bosworth

I believe that the seats came out of a VW Pasat. I don't know the year. A neighbor bought them at one of the Good Guys shows for a hot rod, not realizing that they were for a four door car and wouldn't tip forward for his coupe, he was very happy to sell them to me. I should also have mentioned that the hub caps and rims were provided by Plymouthy Adams. Bill

I will replace this engine with the rebuild, Again, thanks to everyone for all of your input and help throughout this project. Bill

I guess it's about time I posted a few pictures of my project. I got this truck about 3 years ago, it was either I bought it or it went to the crusher, as I was only paying scrap price I figured I had nothing to loose. I knew once I started though, that It would be a very time and money consuming project. Besides replacing a bunch of sheet metal, I changed the rear end to a Jeep Cherokee with a 3.5 ratio and drum brakes. I installed a front ScareBird brake kit. The engine that is currently in the truck was supplied by Dan Babb. The engine that I am rebuilding is the one that was in the truck when I got it. Although the engine has some issues I have been driving it, I really love driving this old truck and am amazed at the amount of attention it draws, seems I can't go anywhere without someone wanting to examine the truck and relate fond memories of old Dodge trucks they have known. The paint color is called Laguna Green and was available on Mini Cooper convertibles for a short time. I put the truck together to make a comfortable driver, not a show truck.

I want to thank everyone for their great input, I learned a lot in a short time. I purchased a crank from this website store and should receive it this week. I'll have to start collecting up the rest of the parts so they can complete the rebuild. I should post a few pictures of my project so you can see what I've been up to so I'll start another thread and see if I can figure out how to post the pictures. Thanks Bill

Elwood, thanks for the information, it's interesting that the cranks are universal. it seems like the biggest job with the 8 bolt crank offered would be fitting a pilot bearing. If i were to go with the 8 bolt crank I would have to find out if the flange is setback further than the 4 hole crank. Thanks Bill

I seems that the surface is to damaged to be turned to .040, I was hoping that it could be saved. I went over to the shop this morning and looked at the crank number, it's very hard to read, at first I thought that the number was way off in left field, then figured out that I was reading the number up side down!! As best I can make out it is consistent with 952068. The engine Number is P23*87907 so it should be a 218 out of a 52 plymouth. They are going to clean up the block and check for cracks etc. If it is ok, I will be looking to get a replacement crank.. On another topic, there is a question about removing the plate at the end of the camshaft, is this the thrust plate?, is it pressed on? thanks Bill

thanks, I will go over to the engine builders this morning and try to find a forge number for the crank that I have. He also indicates that the camshaft looks warn, I have another running engine that may donate a camshaft, the crank in that engine is worse than the one at the builders. Thanks Bill

The crank that I found with the 8 bolt flange has a forging number of 1316540 I don't know about the one that was in my engine, I'll try to find out tomorrow, but it is probably 952068 or 856080 Bill

I took my 218 engine from my 51 B3B pickup to a local machine shop. They removed the crankshaft, the shaft has been turned to .030 under, most of the shaft looks ok, but number one had a spun bearing and is going to need work, problem is the largest rod bearing that I can find is .040 and that probably won't be enough. If I can find a shop that can weld and grind we might be able to save the shaft. I found a crankshaft on ebay. It's problem is that it's output flange is for 8 bolts, my flywheel for a 3 speed is 4 bolt. I would assume that the 8 bolt flange is a different size and has a different bolt circle than the 4 bolt flange, it would be to much to hope for an interchange. Does anyone have a clue if the 8 bolt and 4 bolt patterns are compatible? Any thoughts on welding and grinding the one I have? Thanks Bill

My 48 Plymouth is still 6v pos ground with an Optima battery, works fine, I did add a 10A 6v. to 12 v converter so I could charge phones and run GPS. I did convert the 51 B3B Dodge pickup that I just finished to 12 volts. I also wanted a modern sound system and plan to add AC and electronic ignition at some point. I also changed the generator out to a one wire alternator. As I had to put a new harness into the truck and replace just about everything it was much easier to go 12 volts. I am still using the 6 volt starter, no modification. I also put resistors in for the heater motor, wiper motor and horn. What I used there were 1 ohm 100 watt resistors. I'm currently still running a 6 volt coil with a ceramic ballast resistor. The starter does run very fast and the truck starts after about 2 revolutions, so all is good. From now on, finding parts, including batteries, should be much easier. Bill

