Charles Furman

Anyone know where I can get the 4" air intake hose that runs from the air intake unit by the lower right side of the radiator to the flapper valve on the firewall for a fresh air supply to the heater on a Pilothouse truck? It is similar to the hoses used for dryer vents, but I done want aluminum look.

Jeremy, I got covers for my 1948 and 1949 Dodge B1 woodies at California Car Covers. They had patterns on file. Probably was the same pattern as used for the Panel Truck. If they don't seem to know what you are talking about, have them look up my name and see what they sent me. Charles Furman

I am keeping both of my Dodge B1B woodies stock, but I have a 50 Desoto that I want to modify while keeping the original outward appearance. It currently has a 318 motor with an automatic transmission. Everything else appears to be stock. When I am done I want a mild rocketship with a smooth ride and great stopping power. I am open to all suggests about where to go for info and ideas. Thanks in advance, Charles Furman

What heavier drag link did you use? Do you know what model truck it came from?

Reg, I just had another thought regarding the mileage question. I bet that the wood body on my woodie weighs twice what the rear half of the cab and the bed on a stock pilothouse pickup weigh. Means I have to push more pedal to keep it moving, especially on hills. Charles

Mike, What do you mean when you say that the drag link had play in it? It is just a steel bar. How can it have play? Do you mean that it flexed? Please elaborate. Charles

I changed the rear-end to a 3.73 from a late 40's or early fifties Mopar car. I wouldn't go much higher than that with the stock motor. The hills would just be too tough.

Thanks, I may just take you up on your kind offer. Email me a phone number that I can call you on after my grandson's annual visit is over in a couple of weeks. My email address is charlesfurman@cox.net.

Any suggestions as to where I can get a completely rebuilt steering box for my B1B108 truck? I really don't want to have to send my existing box out to be rebuild because I am driving the truck fairly regularly now and I really enjoy it, so I don't want the down time. The truck tracks pretty true, but does have a little play and it is adjusted as tight as it can go without binding. The biggest problem comes when I am driving highways that have those rain groves or are just plain bumpy. I really get a lot of road wander. I am assuming this is not normal. Also, do I have to replace the steering column when I replace the box? Thanks for any help you can offer. Charles Furman

I guess I got lucky. It apparently had been in a barn for quite a while. I bought it in December 2000, and it was last registered in Woodstock NY in 1984. In fact, it still had the 1984 NY State safety inspection decal on the windshield. My wife and I have often wondered if it could have been used to haul people to and from the 1969 concert at Woodstock. That would add a bit of history to it.

I didn't check the mileage for the whole trip, but based on the few tanks I did check, I figure I averaged between 13 and 14 mpg. I don't know if that is good or bad. When I was driving my 1949 Plymouth woodie in high school, gas was 22 cents a gallon so I never checked the mileage.

I thought some of you might be interested in my recent adventure with one of my Pilothouse trucks. I drove my 1949 Dodge B1B108 Woodie from Oceanside, CA to Santa Cruz, CA for the annual Woodies on the Wharf woodie meet. I completed a long restoration in September of 2007, with the only modification from stock being disk brakes on the front. The odometer read 844 miles as I left for Santa Cruz. It read 1798 miles when I returned 5 days later. During the 954 mile trip I covered every kind of driving. Up hills, down hills, two lane roads and five lane freeways thru Los Angeles. I drove up over three days, but the return trip was done in 9 hours 45 minutes with three shorts stops for gas, snacks, and bathroom. During the whole trip the oil pressure sat firmly at 50 lbs. and the temperature never exceeded 165 degrees. At the end of the trip the oil is down almost 1/2 quart. As you might imagine, I was very pleased. The one lesson I did learn was that you should never drive a stock Pilothouse truck 9+ hours straight, it takes its toll your body. Here is a link to a picture of the truck in line for the cruise in Santa Cruz on Sunday morning. http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2275725650103698832MCSdKi

Yeah, I hate February too. It barely made it up to 60 degrees today. Charles Oceanside, CA Sorry, I just had to do that.

I looked at both stamping and casting, and I am not sure that the material is really the issue, but I am no expert. There may be a cheaper way. The way I understand it, the cost is 98% in the tooling or cast making and 2% in the production. If someone can figure this out it would be great.

