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I'm been stymied looking for an electric windshield wiper that will fit my '51 Plymouth. Newport Engineering makes an aftermarket system that will fit the '49-'50 Plymouths and Dodges but apparently there were enough changes to the cowl in '51-'52 that it won't fit. The usual suspects (Obsolete Parts, MoparMall) want a pretty penny for NOS stuff. Anyone find a aftermarket setup that will fit? Also, I'm going 12 volts.

I've refurbished the vacuum "motor" for the wipers on my P15 special deluxe. (1948) There's a hole in the dash where there must have been a switch or lever to turn them on. But there's nothing there and there's nothing under it that would connect to the vacuum motor's "selector." What does this mechanism look like. How can I fabricate or buy one? Or, must I switch to electric. (I gather I won't be able to mount the radio if I do.) Any advice is appreciated. Kind regards, Bern

My windshield wipers haven't worked since we bought our restored 1950 P20 Plymouth Special DeLuxe Club Coupe earlier this year. I serviced the vacuum wiper motor, but the best it would do is an occasional swipe if you helped it. Vacuum test only indicated about 12 inches. About 6 weeks ago a saw a NOS rebuild kit for the accessory vacuum pump. Today I followed my factory service manual for testing it: disconnect both vacuum lines and test with vacuum gauge. My reading: 0 (zero). Sigh. Clampped off the fuel hose and disconnected both fuel lines on the pump, but not in that order. Sigh. Wedged my socket in to remove the two bolts holding the pump. If you do this job, I suggest you take off the higher front bolt first. I, however didn't. And the when taking it out, my socket wrench kept switching directions on my and the durn bolt would tighten right up. Sigh. Cleaned yo the pump in my parts washer -- I do like that thing, then took the pump in the house to open up the vacuum end. The factory manual has some great directions on doing that so the spring doesn't go flying. Found the vacuum diaphragm looking like this... Well I had a replacement in my rebuilt kit. Only problem is the arm for the oil seal was different, so I had to get creative with a drill and my dremmel tool. Thus far no replacement part for this car has been perfect. Sigh. Returned the pump to the car, connected the fuel lines, and released the vice grip clamp on the fuel hose. Started the car, checked the vacuum and was getting about 7.5 inches. Manual says if I don't have 8 inches that my pump needs servicing. Sigh. Turned off the car, and held the manifold vacuum line to tester. I had my 15 year-old son start the car. It was pulling a steady 16+ inches with me holding the lines together. But it was running much smoother than it normally does. This vehicle has always run rough and I'm not knowledgeable enough to know why. But this is sounding better. I let go of the vacuum line to tell my son to turn off the car and immediately it went back to its rough running. Hmm I connected the manifold line to the vacuum pump again and had the vacuum gauge on the other side. Started the car. Now it is pulling a steady 18". I rev the engine and as it slowed down the vacuum shot up past 20 and then slowly settled on 18 again. But it is running smoothly. Final test, hook up the wipers instead of the vacuum gauge. They work. They work! Now we don't have to leave the Plymouth at home when it is threatening rain. Success. But I really wanted to test out the engine. So I had my son move the parking break cable to the correct side of the clamp (that story to come later) and we took it for a 5 mile drive - up hill. It still doesn't have the power to make it up that really steep hill at 55 mph, but it did it at 52 instead of the 48 mph in the past. And idling on the way downhill, none of the rough running. Success On the way back, we pulled into a parking lot and I let my son drive. Never got past 2nd gear but this parking lot is NOT flat so it is a good proving grounds for teaching the kids to drive a manual transmission. My son doesn't get his learners permit for another 5 months, so he can't drive it on the roads yet. This was only the 2nd time I've let him drive it and he did pretty good. Lots of sighing, but 3 positives 1 wipers work 2 engine runs better 3 my son is learning to drive the car we bought for him

I had thought my Trico Wiper Motor was seized, but instead I think the real issue is that the wiper arms / mounts are either on the wrong side or mounted upside down as with the wiper motor removed, the arms can only move a little bit before hitting the limiters inside under the dash. How do I get them off?

So I've almost got the cab stripped for blasting. Busted the bottom edge off of one of the dash pot metal bezels so I guess I'll be ordering a replacement! It was cracked anyway... No such thing as a dumb question... First: How do you release the catch to operate the fresh air vent? I can reach underneath and push the spring latch and then use the handle to open it...but it looks like there was some type of cable hooked to the release catch at one point. It was disconnected when I got it so nothing to go by. Is it supposed to have a cable to one of the knobs on the dash? Mine were all cracked and trashed. PS - who sells replacement switches and knobs and bezels? Second question: How do you get the fresh air vent off so you can replace the rubber seal after painting? Those bolts look really difficult to reach. Do you have to unbolt the two pivot bolts on the ends and unbolt the two center bolts to the arm that operates it? That is how it looks to me, but if anyone has a better way I'd love to hear it! Lastly: Any repop windshield wiper bezels where they bolt to the cowl? Mine are totally pitted and I'd like to replace them and the rubber base grommet if someone supplies new ones. BTW - My truck came with a vacuum wiper but I'll be replacing with 12v electric. Thanks for any input fellas!!! JT