I converted my B3B to 12 volts and installed 1ohm 100 watt resisters in series with the heater fan, wipers and horn, what I used was something like https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Ohm-100W-Watt-Power-Aluminum-Shell-Resistance-Shell-Case-Wirewound-Resistor/253391459239?epid=1593151861&hash=item3aff4ed3a7:g:tkgAAOSwItJaa~20 Bill

My 51 B3B also sat out in a field for about 40 years. The water pump was missing from the engine as were the radiator hoses. Once I got the truck back on the road, I found that it was that I couldn't go anywhere without it overheating. I pulled the radiator and tried to run water though it to gage how well it flowed, there was absolutely no water flow. I ran water in the bottom outlet and injected compressed air into the drain fitting, what I got was a geyser of water and mouse nests. That radiator contained hand fulls of nests and nut shells. Now that the radiator is well flushed it cools very well. I thought I'd mention my experience on the off chance that your radiator also contains unwanted mouse houses. Bill

It would be very nice to save the rod, I don't know what they cost, might be less than the labor, but I will be sure to ask, thanks! Bill

It was a rod bearing that spun, so I'm sure that the rod is toast, but the other bearings look good. I took the engine over to the rebuilder this morning, so see what he says. I know he has a crankshaft machine and if he can weld up a journal and turn it back down to size, I'm not sure. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I believe that he orders from Egge parts for some of his builds. Bill

Thanks, I forgot Rock Auto, I've gotten a bunch of things from them in the past. I'll take a look. I will get the engine to the engine builder and have them tear it down to see if it's viable before I buy any parts, I also have the engine that is currently in the truck, so hopefully I should be able to get one good one out of the two. Bill

I've decided that it's time to have a complete engine rebuild. The engine that is currently in my truck is sounding worse and worse and the oil pressure drops off after it's hot. I enjoy driving this old truck so much that I want to have a good reliable engine that I won't be afraid to take anywhere. I have the engine , a 1952 plymouth 218, that came with the truck when I got it. The previous owner had spun the rod bearing on no.1 and parked the truck in a field 40 years ago. The engine is not frozen, cylinders look pretty good and the crank looks much better than the engine that I am currently using. The crank on this original engine had been turned and contains .030 rod bearings, I'm sure that they will have to clean up the crank especially no.1 rod journal. My question is about parts sources. The engine builder is a little concerned about availability. I have dealt with Roberts and Burnbaums on many occasions, no complaints about either. I also see that Clegg engine parts shows complete rebuild kits, as does Egge and Kanter. I also have a parts list from Vintage Power Wagon. I am wondering if anyone has any comments or favorite parts sources, I would hope for a quality rebuild, but don't wish to spend more money than necessary. As always, thanks for your help Bill

Really a beautiful first class job!

I'm picking up a pan gasket at napa this morning and will get some plasti-gauge. I'll do a compression test and a combustion gas test first just to cover the bases. I'll post my findings once the pan is off. Thanks for your thoughts! Bill

All good thoughts, I'll try to do some more testing and get some more experienced ears involved. I am not real crazy about the oil pressure. It runs about 40 lbs cold and drops down to 30 lbs at 30 or 40 mph when hot. Hot Idle pressure down to about 15 lbs.or a little less. The engine in my 48 Plymouth runs closer to 50 lbs, idle at about 30 lbs. According to the Plymouth service manual low oil pressure at idle is ok as long as the pressure increases with engine speed. it says that at 30 mph that the pressure should be 30 to 50 lbs. How did you determine that your engine had a bad cam bearing? I'm pretty sure that we can change the main and rod bearings without pulling the engine, but cam bearings would be a different matter. Thanks Bill

