Dennis46PU

Yes, I have to agree something was wrong and they left the cover off. I have no idea what a column shift transmission looks like in a pilothouse. If the transmission you have posted in your first post is a column shift, it is different from my top loader visually in that the 2nd and 3rd sliding sleeve and synchros looks much different than mine.

Ed, I don't think it's got a bellhousing with it. In fact I haven't seen it in person, just a lot of pictures and conversation with the guy selling it. knuckleharley, the throwout bearing is good, has a spring attached at the top to hold it back when you're off the pedal. I have the trans out trying to get it fixed or replaced. What I did find was minor, but the pilot bushing came out of the crankshaft when I pulled the transmission. Another thing I found and maybe haven't given it much thought is a PO installed the clutch disc backwards. I guess some people don't read what is stamped on the clutch disc before they put it in. I don't know if these 2 things could have had anything related to the sound I am hearing, but if they are I will know when I get it back together because the engine is going to have to wait until I get a replacement. I got a new bushing and installed it ready and waiting for my transmission. z

Los_Control, that picture is showing the driver side of the transmission.. My question is that from a car or a pickup. Not sure of the number for a B Pilothouse truck, but I have a parts book FINALLY for my 46 WC. Pick is a 3 speed in a 41-47 pickup. Might not be the same for a pilothouse.

That looks different from mine, at least the top. What is that out of?

Thanks for the tips, my tool box is always loaded and with me wherever I go. Just a habit over the years of knowing I better have my irons with me all the time. knuckleharley, yeah it does it on and off the clutch. Same sound, so I'm thinking piston. Like I said it is intermittent, sometimes it is on every stroke, sometimes I don't hear it. It will fade in and out.

I was told it was rebuilt about 5 years ago, but it has not been run since then. For the time being I am going to consider it a possible core. If it turns over 4 full revolutions then I will consider buying it. The asking price is reasonable. It has the dipstick in the correct location, oil pan looks correct for me, plus a few other things I noticed looking at pictures. The engine in my truck that I have now has a knock that can be heard intermittently. I've done check of the usual check crank end play, adjust valves, compression test and all of those are ok. So i'm sure it is deep and might need to be pulled. Nonetheless, I want to get a spare and build it to a dependable runner.

Thank you Reg!

Did a search trying to find information on an engine I'm looking at. I couldn't find what I need yet so if somebody could give me some direction where to look I'd appreciate it. I know the engine is from a Plymouth and it is a short engine, 23" long head. The serial number begins with P23 559718. I want to be sure it is at least a 218 and not a 201. A 230 would be a bonus, but I'm n o t holding my hopes too high. I know I could pull the head and measure bore and stroke but the party selling the engine doesn't want to do that.

I noticed that also, remember this is in a 1946 WC pickup and most likely a different transmission. Yes, this is a top loader transmission.

Thanks for those contacts wayfarer. I left messages just now for both. I saw BigM on my way up to Oregon this past summer, but somehow missed it on my way back home, I wanted to stop there and inquire about other parts I'm looking for.

Rockwood, thanks for your help on that. I am leaning towards fixing what I have or a donor. I'd be happy with either a 3 speed or a 4 speed trans donor as long as it fits my housing and pilot bearing release bearing. Does anybody know if the 4 speed from my era, 39 - 47 will fit direct to my clutch housing? This truck sees short runs never more than 10 miles from my house and usually 45 mph tops. Sometimes it will sit for days so I'm not really looking for an upgrade to a T-5 or A833.

So they should look like these?

I agree the T-5 or Ranger would be the better route. A rear axle swap would also be better... I had the chance a few weeks ago to grab a 5 speed from a Ranger, should have done a little more research and serious thought to it.

After WW.II. shortage of chrome and stainless.

Congradulations on your new addition! Your truck looks to be a blackout model, meaning very littls chrome available when it was built. The easiest way to find the original color I found is to remove the cover plates inside the cab top of windshield. Good luck!

I'm trying to decide what to do with my worn out transmission. It's a floor shift 3 speed. It was locking up on me going home from the hardware store tonight, couldn't get it to shift. I pulled the top off and found nothing wrong with the shift tower, fork is straight and everything shifts as it should as far as I can see without popping the rivets out to check the springs. The syncronizers are obviously shot as well third gear, see the wear in the picture. I need to get a parts book or find somebody with part numbers to look around for gears and bearings. I'm just not sure about cost for parts would make it worth my time and effort. Maybe a good used trans out there would be an easy fix for now. Anybody's help and or suggestions are appreciated.

My receptacle is for a phone or periferal changer only, no smoking allowed in my truck. I don't know of anybody that makes a charger to plug in a receptacle that is positive ground. Many reasons I changed to 12 volt negative ground. None of my gauges worked. I lost patience trying to find good working original gauges and swapped all of them out. Modern gauges, phone charger, lights, turn signals, starter, ignition (pertronix even though they make all in 6 or 12 volt positive and negative ground for each voltage), all work better now. When I got this truck I really wanted to keep it 6 volt positive ground, correct wire size and color all cloth wrapped, but there were just too many down sides to keep my interest in 6 volt positive ground.

I know this much, those cigarette lighter chargers don't like positive ground. As far as the starter on 12 volts, I've been running my 6volt positive ground original starter on 12 volts negative ground for several months now. I was concerned about rotation by going to negative ground and that was discussed in a thread I started - no problems. I have my engine tuned to start about as fast as I can get off the foot pedal.

I noticed in one of your pictures it appears there is a hole to access the fuel tank sending unit? Is this something the factory did, or was it done by a PO? I don't remember seeing that on mine.

And sometimes a NOS part can be found on ebay. That's where I got my switch the middle of July this year. Fits and works perfect.

That's a real shame you did that as there are ways of working around them taking your data plate. I see you have California plates. I went to a private entity to have my vin inspected and get a title. The vin on the previous owners title was only matching the engine block which looks like either Forest or Jethrow stamped it in. I'm certain my engine is not original. Anyway they were able to issue me a title with the numbers from my cab data plate that matched the frame serial number in all of 2 weeks which is near unheard of in this state. Is DMV going to return your data plate? I have heard of another owner of a 1949 truck that took his in to get it titled and registered, they removed his data plate and issued his title as a 2016 model year. That just doesn't seem right to me.

So can I assume you are using a water heat plate on your intake manifold? Are you running a stock intake?

Please post pictures and details of EFI.

What changes to your carburetors did you make? Rejet them?

So what are the differences between a 218 and 230?