CaptChris

I have no brake lights since messing with and changing out the steering stem. I’m assuming I have these plugged in incorrectly. Does anybody have a good photo of the colors and where they go? Thanks in advance.

Got a buddy to go pop the wheels off and measure. He told me WMS is 60 7/8”. So figured I’d post it for anybody needing that info. Thanks for advice Adam and Los Control. I’m doing a 9” because it leaves me an option for a bigger engine in the future.

Thanks Sniper. I still need Wheel Mounting surface dimension for stock ‘50 Chrysler Windsor with stock wheels. Local hot rodder/body shop owner told me all I needed was flange dimension and spring center to center, but after reading up want to arm myself with WMS dimension. Not near my car, and I do feel stupid for not measuring this prior, so I’m kicking this up top again for somebody to notice.

Hey y'all, I'm searching for rear Wheel Mounting surface dimension for 1950 Chrysler Windsor. Doing the axle swap this winter and am planning on a ford 9", even if it's overkill with the 340. Heading out to Carlisle tomorrow to see if I can find something close to what I need. I just measured 55 3/4" for backing plate to backing plate dimension. Is a change in width necessary if I choose to do disc brakes? Advice is appreciated, thanks.

I’m pretty curious about the outcome of the Saginaw 525 box compared to stock. Is the ratio different than stock? Are they easier to steer? My car is a bit of a bear for slow and tight turning. I also have some slop in my wheel and am wondering if I should just swap to a better box than rebuild the original Gemmers unit.

Yes I considered that, but wanted to keep the car original. Haha just kidding. I would have needed an adapter piece for a Heim and at first look it appeared it also would take up some decent real estate, but definitely another way to go.

After bending, it’s still close but isn’t touching anywhere, yes even with engine running.

Drag link in. $70 and some time to get it right. My setup needed a slight bend to clear the starter mount. Only thing I will change in the future is to find a tie rod end that has side grease fittings instead of on top. Photo of before bend,

Also, I ordered a fixed length that they sell and not the custom length, saves ya like $50. I used a lathe to nip down each end about 3/4”. 916-32504 part number from Speedway. I’ll post a pic when she is mounted and working.

This is where I am currently, picked up an 11/16 drag link from Speedway. The ford type rod ends came with it for about $60. I would have used the 5/8 bar from Speedway but the 11/16 rod ends had the closest dimensions, in terms of shank size (small end & large end), to the stock part I am replacing.

Not worried about stock, whatever works!

I hear ya, but in fact from what I have seen this past week, they are called a Drag Link. It goes from steering box forward to a kind of pivot arm. It has tie rod type ends on it that are not adjustable. Also, the ends are 90 degrees away from each other and the steering box end is bent just slightly out. If you scroll down here, you can see it. These places are calling it a drag link, maybe proper terminology is center link. https://shop.rareparts.com/search?year=1950&make=CHRYSLER&model=WINDSOR So to reply to the others, all I have found is Rare Parts that is a direct match. I have been trying to cross reference the drag link to something that is cheaper, hopefully a Moog part. Even it it needed a little tweak to make it work, but I haven't had luck yet. My drag is 26.25 center to center and about 27.5 overall. I also, don't really want to futs around with this part, just want the steering tighter, so I might just bite the bullet and spend the 300. It's also the only area I see the play at. Another thought is to make one that has adjustable ends like a tie rod. Unless adjustable ends are that much more bulky and fitting them in is an issue.

Hey folks, I am shopping for a new drag link for my '50 Windsor and was curious to see if y'all knew where to find a good deal. Best I have found is $300 for a new drag link from Rare Parts (27787), which is a bit ridiculous. Haven't been on forum in a while, so if this should be in classifieds section, apologies.

Finished up my engine swap a few weeks ago. What a difference! This thing is FUN.

Starter 56029274AA fits nice.

Here's a photo of the RAM 2500 starter that was pulled off an A body website,

Little update of where I am with the car. Exhaust is nearly done. I will set how far it comes out after I weld engine into place. Stock starter doesn't fit, "mini" mopar is the one pictured and doesn't fit much better. I found a great one to try, as long as I can use it with a 143 tooth flywheel, Chrysler starter part # 56029274AA (it's out of late model hemi truck with manual trans.)

Jacking up the rear height in conjunction with the front. Made some adjustable rear shackles. Looks nice and high in photo, but the car dropped pretty low after removing blocks even with the new shackles. Springs are only a few years old too. Debating either having them re arched, installing add a leaf or just getting new ones that have more bend to them. I've never used an add a leaf, seems cheapest way.

yup my buddy showed me an even cheaper do it yourself kit. I don't have the patience to do exhaust, it would end up looking like hell. I got a real cheap set of fenderwells that I am gonna cut up.

Yup, not bad, at least they would bolt up ha! I am pretty stuck on making a real fenderwell. Been looking at Patriots and Doug's fenderwell, which aren't made for mopar small blocks. In the process of comparing manifold gaskets to see what's closest to my 340, cause I'll probably buy whatever is closest and hack the flange off. I don't have the patience to make them from scratch. I'm sure I will probably kick myself for not just using what naturally fits.

Pass side upper will need a trim and I will go back and fill in around exhaust with pieces from the lower. http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/villagehooligan/media/image1.jpg.html Driver's side is a one piece inner, going to trim and leave a shelf up front for the battery tray. http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/villagehooligan/media/image1-1.jpg.html http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/villagehooligan/media/image2-1_1.jpg.html Another thought on headers, to hack up a cheap set from another application and weld on the small block mopar flange. I wonder what head is closest to a mopar???

I was thinking the tight truck header might be an option and then I could fab a pipe to turn back up quick and exit thru the inner fender and out and down behind the wheel. I did find some small block fenderwell headers, made by Sanderson, but they cost as much as my engine did. http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson-twister-outside-chassis-header-for-chrysler-small-block.html Waiting on dimensions from the company. My only worry with these are if they come out far enough......and the price. Removed inner lower fender on pass. side. Very easy as it was bolted on. Plenty of room on that side.

Yup, that's the picture I saw but it was missing the lower portion.

Thanks for the input guys. I ordered a thermal clutch orig intended for a 90's Jaguar. It's nice and short compared to an original, think I use 3/4" studs to mount it instead of bolts. Gonna give me leeway with mounting the radiator. I read up on driveline angles and all. My side to side is pretty dead center, front to back is clear. Just that tailshaft angle and pinion to figure after I get the ride height I want. I had no idea that ideally there is supposed to be some angle at output shaft and an equal opposite angle at the pinion. I assumed dead straight was best, WRONG! Apparently U joints need to be "working". I'm searching around for some fenderwell headers cause I gonna do a gasser look with this car, but not a straight axle. They are very hard to find for small block Mopar. Anyone hear of any, please chime in.

Shifter placement looks damn near perfect. Going to have to get one of those angled type of oil filter mounts. Haven't sat the radiator in yet, but it's gonna be close. May have to use a short fan stalk or whatever its called instead of a stock length one. Should I run a fan clutch? Next thing I do is to trim out the inner fender wells. Appears as though the stock battery spot could still be used too.