Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

As I recall from working on my gas gauge, the original sending unit does

have "1" and "2" stamped into the collar - so those posts should go to

the same numbered posts on the gauge.

Then, the next thing was getting a good ground.

When these cars were new, with clean, unpainted metal, the ground

was good. Over the years our cars have gotten rusty and been

coated and painted in various areas. So, I loosened my gas tank

and scraped off the paint in a small area, made sure it had a clean

contact with the strap and then with the bolt and nut affair at the

end of the strap, which contacts the trunk floor. Also made sure

the area where sender joins tank was clean.

Re: adjusting the needle. You can gently bend the needle itself

to make it point to a different spot on the gauge, if needed. We

did that to mine, but have since discovered we did not need to....

now it's almost 1/4 tank off. But, at least it works (most of the

time). Better than guessing or writing down the mileage.

Posted

To run an extra ground wire off the sender just hook up a wire (about 16 or 18 gauge) to one of the sender mounting screws and the other end to a clean bare metal spot on the body or frame. Make sure you remove any paint or rust from the area on the body or frame that you attach the wire too.

Posted

there is not a seperate ground wire but one can be run if you think your tank to sender metallic bond is questionable..the wiper of the sender is the common ground (float arm) to BOTH legs A and B on the sender and equally split the 28-32 ohms between the two points wiper realitve..

Posted

I have run a seperate wire from the tank to the frame, and also made sure of a good ground where the strap bolt is bolted to the body. Should that be enough, or do I still need the ground from the tank sending unit to the frame?

Jackie

Posted

If that will give you a good clean, tight connection to the body or frame, that's all that's needed to make a good ground. When I'm trying for a good ground, I will normally use a star lock washer to dig into good bare metal as I tighten the connection. So........wouldn't hurt to do that either. Actually, I would not ground to the strap. I would make a whole separate connection someplace on the body or frame. Those nuts in the trunk at the rear of the tank for the straps just sit in there loosely and at the front of the strap, it just hangs in the hanger.

Posted

Ding! Ding! Ding!

I switched the wires on the gauge, and the gauge seemed to read correct. Did a little cruisin, gauge moved the correct way, toward "E". I then filled the tank and the needle went over to "F".

I believe I finally got er done.

Thank all of you for your patience, info, and putting up with me and my stupid questions.

Jackie

Posted

Glad to hear you finally tracked the problem down. No dumb or stupid questions were ask. That thing can be a real pain in the rear end to get working right. I messed with mine for a few weeks or more before I finally got it working.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use