wdoland

Thanks for the reply. Just shot him an email.

Does anyone have or know where to get the small spring for the fluid drive dashpot? Mine flew across the garage into the abyss. Mike's carburetor was no help as was ebay. Thanks

Thanks for the replies.

Part time, getting vapor lock when it's hot Will put a switch under dash and just use it for starting then shut it off

Summit has a reasonably priced 6 volt electric fuel pump with good reviews. I have a stock spitfire 6 cyl. engine. Which pump is best for this engine, the 8 psi or 4 psi ?

Look up Mike's Carburetor. He has all the parts you need and video on line of how to rebuild.

Well I tried... I believe it's easier to get into Fort Knox than this solenoid. RIP

Nothing, completely dead. Now I'm trying to figure out how to open it up.

Yeah, I hooked it up and there was no movement. Is there anyway to take them apart? Can they be repaired?

How do you test it? Can they be repaired?

Just wanted to update my carburetor problem of leaking. I tried everything I could think of to fix the leak to no avail. I bit the bullet and ordered another rebuild kit from Mikes Carburetor Parts. As I was rebuilding, I found a small piece of broken off of the spacer that goes between the float bowl assembly and the throttle body. I replaced the broken spacer with one from another carb I had and finished the rebuild. This piece might not have let it be tightened down enough without warping and leaking past the gasket. All is well now with no leaks! It doesn't downshift from 4th to 3rd when I put the petal to the floor but I think it's just an adjustment in the linkage. Thanks for all the responses Wayne

Took the top off like Jerry suggested and fuel was way up there. Took the float out and just happened to shake it and there was gas inside. AH-HA! Changed the float and started it up. Ran great, no leaks, ran for about five minutes. Turned it off and it started to leak. Heard a type of percolating sound from the air horn at the top. Looked down and saw a slow drip. I'm about ready to get a vintage 1997 Prius or Chevy Volt!

I'm running the stock fuel pump and I checked the needle when the carb was off. It does stop the air flow when I blow in it. I don't understand why the float is too high because I set it to spec the first time. Then I bent it to lower it and it didn't leak for a while after that. It does seem to me that the bowl is overflowing. I will try to lower the float again tomorrow. Thanks for all the responses Wayne

Don't know if it leaked before because I bought it on ebay. Wanted the correct carb for the car. (EV1) I adjusted the float and it was hitting the needle. Am I correct in thinking there should be only mist down at the throttle body? Oh, and it was idling real fast when it started to leak. I didn't have a chance to make an adjustment to the idle

Well it's leaking again. This time it's at the of the carb at the throttle shaft assembly. That piece that has the 3 holes in it for summer and winter settings. I wouldn't think gas would be running down that far unless something isn't right up around the top of the bowl. Should be a mist by then, right?

Removed double post

Update: Got the carb on, running with no leaks. Replaced the float with and old one I had that wasn't bent, checked that it was hitting the needle to shut the gas off and let it run for awhile with a fire extinguisher close by. Took ole Walter for a short run and now it's not shifting into 4th. (I always start out in 3rd ) I think I have the spring and plunger over the gasket and not under so it's insulating it somehow. Too dark to see now so I'll work on it tomorrow.

It looks like the only way gas can leak out is if it gets high enough in the bowl to escape down the shaft for the link that attaches to the plunger. When I rebuilt it, the float was adjusted to the correct spec but I have since bent it so it doesn't come up so high. I will check the needle and seat assy. to see that it's working correctly.

Correction to what I called the accelerator pump. I believe it's called the "Dash Pot". I have Fluid Drive and it's leaking from the bottom of that flat popsicle looking thing that comes out of the bottom and is linked to that 3 hole thing. (Hope I'm not getting too technical) Inside the carburetor, the flat piece is attached to the round piece with the leather at the end. Anayaltr1, welcome to the forum! Hope you fix your problem. I'll post what happens with my carb when it's fixed. Also, we like to see pictures of your car or truck.

Just installed my rebuilt ev1 carb on my Chrysler. Started up fast, ran great then after about 4 mins it started leaking. Took the top of the carb off and adjusted the float thinking it was overflowing from inside. Tried it again and it's still leaking at the bottom of the accelerator pump where it attaches to the linkage. Do you think I need to adjust the float more? I originally had it where Mike's Carburetor and the specs said to put it (5/64")

http://www.roadkill.com/413-powered-1952-chrysler-new-yorker-dominates-new-england-lemons-race/

I went with Diamondback WW radials and couldn't be happier.

My Spitfire with Fluid Drive runs great. But sometimes it stalls when I let up on the gas too fast. For example, the other day, I started to accelerate from a four way stop. The driver on my right pulled out in front of me and I quickly let up on the gas to brake. It stalled. Also I have a very steep driveway. (NASA wanted to use it as a launch pad) I give it gas all the way into the garage then take my foot off to brake and it sometimes stalls. Any thoughts? Wayne

That is a great idea Don, I will try that next weekend.

I didn't ebay them, I think they were thrown out because they can't be found. With the brake tool, I thought I got them adjusted but then I couldn't get the drum on easily, So it might be the pins are too long.