mike00

it may be a setup with 6V points, are they the original style points?

in order to use a six volt alternator to charge a 12 volt system, while still charging the six volt system, you could add something like this, to double the voltage, note the ripple frequency is half what it was before, making the ripple voltage (little sawtooth looking bit on the waveform towards the output) double what it is using it for 6v also this system could be used with a large capacitor and no second battery if not too much current is required at 12V, but without a battery, all 12V power would be dead when the motor isnt running.

what i meant when i said "If you wanted to use a 12V battery, you could actually charge it off of a 6V alternator" was that you can, an alternator typically works as such, frequency being a multiple of engine speed the alternators probally a three phase design, but the ideas the same (just uses more diodes)

No, Two six volts batteries, The main battery is always hooked up as normal. The Auxiliry battery can either be charged in parallel with the main system, or can add the 6 volts above ground to make 12 for the accessories. but not both at the same time.

unlike a generator, an alternator alternates current, and voltage.... AC. its rectified making pics now

http://p15-d24.com/gallery/image/1890-aux-battery-6-12v/

Thats a good way to do it. If you wanted to use a 12V battery, you could actually charge it off of a 6V alternator (but not a 6v generator) at the same time as the 6v (original voltage plus 6v+). I like your way too. if you wanted you could add a switch something like this... (see pic) of course you wouldn't be able to use your 12V stuff while charging, but you could charge it without hooking it up to a charger. resistor value depends on charge limit, which depends on charge rate - - depends on how sturdy of a switch, alternator capacity, battery condition, etc. - - - the switch is a "double pole double throw" (dpdt) switch NON-SHORTING (or "break before make") type contacts - - using shorting or "make before break" types will burn something also its never a bad idea to throw fuses in there wherever they seem to fit

I'm still looking for a nice '50 Meadowbrook or Coronet. I could do without it, but after I find one and check it over and everything, I'll probally add a 12V conveinence outlet just for random accessories.

thanks for the pics meadowbrook. did everything you needed come in that kit? also how reliable/troublesome are the gyromatics?

....." it was my understanding that while they both had the same fluid coupler " ....." marketed as "fluid drive" " ....." ones called "gyro-matic" " @ Dan - I know

i found another vechicle i might be interested in instead, a 1950 coronet (a huge change in plans) i have a couple questions about this car 1 - is there any such thing as the owner describes "three on the tree and an automatic option"? it was my understanding that while they both had the same fluid coupler, the transmissions marketed as "fluid drive" were three on the tree while the ones called "gyro-matic" have two ranges, each of which automatically shift between two gears. and that the "fluid drive" was more common on the meadowbrook, while the "gyro-matic" was more common on the coronets. is this correct? was there any other options in a 1950 coronet? 2 - did any of these come from the factory with a sun visor? (outside type)

also solid-state regulators exist. voltage can be dropped by diodes as well (zener diodes would work best) plus you dont have to worry about (probally minute anyway) changes in current, due to changes in resistance, due to things like temperature, load (how much water wipers are moving, and at what speed your traveling (wind pressure on the glass.) )

@meadowbrook - i cant see the picture of your dual-master brake cylinder setup. could you re-post it? @doug - if it's a flathead motor i doubt higher octane would run much different. (at least not if its anywhere near stock)

thank you all for sharing your experience with me. i will be sure, when i get under there, and check the usuals, to pay special attention to the tail of the frame. i do believe that the cowl vents were indeed leaking on this car, as the owner told me that the front floor is rotted, but the body looks pretty good. hopefully the frame in that area wont be rusted to the point of weakening. also, how hard are the vents to repair? sorry that the dual master kit is not available for the '42's. if its not too completely different, maybe you could suggest a design to eci. apparently thats what meadowbrook's boss did and they made it i will definately check the vin against the title..... twice i do intend on going through the brakes completely, (even though i hear the rear drums can be a chalenge to remove) i hadnt really thought about going through the fuel system, but it sounds like a good idea. what would you use to treat the inside of a gas tank? i hate that i cant find fuel without ethanol around me anymore. there used to be in a lot of places, then a few, now i cant find any. ethanol gas is more prone to catch condensation and besides being worse gas mileage in any condition, i believe it burns hotter, and it seems especially bad for small engines. (or just more noticeably bad) example---my father has had chainsaws, leaf blowers, weed eaters (a few of each) for years and years, he's had a lot more trouble with them in the past 5 years, than in the last 20 before that. i was thinking about mixing some marvel in the gas for this engine. good idea? bad idea? please share. anyhow, i appreciate the advice once again. anyone else who would like to share their experiences on typical problem areas of frame rot/weaknesses on these cars, i'd apprecite it.

any spots i should pay extra close attention to? (spots that rust more, or are prone to being weakened really bad by rust) i know theres going to be some rust on it, am i just looking to make sure it's doesn't look like a sheeding alligator under there?

