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Well after a summer rebuild (by me), I finally dropped the '56 230 motor into the chassis. The motor is bored .040 over, with new pistons, cleaned up valves, all new bearings, valve springs, etc. I'm running the "Power Pack" intake, (just like @Loren) stock 2 bbl WW Stromberg carb, Langdon mini HEI and split exhaust. I installed a 12 volt alternator, the stock rebuilt 3 spd, and 3:73 Ford Ranger rear end (no more lefty tighty, righty loosey). I've also installed a PCV valve in place of the draft tube and will tie it into the air cleaner. It's time to install the fuel lines and gas tank. Using my parts wagon as a template, steel fuel lines are plumbed from the carb to the fuel pump, then a short section of rubber fuel line, then back to steel. What's the purpose of the rubber- as a vibration dampener?

I have the opportunity to purchase a rebuilt C54 Chrysler Spitfire 265 motor from a friend at a very good price. I was looking for a powerplant for my stalled '52 Suburban project and after some research and help from Forum members, I think I can fit it into the wagon with only minor modifications. I have the bill of sale from the machine shop and it looks like they did a thorough job: They magna-fluxed and hot-tanked the block, resurfaced the head, installed new valve guides & lifters, rebored and honed .030 over cylinders. Installed new 030 over pistons and rings, reconditioned the rods with new pins and bushings, ground and polished the crankshaft, installed new rod and main bearings. Fitted new cam bearings, and installed a new oil pump. They then reassembled the long block. Costs were: parts $203, labor $890, total $1109. The year was 2003! In one of his excellent videos, @keithb7 states that rebuilding a Mopar flathead, parts alone will run you about $500/cylinder. I can testify to that price range, as I have a 230 motor in a local machine shop for hot tanking and magna-fluxing. They quoted me $5,000 to rebuild it and 6-9 months to get it done! I will be able to purchase the Spitfire for less than the cost of the original rebuild so obviously, I MUST BUY IT! I'm excited about resurrecting the motor, but not sure how to proceed. It was never run, and has been in dry storage for almost 20 years. I know - Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders and using a drill in the the oil pump shaft to lube the bottom end - should I use standard 10-40w with an additive like Lucas TB Zinc-Plus for break in oil? Any other cautions/suggestions?

Hello, Need help identifying an engine I've come across with engine number T214 SR-4488 still in a crate. Crate is marked as Army surplus. Anyone know how to identify this number? It is a 23" long block. I'm considering purchasing for my PT81 1939 Plymouth pickup as a spare. Any information would be most appreciated. Year? Cubic inches? Regards, Steve