YukonJack

Hard to tell from the picture, but those don't look like Fatboys unless they changed a lot for 2008. I ride a 2004 HD Heritage Softtail which is pretty much the same frame as the Fatboy and my rear shocks are not on the side, they are underneath between the swing arm and frame. Fatboys are about 18000.00 each. Could have got a real nice Cuda for 36000.00. But hey, as long they are happy and ride safely it's all that matters. Best of luck to both.

I've had good luck in the past with JB Weld or 2 part ribbon epoxy for gas tanks.

Can you tell me what the shock kit consists of? Do you have a picture?

I know the gasket between the intake and exhaust manifolds is leaking (the square gasket). Could this cause it? Have a gasket set to replace this but have hesitated after reading about so many people breaking studs in the block. If the nuts were heated with a torch and removed while hot, wouldn't this eliminate the chance of breaking studs?

My P15 has a cold start miss. Engine starts right up but misses, then on acceleration it smokes. I assume the smoke is because it is loading up from the miss. Smoke is sort of gray in color. After the car goes about a block or two, the miss goes away and so does the smoke. My heat riser isn't working, but I can open and close it with a pliers, makes no difference in the miss, open or closed. I rebuilt my carb, have an electric fuel pump with a pressure regulator set at 4lbs. I am running Autolite 306 plugs and synthetic blend motor oil. Runs great after a couple of blocks. Compression on all cylinders is in range but low 85-90. I am also running 12 volts electrical & ignition. I have also removed plug wires one at a time when cold but can't pin point miss to any one cylinder. Any ideas on this?

Took my P15 to the gas station today and filled up. Right before the pump shut off it burped a little gas out the filler neck and down my fender. This didn't seem normal. Anyone else have this happen?

Just curious how many have tried the Bon Ami down the carb move. How many have been successful and if anyone had a problem afterwards. Thinking about trying it but I'm a little hesitant. I'm getting smoke from my tailpipe on accel and it seems to come and go.

I thought I read about problems with the shafts wobbling.

From what I've read several people on this forum have had trouble with these. Has anyone had a trouble free experience?

I got them at Napa about 2 weeks ago.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but the way I understood the question there was a miss before the head was installed because he "still has a miss". Would make me think wires, points or condensor. Plugs might be a problem later but this sounds like a problem that existed before the head was changed.

Look, I asked a simple question. Did not intend to rehash the Chevy versus Mopar debate. Telling me I would have plenty of room does not answer the question of tail shaft length.

Is anyone running a 350 Chevy & automatic in their P15? I'm curious what length trans was used (short tail shaft, medium or long)

Really not sure. Car came into the shop with a coolant leak. Seem to think it was a late 60's early 70's Chevy & this was in the late 70's. No idea what the owner had in it, but it was green and it ignited from the spark.

I never thought anti freeze burned either until one day in the late 70's. I was working at a shop with another mechanic who was changing a freeze plug located above the starter on a car. He was punching the freeze plug out with a long 3/8" extension, the extension grounded out on the battery lead at the starter at the same time he punctured the freeze plug, flash fire. Nothing got damaged and it was over before we knew it, but it was burning.

I would think a seperate trans cooler is better. In theory, the radiator cooler would bring the trans temp down to engine temp while an add on cooler is subject to outside temp. It is also important to get the cable adjusted correctly on a 700r4 & 200 4r, if it isn't adjusted correctly you will burn the trans up.

Several years ago I put headers on a 66 Chevy truck I had. I was told that using a vht paint (red, yellow or orange) on the inside would prevent them from rusting from the inside out. Something about oxide in these colors. Don't quite remember.

If you look in the download section under P15 PCV Installation it is running the pcv to the same port in the manifold that my wipers used before converting to electric wipers. But VPW told me it wouldn't work from there. If it won't work from that port, why does the download picture show it using that location?

I recently contacted Vintage Power Wagons and was told the kit won't work on my 47 Plymouth because I need a 1/2 inch hole in my intake to run it. I thought I could use the port that the vacuum wipers ran from but they told me it wouldn't work on vacuum. It confused me.

Is the regular price of the kit the same as the Buy It Now?

I have used PlyDo on several occassions and not had a problem. I have their disc brake kit on my 47, I also have the rack kit but it isn't installed yet. Fatman Fabricating makes a sub frame kit to allow you to use a mustang II front end. Also, anytime I've called PlyDo with a question they are very helpful. Just my opinion.

What did the T5 come out of?

Did anyone mention the 4 bushings in the pitman arm?

Regarding the V6 swap, was it difficult to wire the fuel injection or is a manifold available to adapt a carb?

I agree. I've been coming to this site for about 7 years, even though I got bumped down to a new member status when the forum changed a short time back. I come looking for information and to share some of my experiences. If I see a subject not auto related, I ignore it. Try to stay focused on what this forum is really about.