it's good to know that the dual master conversion is feasable. what should i look for when i check this car out? what would you be looking for/at when inspecting a car like this that you're considering buying? (unless you're like Mr.Meadowbrook who got his for a dollar, in which case, i bet all he was looking for was the title!) seriously though, any telling signs of problems on weakpoints of this model? i do like this information http://oldcarbrochures.org/NA/Dodge/1950-Dodge/1950-Dodge-Coronet-and-Meadowbrook

thank you all for your comments, advice, opinions, and general interest. sounds like a dual-master upgrade would be a pretty big and/or expensive job. good to know the fluid-drive's (three speed manual, fluid-coupled) are strong trannys. anything in peticular i should look for in this vechicle? when i check it out real good? when i test drive it? please let me know anything that comes to mind (even if minor) and I'm currently living in Carterville, Illinois

great to have already got two replies, thank you. I dont really know the details/feasability of replacing the master with a dual, if it's just a mount and different levers, i could get it done, if it's not practical, i'll just replace all the lines and make sure i do i really nice job routing them. I know the fluid coupler was used on a lot of vechicles, but i was under the impression that the "Fluid-Drive" badge on the fender means fluid coupler with three gears, where the opther option was "Gyro-Matic" (2 manually selectable, 2 band ranges) and i was already looking at service manuals, just trying to decide between a book or cd-rom, the book is cool to have, the cd-rom should be text searchable, but the cd-roms seem to be really steep, i think at 25-30 bucks, id just go for the book. so what would be some of the first things you would check for on a car like this, (running but not really driven, basically sitting for almost ten years?) and how do these front brakes perform (dual cylinder) as opposed to single cylinder front drums?

if you're still running the 6-volt system, check the current in the line youre concerned with (or any line that would need six volts with a 12 volt battery/gen system installed) if its a pretty steady current (when operating) you could just line up diodes to drop the voltage. i'd imagine that theres a bit of variance there (like 12V-14V on a "12V" system) so chances are you could get away with this. theres fancy formulas for the dynamic resistance of a diode, (varies slightly with current) but generally, most silicon diodes will drop between 0.6V and 0.7V a piece. so if you line up ten of them in series, they will drop 6-7 volts (whatever they would drop, it would drop the same at all times, tune within .7V or so by adding/removing) (if an amp or less these could be soldered together and shrink wrapped to look like a 2 inch long piece of 10 guage wire) (15A diodes are about the size of a pencil eraser) you could also use a single zener diode (in reverse bias) or a combination, like if you find a 5V zener, use that, in reverse bias, along with two regular diodes in forward bias to drop approximately 6.2-6.4 volts. (out of 12-14, leaving 5.8-7.6) just if you do that make sure you put the zener in reverse or it will only drop the same as the other two (about 1.8-2.1 total, leaving around 10-12 volts) possibly burning the coil in that solenoid on that valve in your transmission. as with anything, always better to check one more time, than one fewer time. also solid state voltage regulators are cheap and precise. that way it'd stay at a nice steady 6V no matter what the battery/gen are at but if its just for a solenoid, the diodes should work fine. 6V ss regulators such as the LM7806 (good up to 1A) can be had for less than a dollar. ones up to 20-30A will come in a T0-3 package (such as the one in the article linked to above) in this case, (and id hope the instructions mention this) the output (positive output if a positive regulator) is usually connected to the TO-3 case of the regulator, which is connected to the heatsink, which probally connects to your cars body. (these can be electrically insulated from the heatsink) this raises another question, as these cars are factory positive ground, will it remain that way, or will you convert it to negative ground? if this is any help to you, (or if you just feel like being nice) please chime in here:http://p15-d24.com/topic/34445-found-a-nice-solid-50-meadowbrook-things-to-look-for/#entry347754 as i need help with what to look for in a simmilar car, a 1950 meadowbrook. for which if i buy, I'll probally be dreaming up a way to keep charge on an auxilliry 12V battery from the existing 6V system (just to make it hard on myself)

Hello everyone, I'm new here. I am considering buying a 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook. This will not be for a show car, or a hot rod, just for a basic everyday (maybe not winter) driver. I plan on keeping this car pretty much original, with the only mod i have in mind being a dual-master brake cylinder. Lots of people tell me im nuts for this, hopefully you guys wont. Anyway, I'm interested in this car because I think it's a beautiful body style, this particular one is solid, and he's only asking $2,000. anyway, i know these cars were pretty durable as well as decent handling, nice suspension, and that the flat 230 was an extremely reliable engine. I since this has been sitting for awhile (plate says 2004) it will need some work. he says it runs, but from what ive read, these old flats, if not maintained (like most cars) usually need a valve adjustment, if any valves are burnt, a guy i work with now has told me he has some pretty sophisticated valve grinding setup i'm not new to working on cars, ive done lots of work mainly on 70's and 80's cars. this is a little different ill check out the carb and the distributor, and the valves and try and find a bushing or bearing (whatever it is) for the water pump, and so on (things on any car). but there are usually some characteristic things to look for on certain cars, and when it comes to these (late 40's early 50's meadowbrook, coronet, wayfarer) i have no idea what to look for. i mean things that should be fixed before they get worse, things that kill drive-ability but may be an easy fix, things that i should look for and possibly consider a different vehicle (or demand a good price reduction) and so on. where do these "Fluid-Drive" transmissions rate between being dependable and troublesome? my understanding (although i've read some conflicting info) is that "fluid-drive" is three gears with a clutch as well as a fluid coupler so you don't need to clutch between gears if you let off the gas. where "gyro-matic" has the same fluid coupler, and clutch, but has a high and low range, each of which automatically shift between two gears. (where high can be used if slow acceleration from a stop is ok) i understand that the front brakes on these are dual cylinder drums, do they perform notably better than single cylinder drums? would i be able to get the shoes re-lined at the same place a guy i used to work for in the trucking business sends his shoes off to to get re-lined? sorry to start off hammering away with questions, im just trying to figure out a lot in a short period of time here, this car is over 100 miles away, and i want to go check it out up close soon, but before i go a want to know some things i should be looking for. thanks for taking the time to read this post, i appreciate it, and i appreciate that this site exists. There's nothing like the old cars!