bighammer48

I have a 48 D24 Sedan. I have determined that the previous owner put a flathead from a 54 Dodge into it. My exhaust manifold is cracked. I have 2 questions: 1.) I have an NOS intake/exhaust manifold combo from a 48 Dodge, will it fit this engine? 2.) I have removed 10 nuts and bolts from the manifolds, and yet they will not budge. Are there more that cannot be easily seen? The origunal D24 shop manual is of no help.

My 48 Dodge D-24 has a cracked exhaust manifold. I have determined that the engine is from a 54 Dodge. Two questions: 1.) I have obtained an NOS intake/exhaust manifold combo for a 48 engine. Will it fit this engine? 2.) I have removed all of the nuts & bolts that I can see (10) but the manifold will not budge. Are there more bolts hidden from view? The original shop manual is of no help at all in this matter.

Thanks for all of the helpful suggestions. The longer bolt idea worked very well for me.

I made sure the crank was at the low spot. Trouble is, there's no room to push against the spring whilst trying to finger-start the bolts. thanks.

Hi Folks. The fuel pump in my '36 blew out --- a victim of unleaded alcohol-containing fuel I guess. Anyhow, the old pump came out in 10 minutes. However, I struggled for 2 hours and couldn't even get a bolt started on the new pump, then gave up for the day. I turned the engine by hand off "high-cam" and still no luck. Anybody have any suggestions about changing an old flathead fuel pump in tight quarters. Also, I obtained a heat shield, but cannot figure out how it goes no matter how I position it.

Thank you again, James

Jim, Thank you for the info. I have a transmission jack from my years as a body shop owner, but had some trepidation about opening up an old manual tranny. I feel more confident now. Thanks, Mike

Hi Guys, This may seem like a dumb question, but, with all of the references to engine oil being bandied about, are we talking detergent or non-detergent. I use detergent in my D24's engine because I put a modern spin-on oil filter adapter on it. Also, No one addressed my question of whether or not I should attempt to replace the synchros myself, if necessary, or where I would even buy a set. Thanks again, Mike

Your point is taken. The advantages of a + ground alternator are: 1. My gauges won't work backward; 2. My factory perfect original radio works perfectly; 3. It bolted right in and connected right up without any screwing around with wiring. My philosphy has always been that the more you change, the more you introduce opportunities for errors. My motivation for this change was that since all of my wiring is new, and since I frame-off restored the '36 Plymouth, the original 20 amp generator was woefully underpowered to run even the headlights and taillights without a constant, but slow discharge of the battery, even with the generator having been overhauled and beefed up. The alternator solved all of those issues. I'd recommend it to anyone. My '48 Dodge D24 has no such issues as the generator is more than capable enough for the load imposed on it. Thanks for your input, Mike

James, Thank you for the reply. I do understand the difference between the fluid coupling and tranny. I provided the info in the spirit of accuracy and completeness. Anyhow, the 90W oil is what was in it when I bought the car, that is according to a lube sticker on the door post. I do have the owner's manual and I know about the 10W after reading your response. I didn't think about running it and doing the drain and refill which I will try this coming weekend. To answer my other ?, should the tranny need synchronizers, is this something I could attempt? I know that there are tons of little needle bearings in some stck trannies that you have to make sure not to lose. Also, where would I buy the bronze sync rings? Bernbaum, or some where else? Thanks for your interest and help, Mike

Don, It actually charges in a few minutes ( which is less than an hour ), but I thought I'd be conservative. Mike

Thanks to all who have responded. I will try to answer each question in order. 1. Yes. There is approximately 1 1/8" free play at the top of the clutch pedal; 2. The tranny has Kendall SAE 90 Transmission gear oil in it. The only thing I did to it was remove the floor pan during restoration. I still have the pan off, and wanted to address this before I put the interior back together. I bought the car with 22K verified miles on it, and it has been grinding since I first got it; 3. Since it may be a synchro problem, is this something I can repair myself? I am a retired body man and good with tools. I rebuilt the Mercomatic on a '54 Merc I restored several years ago, but have never opened up a stick. Mike

My '48 grinds going into every gear. The clutch is adjusted to the book, and the tranny linkage is adjusted by the book. I'm thinking maybe the tranny needs rebuilt, and / or a new clutch assembly is needed although the engagement of the clutch is positive with no slipping. What do you folks think?

I thought you guys might like an update. It's almost 1 year since I installed my DELCO 1 wire alternator from Quick Start. I went to their web site and purchased the alternator and bracket kit.Since my '36 Plymouth had a VR bolted piggyback to its generator, I took the single wire running to the VR BAT terminal and put it on the alternator. It works great. My battery is never low even after months in storage, it charges to full in less tha 1 hour of driving. No more dim headlights, or turn signals that barely blink at night. I even installed a MOPAR original foglight kit. I can run all of the lights at night without any sign of battery discharge. I installed a 6 volt voltmeter from Westach, and at night with everything on, even the radio, it reads between 7.5 and 8 volts at idle. Best modification I ever made!

