dmartin_egroup

I have a 1937 Plymouth four-door sedan with a P-19 engine (Pretty sure P-19 is stamped on it, the car is not here right now). I need/want Mopar part numbers for many of the parts, and also illustrations. I don''t have a P-19 parts book). Many folks have had their hands on this engine, and the water pump is a collection of generic parts, some correct for P-19, some not. I searched this web site some time ago, but did not get clear list of parts I should be using. I know there are differences in the pump's main body casting, the impeller, the pump's back cover plate, and other parts. Also, a diagram of heater hoses for the P-19 car would be good so I can get mine routed correctly and not create unwanted bypasses or other errors. Sorry, this is a complicated paragraph, but I am afraid my cooling system is somewhat of a mess. Thanks for help, even possibly identifying other internet sources! Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

Hi: Regarding a couple of the posts in this topic, If you have a flat tire, realize that the axle or whatever part you want to put the jack under, will be a lot closer to the ground than normal. Measure the available space from axle to ground when you have a flat tire! The jack will have to fit in there or will not work. Also plan on a block to make a large base to set under the jack if ground is soft. Also, carry blocks or some type of wheel chocks, at least enough to place in front AND behind one of the tires on opposite side of car from the flat. When you start turning the lug nuts on a rear wheel, often the car will try to move forward or back, since many of our vehicles's parking brake prevents the drive shaft from turning but the rear wheels can still be rotated if one is off the ground. Just food for thought. Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

For the front brake drums, you can use a side grinder and cut a notch in a spare drum, so a feeler gauge can be slipped in to measure shoe clearance. I simply put the spare drum on temporarily while I get the shoes adjusted, then put the regular drum back on. This will work if the spare drum is the same inside diameter as the normal drum you will be driving with. For rear drums with tapered axle shaft, not so easy to do the switch. Maybe someone else has a good method for adjusting the rear shoes, although the method described by darenfroe is pretty good! Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

Hi, Dpollo: Would I be applying ground or battery voltage using my clip lead?? Thanks for assistance! Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

The fuel gauge on my 1937 Plymouth car is not indicating tank level. When ignition key is off, gauge is pegged below the empty mark. When I turn the key on, the pointer moves up to the empty mark, but no further. It did this today after I topped off the fuel tank. Therefore I say the gauge is not dead, but is not indicating correct level. Can anyone tell from these symptoms what things I should check, and in what order? Thanks much! (Oh, by the way, I did have a nice ride around the countryside today, gauge or not!) Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

To KnuckleHarley: You referred to engine backfire. I see the term backfire now and then but I don't know what a backfire really is. Please describe!!!

Just an opinion- I would use an engine degreaser product (Gunk is a good one). NOT oven cleaner, as many of those oven products will ruin your under-hood paint. Dennis in W. Tenn.

My 1945 Dodge pickup only has a key lock on the right (passenger) side door. When parking parallel on city streets, entering or exiting on the left (driver) side was dangerous, since a passing car or truck might easily hit you! When I was a young driver in the 1950s, parking on the side of the street was very common. Many residential areas had narrow lots, so no garage on side of house; no alleys so no garages in back of house. So the only thing to do was parallel park in the street. That's why cars had bumpers, and many of them were battered looking. It was a different world, trust me! Dennis in W. Tenn.

Thanks for the information on Parts Geek Gates pump. My used replacement runs quiet, which was an improvement, but it started leaking coolant, dripping around the front of housing around the shaft. I may still need to buy a better pump. The Gates seems like a good deal.

Third installment on my water pump story. I removed the pump with the bad (noisy) fan/pulley hub. I examined another used pump that had been removed from the car a year ago because it seemed noisy. I found the impeller was rubbing slightly against the inside of the pump's back cover plate. I installed a thicker gasket and it seemed o.k. I installed it on the car and it runs with no noise! Excellent!! I will run the car for a few hundred miles before I say it is really fixed, but at present I am optimistic.

More info. on the water pump: I found the hub was not broken, but the whole hub was loose on the shaft. The hub is supposed to be a press fit on the shaft, and a pin about 1/8 inch diameter is pressed into a cross-drilled hole. Something about mine was not right, because the hub was making a chirping noise for many months, finally getting much louder; the loudness caused me to shut down yesterday and examine in detail. I have two other pumps, I will look at tomorrow (or later...) Dennis in W. Tennessee

My 1937 Plymouth 4-door has had a noise in engine front area for some time.. I thought maybe generator bearing, maybe water pump bearing, maybe squeaky belt??? Today it seemed much louder when I drove the car, so I shut it down and I found the water pump pulley and fan are loose. Both parts are bolted to a flange on front of water pump hub. The flange seems to have broken away from the main body of the hub. Hard to see clearly, and the weather is too hot to work on a hot engine today anyway. But at least now I know what I will be working on! Luckily I have one or two spare water pumps, so I may find the part I need right in my attic. I am glad the fan did not hit the radiator! I will try to post more as I make progress. D. Martin in W. Tennessee

Not sure upload worked, since I don't see my picture. My 1937 Plymouth 4-dr sedan and 1945 Dodge WC 1/2 ton. Both restored by an amateur (me) to look original.

Yahoo groups still exist. The login screen I get when I type in "groups dot yahoo dot com" shows the letters ATT before the word Yahoo. I was suspicious of this, i did not want to log in to ATT which I know little about. However, I tried logging in using my existing Yahoo user name and password. It worked, and seems to be the same Yahoo groups I was accustomed to. HOWEVER, I did discover later that my Yahoo email has downloaded several (or all) my email accounts' messages in one huge glob. 236 messages, shown as unread. I rarely use my Yahoo email, now it is a conglomeration of all my emails together. I did not ask for this!!!!! The Yahoo email is now apparently called ATT_Yahoo email or similar.

Help- anyone! I like the p15-d24 forum, but also have had membership in about two dozen Yahoo groups. Suddenly I see "ATT" when I try to call up the Yahoo groups site. My list of groups I belong to is not available to me. Any help in regaining my access to the Yahoo groups would be greatly appreciated. D. Martin in West Tennessee

Hammering on the head of the puller main screw, I am quite sure will do harm to the axle thrust bearings.

I have read the tech post about internal/external bypass differences and I am confused. I have two 6 cyl flatheads, one is a 1949 Plymouth (by the serial prefix on engine) The other is a 1945 Dodge WC pickup with its original engine (again, going by the serial prefix on engine). I have two spare water pumps for these engines. One spare pump is missing the flat metal plate that covers the back of the pump. The other spare has the plate on it. My question is in regard to a hole in this back plate, about 1/4 inch diameter, roughly centered on the area of the impeller. Is this hole in the back plate part of a bypass system? In the past, I have had the pumps off both of my vehicles but I don't recall seeing the 1/4 inch hole in either of those pumps. Thanks for any help! Dennis in West Tennessee