PatS.... Posted June 23, 2009 Report Posted June 23, 2009 What would be the best way to go about repairing this rust on the drivers door of my 62 D300? This IS the replacement door, the best I could find...the "fridge door handle" doors are scarce. This is the best of a not so good lot. Quote
48Dodger Posted June 23, 2009 Report Posted June 23, 2009 Judging by how deteriotated it is....I would suggest tearing the whole door down....bolts, glass, registers, rubber, etc. Get it stripped down to metal via sand blasting or better yet, acid dipped. Here's a DIY link: http://www.jefflilly.com/chevelle-restoration/acidtrip.pdf ) When you can see all the rust damage, then you can better judge the project. You can cut in new steel, fiberglass, lead fill, etc.... I think welding would be best, but there are some metal bonding compounds that are great for bringing together older "thin" steel and a patch panel. Here's a link: http://www.autobodystore.com/metal_bonding.shtml Either way...I would completely expose it, so you know what'ca got. 48D Quote
MBF Posted June 23, 2009 Report Posted June 23, 2009 You may want to look for a westcoast door if you can find one to save yourself some work. It looks like the lip that attaches the outer skin to the inner panel is gone in a critical area. Not impossible to fix, but time consuming to say the least. After you get the damaged material cut out it looks like you'll have to make an elongated L shaped piece to go the bottom legnth of the door. I'd used the metal bonding if that is what you decide to do as it does two things. 1-it will bond the 2 pieces, and 2 unlike welding it will provide a sealed seam with will make your repair much more permanent. Mike Quote
coW52Dodge Posted June 23, 2009 Report Posted June 23, 2009 I'd look for a new door. That looks pretty rough and will be a lot of work. Quote
PatS.... Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Posted June 23, 2009 Rare as hens teeth and the ones I do find are all much worse. The price for shipping a rust-free door from a desert state is alarming to say the least. More than I paid for the truck by a LOT. The newer doors with the pushbutton are more common but require changing the whole panel where the striker is on the body part of the jamb. $$$$$$$ as well. Quote
48Dodger Posted June 24, 2009 Report Posted June 24, 2009 Rare as hens teeth... I "got" that the door was the best you could find, that's why I didnt suggest getting a different door. Not to mention the frustration when you think you found a better part and BAM! It has its own set of hidden problems. On a different note, a guy fixes a door like that, paints it, not many will even know what'ca did. Its a personal victory. Unlike chopping, frenching, or slammin', where the curiousity level is high. Fix'n a door like that, is good for the soul, its one of the reasons why I love the old iron. 48D Quote
buds truck Posted June 24, 2009 Report Posted June 24, 2009 if it were me, I would look for an inexpensive door off a different make or model and find one that has a good underside with comparable radiuses. cut what you need and make her fit. been there and done that, Bud Quote
PatS.... Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Posted June 24, 2009 if it were me, I would look for an inexpensive door off a different make or model and find one that has a good underside with comparable radiuses. cut what you need and make her fit. been there and done that, Bud I better check the old twisted door before I junk it. I suspect it's the same but better check first. Thanks for all the suggestions!!!! Quote
coW52Dodge Posted June 24, 2009 Report Posted June 24, 2009 Sorry, I had no idea that door was that rare. That area looks tricky to duplicate so you may have to use the metal that's there, as thin and rough as it may be. After neutralizing the rot, welding to it will be a challenge, if it is even possible. I've never used those new body glues but understand that you can make really strong bonds using it. Maybe use that stuff instead of welding your replacement panel? Quote
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