Hi All; I thought I was finally finished with my 51 B3B, got it on the road, exterior and interior finished. Now that I am able to put some miles on it, I think that I am hearing a serious engine noise. I know very little about the engine, the only things that I have done involve the cooling system, rebuild of the ignition system and carburetor. At idle and when the engine is cold it sounds great! As quiet and smooth as any one of my new cars. When the engine is hot, 190 on the meter and running for at least 3 miles, it starts making a rapid clacking noise. I at first thought I had something loose vibrating on the engine or exhaust system. This noise goes away under load like acceleration or going up a grade, is most prominent when cruising along at 35 to 50 mph on level ground. I can cause the noise when parked by accelerating and then letting off of the throttle. I tried shorting out the plugs one at a time and the noise is reduced or eliminated when no. 1 is shorted out. My guess is a bad rod bearing on no. 1. I would appreciate your input and suggestions for further tests. It's kind of ironic, when I first got the truck it had a blown engine, the rod bearing had spun on no.1 and the piston skirt was cracked. I got a different donor engine that seemed to be perfect, quiet, no leaks, runs clean.... Is no.1 a standard problem? Thanks Bill

Hi, and thanks for the replies, I don't plan long distance trips, but would like to make it more of my daily driver, probably 30 miles per trip. As far as compression, seems to run from 125 psi, to 135 psi, which I assume is ok. I don't know about the rpm's at I have a 350 jeep rear axle and the tires are 235- 75- 15 so their about 29"D. it seems that the engine is still kind of busy at 55 mph, but at this stage I have done nothing to the interior, no sound proofing, so things get a little noisey. Trying a second oil pressure gauge is a good idea, I just may invest in one or I can plumb in the original. I know that to make any kind of a decision about bearings, the pan has to come down and a cap or two removed. Is just changing out the bearing a feasible option, it seems like a gasket kit an rod and main bearings would be less than $200, this is not a job that I have done before, hoping my neighbor has though. Any thoughts? Bill

I finally have my 52 b3b on the road, tags and all, have been out joy riding and find that when I go for about 10 miles and the engine is hot, that the oil pressure drops down to about 20 psi.at 40 to 45 mph. idle pressure is about 10. When the engine is cold the pressure is up to about 45 psi, idle at about 20. I don't remember what weight oil is in the engine now, probably 10w 30 or possibly 15 w 40. I have a jug of Mobile 1 15w50 that I can put in to see if it helps. I can't think of a plan B, other than pulling the pan and checking the main and rod bearing wear. The engine seems to run great, starts easily and runs quietly. Am I missing something, or is it time to do some major surgery?? The engine seems to be good enough that I don't want to do any damage to it by driving it if the oil pressure is inadequate. As always,, thanks for your help Bill

Thanks, the info about the self energizing jeep brakes is just what I needed to know, I will go back and bleed the brake system again and do as you suggest. I am a little paranoid about the brakes, making them go is great, but getting them to stop is a priority. Now, to find a smooth dirt road...... thanks Bill

thanks for your reply; I have two other vehicles with drum brakes a 31 model A ford pickup (mechanical, not hydraulic) and a 48 plymouth, both stop well and will lock up the wheels in a panic stop. I have replaced all of the components in the front and rear brakes and as far as I can tell, they are adjusted. I have adjusted the brakes on my 48 plymouth with good results. I don't think the wheels will lock up on this truck, although it occurs to me, even with an imbalance in bore diameters between the front and rear, the front brakes should still be working as original. Bill

I'm getting close to having my 52 B3B ready for the road, I've been doing a little joy riding on our dead end road and I'm not impressed with the stopping power of my setup. What I have is a standard Master cylinder, standard front brakes and a jeep cherokee rear axle with 9" drum brakes. I believe the problem is that the wheel cylinders on the Jeep axle have only 13/16" bores, while the bores of the front wheel cylinder and Master cylinder are 1 1/4" each. What I think from my high school physics days is that the rear cylinders will only produce about 42% of the pressure developed by the front cylinders. I believe that the original rear cylinder was 1 1/8" bore which would have produced 80% If the heating of the drums is an indication, i'm finding that after a few hard stops that the front drums are getting quite a bit hotter than the rear drums. My question is what are my options for increasing my breaking power; front disk brakes, a different master cylinder with a smaller bore, is it possible to find wheel cylinders for the jeep axle with larger bores? I should mention that I drive a 48 Plymouth with a stock braking system, that works great, so I think I'm making a fair comparison. Your thoughts and experience are greatly appreciated Bill