Thanks for all of the info. I thorougly inspected the NOS cylinder berfore installing it. It was clean as a whistle. Nevertheless, I wiped it out with FREON TF degreaser before installing it. I just bought a brandy new kit from Andy Bernbaum, and I'm going to clean, hone and install the kit and see what happens. I'm guessing the old rubber got eaten up. I really appreciate all of your input. Evan, Post your email address and we can exchange pictures of our 36's. Mike I also have a '48 D24 Sedan that I'm restoring. I just completed the interior and am starting on the body. Not much to do except prep for painting. The body is super solid -- no rust holes anywhere that I can find, even the floors are clean.

Guys, Last Spring, I put an NOS MOPAR Right rear wheel cylinder on my Plymouth, and had the left rear re-sleeved. The system was drained and filled with modern DOT brake fluid and bled. There was all new lines put on with the frame-off restore. I drove the car all Summer with no brake problems. I went to my Winter garage(humidity controlled) last weekend to start it up and let it warm up good. I spotted dripping inside the right rear wheel. The brake pedal goes to the floor, so I can only assume that the RR cylinder is shot. Questions: should a brand new NOS wheel cylinder be gone already? What next? Help!

Here is a good source for those interested. http://www.alternatorparts.com/6_volt_alternators_&_kits.htm

Does anyone out there have any experience with the installation and use of a 6-volt + ground alternator in there old MOPARs?

I do have the sheet metal canister with the plumbing. I'll take your advice. Thank you.

In case it makes a difference, the car came to me with a red Chrysler decal on the filter canister as noted. The guy I bought it from gave me a case of FRAM C-134A oil filters. They have a flat circular black gasket in the boxes with the filters, not an "O" ring. Anyhow, thanks for the advice.

Hi guys, I have the "Chrysler Full Flow" cartridge type oil filter on my D24. I changed the oil and filter cartridge, but I am getting seepage around the threads of the filter housing cap. I tried a new gasket 2X. Each time, I coated the gasket with grease and tightend the cap as much as I dare. Still the seepage. It happens in a different spot each time, so I don't think the cap threads or housing threads are damaged, and the gasket doesn't appear to have been wrinkled when I remove it. Any suggestions? Mike

Here I am again with a 36 Plymouth question. My '48 D24C behaves beautifully, but this 36 Plymouth can be fitfull. Here goes: 2 weeks ago, I pulled the Plymouth out of dry storage where it wintered. I had started it once a week over the winter, consequently it started right up when it was time to bring her home. Over the past 2 weeks, I drove it several times and all was working perfectly. This morning, I went to pull it out and shine it up for a parade tomorrow. I noticed that the ammeter was showing no charge, when it normally reads + 5 - 10 amps. Looking over the generator and taking measurements, all seemed well. I noticed that the little AGC 10 fuse in the bottom of the regulator was blown. I replaced the fuse, still no charge. Voila ! the fuse was blown again. It should be noted that everything electrical on the car, save the charging, is working just fine. There are no hot wires, nor any other blown fuses. No guidance in the shop manual either. Help!!!

Thank you Gentlemen for all of your suggestions. Just an hour ago I got the hub off using a combination of the advice I received here. This is how I did it: Turns out a neighbor had a Snap-On puller that he lent me. I soaked the hub once again with PB Blaster; Put on the puller and let it sit under tension for 2 1/2 hours; Came back to it and gave a few sharp raps to the hub with a baby sledge and some steel chisel stock; Took a 3/4" Breaker bar with a 1.125" socket and put it on the puller screw; Took a 42" piece of fence post pipe and put it over the breaker bar handle and began lifting; After about a 1/4 turn, there was a loud bang which caused me to think I broke another tool, but it was the hub breaking free;After all of this, the hub slide right off like it was on a greased rail. I carefully inspected the hub and axle. There was no corrosion or anything else to indicate why it was seized so tightly. I think the guy who did the frame-off resto must have hogged down the spindle nu with a large impact wrench to make it the equivalent of a hydraulic press fit. Anyhow, I'm back in business, thanks again to all of you !

The drum rotates freely. I have a pir of new drums from Kanter, but cannot find anyone locally( 15137 ) who is willing to press the hubs out of the old drums and into the new ones. I am to the point where I am afraid of damaging something irreplaceable such as the axle. Thanks for your advice.

It's a "heavy duty" weighing about 10 lbs. It has a 7/8" center bolt with a hex head that a tee for hammering fits on. There is a heavy steel ring about 1 1/4 " thick that three forged arms lock on to via a C shaped forging that slides into a top and bottom groove of the center ring. I could take a digital picture, but don't know how to post it here.