Bobandy

Wow, I had forgotten about the length of the rod... It so happens that my carburetor was changed to a Carter and the rod was about an inch longer than the one on it now. I didn't change the carb but I know it was changed. It wasn't working well at all... seemed like it had no chance of working due to the rod length. Then I found a 49 Plymouth at the local Salvage yard with a rod that was obviously shorter and straight. It measures just a hair over 5 and 3/8 inches. I believe the carb was also a Carter. Looks like changing the brand of Carb requires one to be sure the rod length is compatible. Bob

OK. I'll re-post a picture of my choke on my 52 Dodge. It works correctly now that I have the correct linkage and rebuilt the coil section on top as well has tearing it all apart and generally cleaning it up. If you look close you can see the brass shaft with the actuating arm attached. Bob

I saw my Dad kill a 4 cyl engine one time by grabbing all 4 spark plugs at once. I've never tried it and don't plan to. Bob

Thanks James, If this one doesn't work out for some reason... I'll come knocking... Bob

There is no Sission Choke in these pictures.... The choke is mounted on the back side of the carb. Hey, on a 52 Dodge Coronet the sisson choke is definitely mounted on the exhaust manifold and located in front of the carb with linkage from the choke to the carb.

Yes... Well actually it's on the way. should have it soon.. Thanks for asking... Bob

Thanks James.... That does make sense. I'm a little surprise that there isn't some documentation of that in our manuals... Oh well... life must go on. Thanks again, Bob

Thanks for the info. That probably means there was only one Spreading spring in my "tranny in a box" because there was only one in use. I did notice that the snap ring was missing from the front bearing which allowed the pilot shaft to move backwards into the transmission. The stop Ring was cracked (been replaced), I think due to this and it probably destroyed the spreading spring as well. Regardless, I need to find a new spring. Your information probably explains why the spreading spring does not show in the diagram in my shop manual. Thanks again, Bob

Don, I wonder how many places we have in the states that rebuild pressure Plates and clutch disc. There is one about an hour north of me located in Jonesburg, Missouri. It's also a little bit colorful.... Colorful but I didn't feel I was in any danger. The guy that ran the shop is called "SNAKE" by everyone in the place. In this case it didn't seem to be a place for just local customers. It had an office building that received and sent out jobs from all over. Snake only ran the shop where all the actual work occurred. For those that might be interested it's called Unique Automotive Rebuilders. Bob

Hey Guys, A couple years ago or so I needed a Fluid Drive 3 speed transmission... I now have a good transmission installed and operational. In the process of searching, I also picked up a "transmission in a box" (no joke) that was suppose to be complete... only needed to be reassembled. Well, I'm still trying to find parts to finish it up (will keep as a backup). The only thing I'm missing is a couple of Spreader Springs that pair with the Synchronizer Stop Rings. At first I didn't know the name of this part.. I found it (the name) in an old Chilton Repair Manual. The transmission breakdown in my Dodge repair manual doesn't show these spreader springs at all. I'm guessing (don't know for sure) that each stop ring must be paired with a spreader spring.... The transmission is 49 - 52 Dodge and probably others... I don't currently have a Parts manual. Plan on ordering one soon. Bottom line, I'm looking for a couple of these spreader springs. Anyone happen to have a couple that you could spare or know of a good source?? I have both Stop Rings and they are in good shape. Thanks, Bob

Busse's Junk Yard... His phone number is 636-257-5112... The interior of the 49 has been burned due to an accident in the yard but since you will be machining the thing anyway.... it should work fine. (Bob)

Guru, Not sure exactly what you're needing.... but, I do know where there are a couple of old Plymouths in a salvage yard I visit occasionally. On is a 49 Plymouth which has been burned except for the engine compartment (gas tank accident) and a 52 Plymouth fully intact.... The next time I'm at this yard I'll take a closer look at the steering wheel on both cars for you... It's located in Robertsville, MO ( in the same state at least) about 10 minutes from Pacific, MO. If you think the Steering wheel off either car will help you just let me know... Don't know how much the guy will ask... (( Bob ))

Hey... just caught the reference to the blue in the background... That's my 49 Ford two Door Custom... I agree, the Dodge is more classy.... Bob

Phil, I'm still learning about posts... Not sure I can add the photo... anyway, the other end of the wire is attached to the starter side of the starter solenoid. At least that's where I attached it. The choke coil should receive current at the same time the starter receives current . Hmmm... It didn't work.

