Harvie

Thanks very much everyone - I'll see what I can find in the morning when the shops open. Sorry for the confusion.

I am going to take the assembly apart this weekend if I have time - the drawing in the parts list shows the bushing as one piece. perhaps we are talking about two different things. I will see if I can provide diagram om what I am referring to.

Thanks very much I was afraid that I would have to get them fabricated and it would be difficult to get them to fit.

I have a C39 with the straight 8. I have a rebuilt IND Engine in it now. On information plate on the engine it says it was manufactured in Windsor, Ontario. I will be very interested to discuss rebuild issues with you and the terrible time that I have had. If it were not for the help and guidance of an excellent member of this forum I don't know what I would have done.

Brake pedal on my C39 New Yorker squeaks and when I greased it I found that there was play in the shaft. It looks like a replacement shaft is available but I cant find the bushings. Does anyone know where these can be obtained?

Hello Bryan - I have a 1947 New Yorker and I just spent a very enjoyable moment on a very cold January day here in Winnipeg reading this thread. You certainly did an awesome job! Any updates? I am always interested in the adventures of the Chrysler straight 8 guild.

Hello Pflaming - what disc brake conversion kit did you use?

Hello Bob - what disc brake conversion kit did you use?

Hello Doug&Deb - glad to hear that you are getting out on the road! I try to drive my 1947 Chrysler NY every day that there isn't snow on the ground. Living in Winnipeg that makes for a lot of time in the garage. What disc brake conversion kit did you use?

Well gentlemen - all I can say is that the plugs are clean, engine runs smoother and no more black oil now that I am using regular gas instead of premium. Just putting that out there in case anyone was having the same trouble. Thanks for your comments I appreciate it.

Just following up on this issue - dirty oil and plug carbon was caused by foolishly listening to local car guys and using premium gasoline. I now use regular and there is not problem.

Fluid Drive unit for my 1947 Chrysler New Yorker is leaking and needs to be overhauled. Can anyone recommend a good experienced shop that I can ship it to for rebuild?

Just an update for the record. I bought a new in the box stromberg carb off ebay and just had it installed by the shop that just finished installing a completely rebuilt straight 8 - it runs great! But....during the rebuild process when they removed the fluid coupling unit they noticed that one of the internal bearings (through the centre) was loose and moving freely. They couldn't re-install it that way and I had a spare unit which they installed in its place. I took it for a test drive today and it is making an intermittent chirping noise. At the shop they used a stethescope to identify that the noise is coming from the fluid coupling unit - although it is impossible to isolate the unit from the engine to be positive. Car drives well and shifts etc - but the noise doesn't go away and seems to get louder as the car heats up. I see a new fluid coupling unit in my future. Any ideas? Where can I get a fluid coupling unit rebuilt?

Thanks very much Dodgeb4ya! This is not the first time that you have greatly helped me and I really appreciate it. I couldn't find any diagrams or drawings of this tube adapter assembly anywhere.

Thanks Dodgeb4ya - very helpful information. The air cleaner mounting tube adapter that you speak of that bolts to the square air horn of this type of carburetor makes it very difficult to get a tight seal with the oil bath air cleaner assembly that I have on this car. Perhaps I am missing a part? It seems that with a circular air horn the air cleaner assembly attaches to the air horn with a concave "c" clamp that fits around the ridge that runs along the outer circumference at the top of the air horn. The clamp is tightened onto the air horn usually with a long bolt with a circular handle at the non threaded making it easy to loosen the clamp by hand and remove the air cleaner assembly when needed. This system seems to create a pretty tight seal between the air horn and the air cleaner and most of the air sucked in by the carburetor must go through the air cleaner. In the case of the square air horn and the air cleaner mounting tube adapter there is no tight seal as there is a gap because the air cleaner doesn't fit tightly around the tube and air can be easily sucked in at the bottom of the air cleaner by-passing the oil bath filter. Is there supposed to be gasket or grommet that seals the bottom of the air cleaner firmly to the top of the air horn or around the tube?

I took off the air cleaner and this is indeed an AAVS-2 Srtomberg 2BBL carburetor number 4-111A. It looks like there are several places where I can get rebuild kits for AAVS-2 2BBL carburetor number 4-111. Is there a difference between number 4111 and 4111A?

Thanks everyone. I am taking off the air cleaner to get a good look at the part number. From pictures that I have seen online it look like the number is stamped on the side of the flange. Seems like there may be some carb kits available out there out there but I will meed to make sure. I am guessing that the 2BBL carb produces better performance is that right? If so why did they change it to the smaller carb?

I bought a 324 straight 8 engine block and it is at the machine shop now while they clean it and accumulate the parts for the rebuild. The block is from a 1949 New Yorker and I would like to put it into my 1947 New Yorker which currently has a Chrysler Industrial 8 with a Stromberg 2 barrel carburetor. I have noticed that there don't seem to be any carburetor re-build kits for this particular carb but that there are kits available for the Carter 1 barrel carburetor which was used on the later 1947 New Yorkers and subsequent years. Does anyone know if there are kits for the Stromberg? Should I go with the Carter? Which one is the better?

That's for sure! I want to drain the transmission and fill it with #134. I bought the car 3 years ago and the previous owner has now passed away, therefore I don't know and can't find out what kind of lube fluid is already in there. I certainly don't want to damage the unit at all and I am uncertain about how the #134 will react with the remnants of any fluid left in the transmission after I drain it. Should I be concerned about this? Should I flush out the transmission with some solvent before I put in the #134? Am I overthinking this?

Thanks Dodgeb4ya! I always really appreciate your excellent help and advice.

Thanks - and can you please clarify if it is correct to use the #134 instead of 10W in the gear box?

Thanks Dodgeb4ya - you are right I should have said fluid coupling - I was afraid to call it the "Fluid Drive". Just to be clear - I can put #134 into the transmission gear box instead of 10W oil?

Looked at shop manual and it calls for 10W oil for transmission. I note that Universal Tractor oil #134 is stated in the technical specs part of this website to be the proper fluid for the torque converter and it also says that this same fluid is used in some manual transmissions instead of lube oil. Any thoughts on what I must use in my transmission?

Thanks very much everyone. So, just to be clear, the MAX 4045A starter cannot be used on a 1947 New Yorker is that right? However, a lot of the internal components of the starter motor are the same as the MAX 4050. But, the MAX 4050 and the MAX 4045A have different Solenoids (is solenoid called the "switch" in the chart that Chrysler1941 provided?). Further, is the "starter pinion nose housing" that Dodgeb4ya is referencing part of the Solenoid/Switch or is it part of the starter? Sorry you guys but you are way over my head! I really appreciate your help.