YukonJack

I installed the kit from Newport Engineering. Easy to install, works good. Would not clear the stock radio in my 47 though.

I got it last night.

My 47 P15 engine has a noise when cold, more of a tapping than a knock. When the engine warms up the noise is gone. I pulled the plug wires one at a time with engine running and cold thinking if it were a rod the noise would go away when the correct wire was pulled. No difference, noise still there regardless of which cylinder I pulled. I read a previous thread about piston slap when cold but it goes away when engine warms up. If it were piston slap wouldn't the noise go away when the plug wire was removed (like testing for a bad rod) I'm running an electric fuel pump with the old pump still on the engine. I recall reading that the stock fuel pumps are loud when they are run dry. Also, my gasket between the intake & exhaust manifolds is bad (the square one). Engine runs good when warm. Any ideas on what could be causing my noise? Thanks in advance.

I've seen the same set up on the Plymouth taillights. How did you do it? What holds the lenses in? Do you have a picture of the taillights from inside the trunk? I'd be interested in knowing how you did it. Also, what type of trunk latch did you use. I like it.

Check bolt pattern before buying Dodge or Ford truck & van wheels. Dodge vans and pick ups used 4 1/2 bolt pattern until early 80's then went to 5" pattern. Ford used a 5" bolt pattern on pick ups and vans since at least mid 60's.

2007 Chrysler 300 Limited, 2004 Harley Davidson Heritage Classic

Am I missing something here? Chevy didn't have a flathead in 51.

My 47 Deluxe has the original motor without the bypass t/stat housing. My housing looks like a later model V8. In pictures I've seen of other p15's and earlier, some have the bypass and some don't. I had a 48 Special Deluxe that had the bypass housing.

My 47 Plymouth has the Thermostat housing without the bypass hose (mine is internal?) Is there any benefit to switching to the external bypass stat housing? Would it cause any problems to run it with both? If not, does anyone have the extra parts needed to change over? Thanks in advance.

I thought all the Flat 6 fuel pumps were interchangable, but looking at the pictures the activating levers look different. Does it make a difference?

During the summer I picked up the dual heater set-up for my 47 Plymouth. I am still missing some parts. There should be a large metal duct that goes from the cowl vent to the top of both heaters & the kick panel vents. If anyone has these and don't plan to use them, let me know. Thanks in advance.

I've always been a fan of a nice rack too, just not on a car:eek: A rack on a wagon looks like it needs some kid with blond hair hanging his surf board on it. I like the idea of a removeable rack, something that doesn't require holes in the roof.

My original thought was that the fan switch in lowest speed position I would be operating the motor at a speed equal to high when it was 6 volts. The original 6 volt switch lasted a while with 12 volts and did control speed. The rheostat on the back eventually burned out. The new 12 switch only allowed high speed and when I tried to turn the speed lower the rheostat would start to smoke. I did stick my finger in in heater (power off) and the fan does have some resistance when I spin it. I don't think it is a factory heater as the switch was originally mounted to the front of the heater and had a red illuminated know that has ARVIN written on it. Am I going to need to remove the heater from the car to oil the bushings or will the cover come off with the heater still mounted?

I used the Runtz reducer on my gas gauge when I first did the conversion. It lasted about a day, then burned out. Seemed like a waste of money. I've been running 12 volts to the gas gauge ever since without a problem.

Converted my 47 to 12 volts a few years ago. Ran my 6 volt heater on 12 volts. Worked ok, just ran very fast. Last winter the switch gave out, you had to wiggle it to get the heater to come on. The original switch was mounted to the front of the heater, not the control panel. Went to Napa, got a universal 12 volt under dash switch. Hooked it up and it worked fine, on high. On anything lower than high the rheostat in the switch would start smoking. Ran the heater today (a little cold in Chicago) for about 15 minutes and the fan started slowing down on its own. Finally quit working. Any thoughts on this. I would really like to get the heater working again.

Hey James, where did you get the carb spacers from?

If anyone has one of these they want to sell for a reasonable price I would be interested in buying one. If it has linkage that would also be a plus. Jack

Excalibur, unless it is rear engine then maybe a kit car.

What type of longer rod did you use? Was it something you bought or something you made?

Sounds like your kit is about the same as the Plydo kit and about the same cost. I've also noticed you have a front shock mount kit that looks like the Plydo kit, are you cheaper on the shock mount kit?

I installed my Plydo kit about 5-6 years ago. Honestly don't remember total cost. Got all the parts from the local Auto Zone parts store (calipers, rotors, brake lines etc.) Would come outer cheaper if you have good used parts, but I went with new. Don Coatney used the same kit on his car about a year after I did mine. His record keeping skills are better than mine so he'll probably remember cost. I believe I spent about 500.00 for everything. Stock 15" wheels bolted on with no problem.

I used the Plydo kit. Stock wheels still fit.

If you use an electric fuel pump you want a rotary type, not a bellows type. The bellows or diaphram type don't hold up with fuel additives or methanol, it dries out the diaphram. Most say this on the instructions. I learned several years ago with a car I had, put a can of Heet in the gas tank and a week later the pump quit pumping but you could still hear it running.

Hopefully no mice or squirrels were hurt in this story or you'll be getting a call from the ASPCA Glad your noise is gone.

About a week ago someone posted a question about a 180 thermostat. The reply included pictures and part #thm155. My question, is this for a Deluxe or Special Deluxe? From what I can tell the Deluxe ( that's what I have ) does not have a by pass thermostat housing, Special Deluxe does. My stat housing looks like a Mopar V8 housing, no by pass hose and my thermostat looks nothing like the one in the pic with the rubber gasket on top and the adapter/spacer as the pic showed. Would this thm155 work in all flatheads or just the by pass type?