket. I know you guys have different ways of doing this. Quote
Don Coatney Posted November 25, 2009 Report Posted November 25, 2009 I tighten my pan bolts just enough to snug them up but not enough to flatten the gasket. I used gasket cement on one side only on the side gaskets. I use grease only on the un-cemented side of the side gaskets and grease only on the two end pieces. Do not trim (shorten) the end pieces although it looks like they should be trimmed. With liberal grease they will find there own sweet spot. Doing it this way I have removed my oil pan and reinstalled several times using the same gasket. Quote
aero3113 Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 Does the timing chain cover have to come off to get this off? There are two flat head screws and three bolts holding this on. But one bolt I think has a nut on the other side. Quote
Jim Saraceno Posted November 25, 2009 Report Posted November 25, 2009 I know you have to take out a few of the bolts, I'm not sure about the whole cover. If you don't already know there is a problem there I would not worry about those two gaskets. Quote
aero3113 Posted November 27, 2009 Author Report Posted November 27, 2009 I got my pan back from the welder and plan on putting it on this week. Does everyone think axle grease is the way to go on the top side of the gasket? Should I use sealant all the way around on the bottom side? Also is there a torque value for the pan bolts? Quote
Andydodge Posted November 28, 2009 Report Posted November 28, 2009 Aero, the 1946-54 Service Manual I have doesn't list a torque spec for the pan bolts and I'd think that using a 7/16 socket in a ratchet handle would give you more than sufficent force to tighten them, you want them tight, but NOT screwed down so that the pan gasket pushes out the sides.......firm and tight thats all........andyd Quote
aero3113 Posted December 5, 2009 Author Report Posted December 5, 2009 When you guys use the axle grease on the engine side do you also use some sealant where the gaskets meet? Quote
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