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Hello new to the forum. I decided to rebuild the carburetor on my 1948 Plymouth Special deluxe, and I'm kind of glad I did. There was a coating of rust sludge in the bottom of it but it still ran pretty good. I need a new float and float pin, I've found the float but I can't find the float pin. Does anyone know of any alternatives for a float pin, even if I have to modify an existing one? Also, are there any other alternatives to the carter carburetor that would bolt up in the stock location without modifying too much? I'm running the stock air bath air filter and I'd like to keep it looking stock. Thank you!

First time posting so greetings all! I'm buying my first classic car (52 wayfarer all original with 39000 original miles) this week (providing it looks as good as the pictures in the ad). Providing everything goes as well as I hope I know I will need to add seatbelts so the kids can go for a ride. Here are my questions: 1. Does anyone have any recommendations on quality aftermarket seat belt kits? 2. Talking with the current owner, the front seat is showing enough wear that the foam is showing. That being said: A. Does anyone know of any aftermarket seat replacement options? If not, B. Any recommendations on seat covers or manufacturers that someone could point me to? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Regards Mat

My local supplier only carries 18 and 20g steel, what do you use for patching body panels?

This is my "barn-find"....although I've always known where it was so I didn't find it. This is my great grandfather's truck...his name on the side along with the name of the farm. My grandma gave me this truck when I was 10 years old and this vehicle is what made me fall in love with old cars. 25 years later, I am finally at a point where I am resolved to get it running again after sitting parked in a little home-made "dodge barn" for 42 years. After a lot of time and patience, I got the seized engine unstuck by jacking up the rear wheel, turning it all the way to one side, and filling the chambers with WD-40 or whatever other penetrating oil I had on hand. Then I would turn the wheel all the way to the other side until it stuck, and did the same thing. After a few weeks of back and forth every few days, it came unstuck...even has compression. Threw a battery from my Model T on this truck yesterday to see if the starter worked, and the truck cranks over now. My next step will be to drain the old oil, WD/40 and everything else out of the system and put some new oil in, then pull her around the farm to get lubed up. The gas tank is quite rusted, visually, on the outside. No idea what it looks like inside, but I'm guessing terrible, so I have some questions. Keep in mind, this truck will not be restored or repainted to look new. It is an old farm truck so I'm not going to do much to its appearance at all, except wash it, but I want it running smooth, staying original as possible, and safe to drive. That being said, has anyone got advice on how to replace a shot gas tank in a B1B? Does anyone make reproduction tanks specifically for this truck that I'm not finding? I found this: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=349/prd349.htm They say with some modifications their dodge tank will fit a B1B. Has anyone used this tank? Another company? I'm just interested in your thoughts as I look at tacking the fuel system. Thanks boys!

can anyone tell me what the best options are for replacing the 2 windshields on my 49 dodge pickup. Anyone have any experience replacing them... THey seem simple enough but Im sure that any custom made replacements will cost and arm and a leg Any help will be appreciated.

I am working replacing the bed on my 1953 Dodge B4C. From what I can tell this bed configuration is different from most of the other years. I am looking for any information anyone might have regard the dimensions of the wood and how the outer pieces are cut and installed. It appears that the two outer piece have a curve which would need to be cut with a Jig saw. I have the bolt Kit and I just want to make sure that I have the correct information before I start cutting and drilling the wood. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated!

Folks, First, I'm a new person so please be gentle. This is my first official posting on P15-D24. Within the last two weeks I have purchased my first ever MoPAR after being in the VW world for far too long. I am a bit skiddish but am learning all about these cars. A recent visit over to the wheel and brake place that I've taken my car to made a discovery about my new car. The parking brake handle is there, but nothing else leading up to where the parking brake 'should' be is there. It's just plain missing. I've seen parts on Andy Bermbaum today but not sure of what I should get. My questions are two fold: 1. If the entire parking brake assembly including cable and such are gone, where do I find these parts? 2. Has an aftermarket part or parts been made to fashion a parking/emergency brake? Any assistance would be appreciated. -FedoraGent

I'm installing new lower control arm bushings on my '48 D24 3-window. I got new bushings and shaft from Andy Bernbaum in Newton, MA (very quick delivery). When I removed the old bushing the threads looked very, well, bad. The threads in the control arm also looked bad and looked like they were squared off on the top, not sharp. The new bushings also have these square threads, at least one of them does, the other bushing has sharper threads. My problem is that the bushings only go in about two threads. The shop manual talks about using cutting oil when installing to cut threads. The experienced guys here at work say just use a bigger wrench. Also, the other side went together ok, not like a new fine thread, but not too bad. Should I just use a bigger wrench? Should I tap the control arms? What size tap? Should I run a die over the bushing? Should I exchange the bushings? I've never done this before, a bigger wrench doesn't seem right. Thanks, John B. 401-297-9652