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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
Found 6 results
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I've refurbished the vacuum "motor" for the wipers on my P15 special deluxe. (1948) There's a hole in the dash where there must have been a switch or lever to turn them on. But there's nothing there and there's nothing under it that would connect to the vacuum motor's "selector." What does this mechanism look like. How can I fabricate or buy one? Or, must I switch to electric. (I gather I won't be able to mount the radio if I do.) Any advice is appreciated. Kind regards, Bern
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Hello all, just noticed that the brake light on my 1947 Chrysler New Yorker has quit working. It is the original one in the centre of the trunk lid. I removed the bulb and checked it - working. I used a small wire brush on the area were the bulb receptacle comes in contact with the lid to try to ensure good ground - bulb still will not work when installed. Any advice about how to ensure good ground or should I take the next step and presume that the switch has failed? If it is the switch then any advice on the replacement procedure? I saw a video on youtube produced by a gentleman who was replacing the brake light switch on a 50's model De Soto and he said that if a vintage Mopar is using silicon brake fluid then the switch will wear and and fail quite frequently. He therefore replaced the pressure switch with a switch activated by the brake pedal arm - has anyone here ever heard of such an issue? Also, since I may have to replace the brake light switch I thought perhaps I would go further and get some discreet LED under bumper turn and brake signals added - is this worthwhile? Can anyone recommend a good LED signal kit that they are happy with?
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I just finished installing a remote start switch on the inside firewall pad, just left of the clutch pedal. My battery is under the seat and it's a real pain to disconnect it, everytime I park the wagon in the shop. i've seen too many vehicle fires to feel comfortable leaving everything connected when I'm away. I decided to go with 4 ought (4/0) conductor from the back of the switch to the starter. I used my existing YnZ Wiring cable that came with the '40 Plymouth wiring harness because it already had the correct terminals (battery post and 3/8" end) to go from the battery to the switch. I've never had any electrical problems since the install a few years ago, however the YnZ conductor is obviously less beefy than the new one (2/0?). I know with 6 volt you want to minimize voltage drop, so I was thinking about replacing the other 3 ft cable with 4/0 conductor, but wire this large is pricey, so if it won't matter, I'll obsess on something else and leave it alone! Opinions?
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This should be a really quick one for you experienced folk. I've searched the forum and read the shop manual to no avail. My truck was "rigged" by a PO with a contact switch mounted to the under side of the floor pan. Messed that up when I removed the floor pieces to restore/protect them from rust. I have the original switch (currently unused) on the forward end of the master cylinder that I want to use to move back toward original equipment. Here's my question: If my old switch is bad, does replacing the brake light switch on the master cylinder require releasing pressure in the master or even bleeding the lines? I'd rather avoid a big surprise. Thanks so much for your help. Bob
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Just wondering if anyone has come across any universal or aftermarket ignition switches that would fit in place of where the original switch once fit. Tired of my universal one just hanging, and trying to avoid buying a NOS one on Ebay. Thanks!
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Decided to tear into my turn signal switch on my 49 plymouth, As it had stopped working awhile ago, and recently started smoking while ignition was on!! I'd rather have a car WITH turn signals, as opposed to a car without turn signals and burnt to the ground. My beginner soldering skills produced a success this time Dont know how to make thse pictures smaller.... they look pretty large in my browser. two of these wires are hanging on by just a strand, causing all kind of shorts etc. the black one (power lead?) isnt even connected and was grounding to the body. the finished product before intallation
