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Showing results for tags 'bell housing'.
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I'm moving right along on my '52 Suburban build. This week I finished upgrading the brakes to a dual master cylinder from ECI Hotrod Brakes and Brackets. It's very well made and I had no trouble fitting it to my existing underfloor brake pedal. The instructions were good, and the only thing I had to buy extra was a bracket off eBay, to hold the combination valve below the master cylinder. I tried to re-use all the original clutch parts that I could, but needed to add a bit of metal to the clutch pull back spring arm as it was wallowed out, and install new clevis pins. My wife donated her old tan purse for the clutch fork seal. I saved some $ by using the P15D24 Forum template and made one myself, as AB and others are all out of stock. Next-steering column fun! ECIChrysler.mov
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Hello All, I am in need of some advice. I'm currently attempting to replace the clutch in my 1946 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupe. I have disconnected the drive shaft and transmission, but can't figure out the best way to access the clutch and flywheel. My shop manual doesn't get into very much detail here at all, and I'm stumped. The bell housing seems to bolt on top of a frame crossmember. So, what is the best next step in removing this? Is there an easiest way to remove the clutch linkages from the bell housing? (That is, should I just disconnect them from the clutch petal, or from the bell housing?) Does the clutch plate put pressure on the bell housing (that is, will it spring off when I take out the bolts)? Should I remove the flywheel cover? Is the engine supported directly by this bell housing (since it's bolted to the frame)? If so, how should I support the engine while making this repair? Many Thanks in Advance, and Best, J.P.G.