I had looked into repopping them, but to get the cost down to a reasonable level (less than $100) we would have had to order hundreds of them. The market just wasn't there. You could make something that looked similar, but an exact copy with all the bends and curves is very difficult, or so I am told. If someone can actually repop this bracket, I would commit to buying two of them for up to $150 each. I would pay more for an original in restorable condition. I also have an original 1948 or 1949 Dodge B1 Series Special Equipment Book that shows all the special equipment that could be purchased or added to Dodge trucks (1/2 ton to 3 ton) that year. It includes everything from bus, ambulance, dump bodies to bumpers, power take offs, etc. I only know of two of these original books, and of course, Reg Evans has the other one. Reg and I both paid around $300 each for these books many years back. I would be willing to swap this book for an original flat passenger side mirror bracket. If you can help me with this quest, feel free to email me direct at charlesfurman@cox.net or call me on my cell at 760-213-9313. Thanks again, Charles

I am interested in obtaining a passenger side stock mirror bracket for a 48-49 Dodge B1B108 truck. This is the flat stock bracket that mounts on the door hinge, not the round rod type. I will pay top dollar or trade other B-series parts or memorabilia for one. Don't be too shy about asking a lot. It is the last thing I need to complete my 1949 Dodge B1B108 Woodie. Current picture attached. The only one I know of belongs to Reg Evans. Maybe Reg would be kind enough to post a picture of his, so everyone could see what I am looking for. Thanks, Charles

I went to my local NAPA parts house and asked the counter guy for a set of shocks for a 1948 Dodge B1B108 truck. I even took the old shocks in with me. You would think I had asked him for a condom for an elephant. He had no idea where to start. Anyone got any part numbers for NAPA or anywhere else? Any other suggestions on where I should try? Thanks, Charles Furman

I have a 1949 Dodge B1B108 with a stock 3 speed transmission with a floor shift. Are there any bolt on overdrive units that can be used with this transmission? If not, what are the other alteranatives available to me? Thanks for any info or advice. Charles Furman

Can anyone give me any sound advice for stopping oil leaks that occur at the drain plugs (engine and transmission), or do all 40-50's vehicles leak some oil?

Ken, I think your taillight housing and license plate bracket were stock Dodge items that were send with your windshield cowl chassis to the J. T. Cantrell & Co. where the woodie boy was put on. The hinged bracket that the housing is mounted on was most built and provided by Cantrell (I have seen this hinged bracket on Cantrell bodied truck woodies on Dodge, Chevrolet, and GMC chassis. As an aside, GM trucks used the same hinged bracket, but used a StopRay taillight housing like the ones used on the General Motors panel trucks. Your taillight lens is not original. The original lens says DODGE across it. Here's a picture of the original taillight that has been on my 1948 Dodge B1B108 Cantrell Woodie since it was new. I hope this helps. Charles Furman

Merle, When I went thru the same thing you are doing, I did as follows: 1. Bought NOS speedometer with "0" miles. About $100 2. Bought NOS guages. About $30 each. (As someone else said, your amp guage is just fine the way it is) 3.Tossed the old speedometer (actually, still have it) 4. Drilled out the ring grommets on the guage bezel. 5. Cleaned the bezel glass. 6. Rechromed the bezel. About $25 7. Repainted the black and white parts of the guage housing with rattle cans. About $6 8. Installed NOS guages and reassembled guage assembly using ring grommets and tool Don Coatnet referred to. About $5 Grand total for me was under $300. Prices may have gone up a bit over the past few years, but you only need three of the four gauges. I hope this helps. Charles Furman

There a couple of your fellow countrymen from down under on this board who post pictures of utes all the time. I am sure one of them will chime in to help answer your questions. Gidday mate, Charles

Mike, I just sent you an email about the carburetor parts. I will take you up on your kind offer. Don, Thanks for the info. If things don't work out with Mike for any reason I will give your guy a call. Everyone, This is why this site is so cool. Thanks to all. Charles

When I disassembled and cleaned my Carter B&B carburetor off my B1B Dodge I found that the little flat spring that holds the float pivot rod in place is broken and the float has a one inch hairline crack it it which allows it to fill with gasoline. Any idea where to start lookinmg for replacement parts? The NAPA rebuild kit doesn't contain either of these parts. Thanks for any help you can offer.

The only replacement cowl vent seal that works worth a damn is from Vintage Power Wagons.