U-Joint Boots

[JerryinTx]

OK, I gotta get them covered back up soon. Where to get good rubber ones or laceable leather? Roberts doesn't have the leather ones anymore and some have had their rubber ones last only a short time.

Any help is appreciated.

[Furylee2]

I saw a pair of leather ones on eBay today. I usually search 40/41 Plymouth.

[james curl]

I went to Hobby Lobby and got a sheet of tanned pig skin, a curved needle, waxed heavy weight thread and made my own. Made a paper pattern much like making a cone, left both edges about 3/8" long. Used contact cement on the two flaps and assembled the boot to the trunion and the drive shaft using worm clamps with a hacksaw blade under the joint so I could press the two flaps together. After the glue took a set I pulled the hacksaw blade out , clamped booth ends then sewed the two flaps together. Drove the car on a 4600 mile trip two summers ago and the boots still look good today.

[Norm's Coupe]

I've decided to not mess with installing new boots should I need them. If and when that time rolls around, I'll just have the U-Joints replaced by modern ones that don't need a boot, by a driveshaft shop.

[oldmopar]

I went to Hobby Lobby and got a sheet of tanned pig skin, a curved needle, waxed heavy weight thread and made my own. Made a paper pattern much like making a cone, left both edges about 3/8" long. Used contact cement on the two flaps and assembled the boot to the trunion and the drive shaft using worm clamps with a hacksaw blade under the joint so I could press the two flaps together. After the glue took a set I pulled the hacksaw blade out , clamped booth ends then sewed the two flaps together. Drove the car on a 4600 mile trip two summers ago and the boots still look good today.

I think you should go into the leather boot business

[Rodney Bullock]

Wow, I love the boot. I bought mine a very long time ago. I like the fact that you have a old type laced up leather thing under the car:) I have the Plymouth 1940 and the whole drive shaft can be removed very easy. These cars are so servicable. I had only one mishap, I did not tie the shoe tight enough:rolleyes: The second time was a charm. It's still attached...I think.

[JerryinTx]

I went to Hobby Lobby and got a sheet of tanned pig skin, a curved needle, waxed heavy weight thread and made my own. Made a paper pattern much like making a cone, left both edges about 3/8" long. Used contact cement on the two flaps and assembled the boot to the trunion and the drive shaft using worm clamps with a hacksaw blade under the joint so I could press the two flaps together. After the glue took a set I pulled the hacksaw blade out , clamped booth ends then sewed the two flaps together. Drove the car on a 4600 mile trip two summers ago and the boots still look good today.

James, thanks for the details! Think I'll try it.

[blueskies]

I replaced one of the original boots on my '50 with a new one when I rebuilt the joints. The 59 year old original at one end still looks new. The new boot at the other end lasted about 3000 miles before it split in the folds of the rubber...

I've since replaced the diveline with modern joints.

I think the lace up leather boot is the way to go if you are going to keep the ball and trunion joints.

Pete

[JerryinTx]

Today I got the leather boots on. Making a pattern took some trial & error, but in the end, they fit very well. If anyone else needs to do this, I'm keeping the pattern & would be glad to share it.

For now, I'm depending on the contact cement to hold these things together. I got some waxed leather thread and a curved needle, but the pigskin is so tough, I was afraid I'd compromise the glue joint trying to force the needle through. May sew them up later. Gonna let it dry for 24 hours before driving.

One more time, thanks to this great board for a workable solution!

[Norm's Coupe]

Jerry,

If those boots come unglued and you make new ones, you might want to punch holes for threading the lace before installing the boot. If you go to my website link next to my signature it will bring up my restoration page. Then go to Interior Restoration page. At the bottom of that page will be another link that tells how I rebuilt my inside sunvisors. On that page you will see a tool that I used for punching the thread holes prior to sewing the material on. That same punch is also used for leather punching. You can buy the tool in any hardware store.

[JerryinTx]

Yep, you got it right. Need to punch the holes prior to glueing. Thanks for the tip about the leather punch. Your visors look real nice Norm!