Phil, I'm still learning about posts... Not sure I can add the photo... anyway, the other end of the wire is attached to the starter side of the starter solenoid. At least that's where I attached it. The choke coil should receive current at the same time the starter receives current . I think I got it added finally... When I see this solenoid, I'm embarrassed that I haven't changed it. Anyway, you see where the other end is attached. It could also be attached at the starter end of the big wire going to the starter. Was less effort to attach it where I placed it.

I call it "Maroon"... A previous owner did the basic re-store and didn't provide a lot of details. I've change out the Gyro-matic for a 3pd Std and retained the Fluid Drive. I've put a fuel pump on it, replaced the manifold gaskets and rebuilt the choke. It needs a total front end rebuilt. At my age, I'm hoping to get a grand son to help me with the front end rebuild. He doesn't know that yet. Bob

Hey, It's only been a year... maybe close to two years, but finally I'm sharing a few photos of my Dodge... I've also included a single photo of my recently repaired choke with a now working electromagnetic coil (replaced by a coil from a starter solenoid)... Bob

Looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. Wish my interior was this nice. Lucky You. Congrats...

Dave, I saw a 49 Plymouth in a junk yard a couple of days ago... I wanted the Sisson choke from it. I didn't notice where the exhaust exited or even if it was solid (no cracks). I didn't see any obvious cracks... The car is about 40 minutes from me. One negative thing... the brass 7/16 bolts holding the sisson choke twisted off when I removed it. Junk yard is in Robertsville Missouri. If you are interested, PM me for the guy's phone number. OR, if you aren't in a big hurry... I'll be out that way sometimes next week and I can check it more closely ... Bob (Bobandy)

Thanks to Donald and Rich... I now understand a lot better as to how the Sisson choke works... I check the alignment of the little hole and the slot in the bottom of the case and it's perfect... and at the same time the choke butterfly is completely closed (engine cold)... When you start the engine (which happens very quickly), the choke butterfly springs about 1/3 of the way open and continues to open as the Sisson warms up. I'm a little concerned that it opens a little to slowly... I may experiment a bit by placing a 1/2 diameter hole in the middle of the gasket to allow the Sisson to warn up a bit faster... Thanks again to the experts on this group... Bob

Rich... Yes the choke butterfly does close when the engine is cold and you press the accelerator, and the butterfly opens when the engine warms up. The butterfly doesn't close firmly due to the bad coil winding but it does close. I did have to adjust the choke actuating arm towards the front of the car. The old connecting rod had no chance of working so I make a new one. I'm sure I didn't follow the correct procedure in adjusting the actuating arm but it does seem to work. Is the small hole in the base a vent hole? I assumed so. I'm very interested in knowing if anyone has tried to either rewind the coil on top or had someone do it... I've even thought about trying to use the coil portion of an old six volt starter solenoid... may try that... Bob

Hello all, I don't post much but recently I've changed the manifold gaskets on my 52 Dodge Coronet. The intake portions were leaking enough that it was running rough... poor acceleration, etc. Runs better now. While I had the manifold off I removed the choke... The coil part was bad and I wasn't sure about the bi metal part either... Then I found one on ebay that looked exactly like mine, so I bought it. After installing it, it didn't seem to be working at all... arm didn't seem to be moving at all (in the direction to open the choke). Then I disconnect rod that connects to the arm and it immediately jumped about a 1/4 inch in the wrong direction. OOPS, I recalled reading about the early (before 49 chokes) that set on the manifold behind the carb. I assumed that was exactly what I had. After thinking about it a while, I removed the choke and reinstalled it backwards and made a new connecting rod. Now it opens the choke gradually as the manifold heats up. Is this botched up approach going to work correctly in the long run? Opinions... Also, I would love for the elec coil part to work as well... has anyone ever tried to re-wind the coil on one of these guys... Regards, Bob (Bobandy)

OK... Love the chatter back and forth, but lets say you do want better quality panels, etc.. Is there a source or sources available??

I have one of these switches from a Gyromatic out of my 52 Dodge Coronet that I do not need. I tested it with an ohm meter and it checks ok (if I'm doing it right). Depressing the ball gives you 0.2 ohms between the two terminals and not depressed gives you the OPEN condition. I don't know whether it will work for you or not given it's out of my 52 Dodge... I replaced the Gyro with a Std 3 speed and retained the fluid drive, etc.. Bobandy

Yes. I have one just like that on my 52 Dodge Coronet. It's the center molding on the windshield. Fits vertically with the molded end fitting over the bottom pieces running along the bottom of the windshield. I can probably take a pic if you want to see it. Mine of course is all pitted where yours in new. Let me know if you want to see the pic. Bob