rolliejoe

Michael, Here's a picture of a nice decal that will compliment whatever filter you go with:

especially when your on a motorcycle.

i think he's trying to show off his fancy dual spark-plug 3 cylinder.

Don, I have .013 clearance between the cap and block whether the h pieces are installed or not. On my cap the groove ramps up as it goes towards the bearing, is you h-piece too far in? Here are the instructions from the Felpro master set (somewhat confusing):

The secret to the rope seal is not to work on it when it's getting late while not wearing gloves. When I was trying to push the rope in the plate the rope would only get fatter and my hands just got greasier. Today I flattened the rope seals with my fist, then they went in to place. Mocked it up and those rope seals are dang tight, can't even turn the crank. I think I'm going to go with the neoprene plate type.

I'm dealing with the rear seal also. So which is better, neoprene or the rope type for sealing? If I go with the rope, is there any secret on getting the rope inserted in to the plates?

No problem, I had the manual open any way as I was reading about the rear seal to make sure to get it right. It's the reprint of the factory Plymouth Service Manual 1946-52, ordered it from Bishko books.

paint looks great in the pictures.

According to the manual: "one half of a .001 inch thicker-wall bearing insert can be used with one half of a standard size insert and one half of a .002 inch thicker-wall bearing insert an be used with one half of a .001 inch bearing insert. Never use one half of a .002 inch insert with one half of a standard size insert." also: (repetitive) " do not use an old bearing half with a new bearing half. New bearing halves can be mixed if one half is the next size larger or the next size smaller."

new topic almost, a question about the new main bearings: is this acceptable or do the new federal mogul main bearings made in mexico need to be exchanged for something else? (new rear main bearing pictured with old '55 bearing)

Air shocks were horrible on to the upper shock mounts on Mopar A-bodies, seems they put most of the stress on those upper mounts. I had 2 Darts with previously installed air shocks that had the upper mounts break out. What does that have to do with a P24 Suburban? Probably nothing...

on rod journal #4 it didn't make a difference in clearance between 45 and 50 lbs. of torque, time to put the plastigauge down, lol.

Rod clearances are coming in @ .0015 with the exception of #1 and #2 coming in @ .0010. That was with me torquing the rods to the upper value of 50. With the mains I went with the lower value of 80 (upper value being 85). Hum, does 5 lbs of torque make a difference?

That's very interesting Dave. I guess I need to check my rod journals before going any farther. Thanks.

I was searching for bearing clearance when I ran onto your interesting thread Pete. You left off with the rods possibly hitting the block and I'm in the middle of putting my 218/230 motor together. So were the rod/ block clearance okay, where did those marks on the rod come from?