packratc

Thank you for the obvious quesion about my having a ballast resistor protecting my points and condenser. I do not. I am using a coil that does not require one. I think the parts guy refered to it as a "ford-type" coil. Friend Jessie Harvey has been running them in his '36's for a long time. The coil has the words printed on the outside that say something like "External resistor not required." It too came from the local NAPA store. My electronic ignition should be here by Wednesday. Thank you, packratc  

Last week took my almost-finished P19 to the local cruise for the first time. Has less than 20 miles in it but the cruise is only 1/2 mile away. Running great on new engine rebuild, new carb & distributor rebuild. Had been started probably 30 or 40 times. Back to the garage and five days later it wouldn't make it a block before it had a terrible miss and kept dying. Limped back to the garage. Would barely idle. Reset the points. Reset float level. Replaced carburator. Reset float again. Unknown to us the muffler had filled with gasoline. Four of us jumped out of our skin when the muffler exploded as the seam split one end to the other. It didn't have a tail pipe so it looks like a banana exploded under there as it "peeled" in all directions. All this had started when the engine would start and run great until it warmed up. It progressively got worse as the missing and "carrying on" would commence earlier on in the running of the engine. Obviously it was heat related. Finally replaced the brand new condenser. Runs like a new engine. My thought process is now that I need to check if it should be a differrent consenser due to the 12 volt conversion. Most of you know much more than I. Is there a difference? My NAPA guy just sold me a condenser for a '50 Plymouth. Thanks! 

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Don't match mine from a '50 Plymouth. Wish they did. Thanks for offering them to the group.

Don't know about the measurements but they look like the rocker clips on my '50 Plymouth. If they are I'd be interested in purchasing them.

It's been a day since I got back on this but after starting fluid nor accetelyne created a disturbance while was engine was running I went to the distributor. Found that the weights were rusted in place so I had insufficient advance. Cleaned it all up and got the weights free. Spun distributor in my drill and weights moved outward. Reinstalled and got no performance change. So back to the carb. By chance another carburator showed up on Craigs List a couple of hours away. I drove over Saturday and picked it up. Oh, It was attached to an engine. Engine was in a '50 two door. It followed me home. Spent some hours and a can of carb cleaner on it and threw it on the car after setting the float level and oil-soaking the leather pump. Engine now runs great. Now time for an admission: When I took original carb off, the carb/manifold nuts were not much more than finger tight. But I thought the would carb cleaner application while running would have caught that. I might have two good carburators now. Now what to do with the coupe that I bought.  

Yep, It runs fine with the choke half closed. Cutting off the air normally flowing through the throat of the carburator corrects the balance of fuel and air. At least that's what I think. I think you're getting the air around the throttle shaft that should have been coming through the throat. Not sure I made this clear. Are you having the same problems?

I feel like an idiot but I've looked at the resources section half a dozen times. I can read all about George Ashe but I can't find a phone number or address. Can someone help this poor old redneck by guiding me to this info. Thanks, Carl

1950 Plymouth, P19, has all new engine parts, no miles since rebuild. Rebuilt the carburator. Had it apart many times. Had several helpers. Starts good, sounds good, valves almost quiet. Vacuum advance works well. Engine bogs and will only rev up when you nurse the throttle. Thought it was stuck mechanical advance but a friend thought it was gas. He smeared axle grease on each end of the carburator throttle shaft and it ran great. Oh, then the grease melted off. So as it happens when you remove the throttle return spring you can make the carburator shaft move all around. Buddy Jesse Harvey drops off a box of carburators but only one for a 230. It's a little loose too. In a few days i'll exchange the bases on the two carburators and see what I have then. But I plan on adding another carburator so I'll need two good ones. And finally my question is: Who's got over-sized shafts and bushings? Who does the machine work if the shafts have to be built up and turned down? Many thanks for you all's help as this site has been invaluable to me for the past 18 months. 

Harold, They didn't sell carpet for a 1950 Plymouth Business Coupe.

Thanks for you all's help. I had tried Stock Interiors with no luck. I called www.carparts just now and ordered a "kit" for the P19 at a price of $91. Shipping to bring it to $118. It'll be made by Newport something-or-other and shipped & received within 10 days. I inquired about www.carparts.com and their business. Their parent company is JC Whitney. So there you go! I'll foward results of my purchase when I get it. Carl

Looking for company that sells pre-cut and sewn carpet for a 1950 Plymouth, P19, business coupe. All help appreciated.

I've got a '50 parts car that probably has what you need. packratc@gmail.com

Captain Den, I might be interested in the wires. packratc@gmail.com Thanks, Carl

Thanks for the replies and photos but Plymouthy Adams was right. I know how to ground the engine. I need more bolts to make compressor and alternator

brackets mount to a finned head. Thanks again, Carl

Need at least two more of the drilled & tapped head bolts that are used for the ground cable. Does anyone have a source for these?

Many Thanks, Carl

Looks like the stuff. Mine is a 1950 so the "T" is the factory stuff. Is that what you're saying? DodgeB4ya, where did this come from? Thanks!

The wing piping T looks like the stuff. i had found that but ordering it looked ominous. I'll find my Roberts catalog somewhere. Thanks for the other answers also.

This post is meant to say "T" shaped & not shipped.

Working on a P19 that had been built years ago. Either it or one of my parts cars had some "T" shipped black plastic fender welting. But it's scraped & cut too rough to use. I put in chrome welting & don't like it. The black "T" welting lays lower than the regular round beaded products. Does anyone know of a source for such a product? It's relatively narrow, kind of like you had cut down the original and rounded off the head. Reading this back it sounds like I'm nuts, I know. Thanks for your help & understanding. Packratc

I just bought some 12-24 screws from Fastenal. Took a week to get them. Bought 100 as I have several cars. Good luck.

Got it done. I had to apply more muscle and leverage against the bottom of the tube. Once it got up 5 or so inches it came all the way out. Came out even with the seat in the car and me sitting in the driver's position. I left the shift mechanism, the insulation at the bottom and the shifter on it. Now if I can get it painted & back together and working I'll be a happy camper. Thanks for the good advice. Packratc.

Not sure I understand even from the pics. The shift mechanism catching on the floorboard is not the problem. The floorboard piece which gives you access to the pedal assembly and master cylinder is not in the car. The insulating material & floor grommet is hanging on the tube but not touching anything. It appears that the jacket is free of anything and is just hanging on the hollow steering rod that goes into the steering box.  I'm going to look at it more this AM. Thanks for the response. Certainly I'm not the only one ever to paint the column outside of the car. What's with the underlining?

Wanting to remove the steering column tube to repaint it. Took off steering wheel, horn mechanism, and turn signals with wires. Loosened the shifter, took off coller at bottom of column and removed linkage from transmission rod. I thought the column would just go up toward the roof leaving the steering tube assembly in place. It moves a little over three inches and stops. I have a manual. Does not discuss it. Can't tell how it is assembled. The manual discusses removing the whole thing with the box via out the bottom of the car. If I do that I still have the problem of removing the tube. Any help or advise would be appreciated. Packratc

I see we are neighbors.

Lascassas, TN 37085. NE of Murfreesboro.