bighammer48

Guess what? I used a micrometer on the two terminals, because that's what I had always believed back to the esrly 960's when I first started messing with cars. Both studs are so close in size, the difference isn't worth mentioning. Thus, from all of the pictures and info I've been able to garner, I'm going to guess that it's the left one as viewed from the rear. Thanks all.

Thanks all.

It is for certain a 6 volt as there was a 6 volt tag wired to it. My problem is that the manufacturers nameplate is missing. It looks like an Autolite GGW 6001 generator.

Guys, I need a little help. I was given a rebuilt generator from a 40's or 50's MOPAR by a guy cleaning out his garage. It bolted right on my '48 Dodge, but when I went to hook it up, I found that the terminals are different and unmarked. I can't tell which is the field and which is the armature. My original generator's terminal were front and back oriented at the top rear of the generator housing. These are at the top rear, but are oriented at 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock as viewed from the rear. Anyone know which is which? Thanks.

Hey Andydodge! I followed your advice, and the locking pins drove out without incident! Many, many thanks again!

Thanks again for your help and info! Roberts has the silencers and they are inexpensive.

It looks like I am driving the lock out from the wrong(front) side. I have the MOPAR kingpin package that contains all of the stuff you mention. I was consider buying the front suspension kit from Gary Roberts. I am hoping that it contains all of the seals. I have new coils, but need to buy the silencers. Also I have a coil spring compressor and was wondering if I should use it. Thanks for your help.

Here I am again! I beginning to think that the help I need is mental for starting this project.. Here it goes: I am working on my front suspension starting with the kingpins. Then on to the coils, control arms, etc. I am following the shop manual and have gotten to the point where I need to remove the locking pins and top seals again, according to the manual. It was fairly easy getting to this point. Now, following the obscure directions in the book, I got the locking pin on the first one(driver's side ) to move approximately a 1/4 inch and it won't budge from there. Likewise, following the book again, I can't get the top tin seal out, no matter what I try. I'm afraid to use too much force for fear of damaging irreplaceable parts. HELP!!! Additionally, I am soliciting any other guidance concerning replacing the coils, and rebuilding the control arms.

Thanks. I had looked at this. Turns out not to be NOS, but used . I found some in much better condition at Atlas for only a few bucks more.

Hi Guys / Gals ! Anyone know where I can get a good pair of 11 inch front brake drums for my 1948 D-24? I tried Google with no luck.

Thanks all.

Thanks. I'll look for a 7540.

The Gates belt is approximately 49 5/8 inches, and appears that a good fit would be 52 - 54 inches. Do I take the Gates belt with me so they can see the belt width and depth?

I've got my 48 D-24 engine all back together and ready to run except for the fan belt. The original belt got mislaid and now I'm trying to find a new one. I purchased a Gates 7490 that the parts interchange list on this site suggested. I find that this belt is probably 4 or 5 inches too short for whatever reason. Any suggestions for a belt that will fit correctly?

Thank you.

Looks like I'm missing the piece that the throttle knob cable connects to. Thanks for the pics guys. Any ideas of a part # for that piece, or where I can get one?

Does anyone have a good picture of the 48 D24 throttle linkage showing the bellcrank detail?I have reassembled all of my engine, but the linkage doesn't seem to be correct to me. All of the pictures I took before disassembly show the rods, but none show the bellcranks.

Thanks. It's Pittsburgh weather, which at this time, is very damp and humid. Years ago, I had an Aspen wagon with a 318. The heat riser stuck open, and the carb would ice up, even in Summer.

I have read the heat riser section and loosely assembled my NOS manifold pair on the bench. The only way my NOS heat riser will operate freely is with the counter weight in the 3:30 position when closed and at the 9:00 position when fully open. I cannot get the counterweight to freely clear the spring post when at the 12:00 position. Further, the valve is about 1/2 open at 12:00. Stuck!!!

Will do.

Hi Guys! It's me again with my 48 Dodge manifolds. I need some guidance installing the heat riser. The shop manual doesn't address much, and I need to install the spring and counterweight properly. The spring is real loose and I don't know it I should tighten 1 turn or to to preload it. I could also use a picture of the spring and couterweight installed. As always, Thanks

Thank you, as always!

hanks. Torque spec is 15 -20 lb.-ft. It's in the shop manual.

Guys, I bought new intake and exhaust manifolds for my D-24. The shop manual only lists the torque spec. There are no directions for installation. Do I bolt the 2 together first( 4 bolts near the carb mount ), or do I bolt them loosely to the engine, then snug the top and bottom halves where the carb mounts, then tighten to the engine finishing the top/bottoms last? Or, do I tighten completely to the block first? I DO NOT want to induce a crack in either piece. Help, please!

1148642 is the left side Dodge number for sedans and coupes.