maineSSS

Anyone have a 2 BBl (single carb) manifold they're willing to part with? You can email me @ davidjsaunders@hotmail.com, as I don't check this board everyday- thanks.

UK- You may want to look into a modern spin-on bypass filter like the Baldwin B-164 and base. I got this tip from a gentleman that customizes M37's and PW's, the filtration is better, and the changeout mess much less. Also, the availability of elements for the "sock-type" is becoming questionable, since it's a very low-volume market. I would retain a filter, as it will protect your engine against recirculating wear debris, and the bypass will filter all of the oil in the sump in 4-5 min at highway rpm's.

The bypass type filter mounts have a different thread pitch from full-flow mounts to insure you can't switch filter types- apparently the restrictor is in the filter in most modern bypass systems. I'm thinking 1/16" is the dia in the original system, but I'm not 100% sure, I do know the orifice is separate from the filter, it's a brass plug somewhere in the system...

What was the restrictor diameter in the 230 engine bypass oiling system? I'm looking into using the Baldwin B-164 spin-on bypass filter and mount as an upgrade over the sock-type setup I presently have. Somewhere I have this data, just can't find it..

40P10- If you go to "Higher Performance 230 Rebuild", you'll see pics of the CVK 40 & manifold at post #63 (1st page). I know of 2 instances where TBI has been used on the 230, one was a Lebaron unit and computer/harness, the other was a mid 90's Chevy TBI and computer/harness, both single throttle bodies. They supposedly worked pretty well, self-tuned thru the harness sensors. You might have a problem trying to control two throttle bodies via a single computer, and dual computers would likely have a constant competition with each other- I'd stick with one computer/throttle body setup.

I've been slowly working up an Individual Runner carb set for my '49 Power Wagon- 3 CVK 40 Harley carbs. THe PW has a Positive Crankcase Ventilation system instead of a road Draft Tube, since it often did stationary PTO operation for hours at a time. There is a pipe leading from the rear of the block to a fitting on the intake manifold plenum where crankcase vapor is fed into the cylinders. I'm thinking I could lead a tube into one carb runner (would feed 2 cyl), or into all three (would feed all 6 cyl). Feeding all three would "balance" -hopefully- the crankcase vapor input across all cylinders, and might also even out vacuum differences between cylinders. I've heard of a "balance tube" used with dual/triple carb setups on cars, but have never seen one used on multicarb bikes. What, exactly, are they supposed to accomplish?

If you really want to torture-test an engine, try tractor-pulling- it's maximum rpm against increasing load til you stall out or lose traction. What the audience is hoping to see are spectacular explosions- oil pans blown off, rods thru the block, flames and smoke, and all this WILL happen with a weak engine build. I've never heard of the V8 Ford flathead used in this type of competition, but the 230 Dodge stood up to 2 years of vintage tractor pulling by Mark Hudson, and after teardown showed no unusual wear. He did cross-drill the crank between #5 & #4 and #2 and #3 main bearings to provide a complete oil passage to allow 6000 rpm operation.

The upper end of the RPM range (Hp) is where you'll see flow improvement gains, flatheads usually have good torque. I want to improve flow around 2000 rpm for better road speed and hill climbing, double-clutch downshifting is kinda difficult. I think there are gains to be made in valve/seat angles and port shaping in the 230, not much actual engine development with today's tools seems to have been done on the Dodge.

I'm not a big fan of adapters, they tend to mess up the air fuel distribution when both barrels are in use, and often when one barrel is being used. The fuel-air stream hits a floor, separating out the fuel, which has to flow the edge of the 1 barrel opening and re-atomize, which often doesn't happen well. The OEM's, who are notoriously cheap, would have done this in preference to tooling up for a new casting (expensive) if it worked well. The 2100 carb sounds interesting, I'll have a look at it. Off-angle operation is definitely a plus in my application. Surprisingly enough, the Quadrajet works well offroad, due to small floats and their placement. The 36/32 Weber also seems popular, and the Harley-Davidson CVK 40 Kehein has run on an upside-down Samurai!

Reg- I don't have any idea what a fair value is, having never looked for one before. If you're not keen on parting with it, better hold on to it, my experience is that two days after you lose/sell/throw out something, you suddenly need it badly. My plan is to see how a more modern 2 bbl works on my '49 PW truck.

The Vintage yard I go to doesn't have any, so I'm looking for individuals or businesses that might have one to sell. Haven't seen anything on Ebay, are there other sites dealing in Dodge parts that might have one? Nothing presently in the "parts for sale" here, unfortunately.

Looking for a 2-barrel (single carb) 230 intake- don't see any on Ebay. Anybody know where I can find one?

I'd be a little hesitant to try that on a 230- the block casting is thin around the exhaust seats, and turbos back up a lot of heat in the exhaust manifold. Supercharging would be a safer route to forced induction, IMO. You could also do the Squires "remote turbo" setup, but I've always wondered what happens to fast-spinning compressor blades when condensation hits them....

Here's some pics of the internal bypass plugging operation I did on the '57-59 230 head to retrofit it to the early external bypass block. Pic #1 shows the bypass hole (at the pen tip). I used a 1/8" pipe tap to thread the hole down about 13/64" (pic #2). I started the tap with the head in a Bridgeport mill to assure it was going in straight, but you can do it by hand if you're careful. Depth isn't critical, you just want the plug below the gasket surface. I found the thread engagement of the allen head plug was sufficient, which means no cleanup milling- very convenient. Since it's steel, use either white Loctite thread sealer or blue Loctite threadlocker to seal water out of the threads and prevent rusting. Pic #3 shows the plug about 30 thou below the gasket surface. I haven't looked at internal bypass block, but the same thing will work if you have about 1/4" depth of hole to tap. Keep in mind that cast iron is soft and easy to strip when you tap and run the plug in, go easy with these operations, or you'll be bumming...

I'm going to be doing a plug operation fairly soon with the '57 head, so I'll take pics and report how it shakes out. The internal bypass gasket would seal the hole if the head/block surfaces are good, BUT- it's right at the edge of the head, with no clamping nearby, and if the edge of the gasket fails, you'll lose coolant pretty quickly. The glycol in coolant is flammable, and WILL burn your car down if the water evaporates off on a hot surface. This could happen here if the escaping coolant hit the fan blades and gets blown back over the exhaust manifold (Google "Coolant fires" for more info). The 57-59 head is the one with good compression AND flow, the rest aren't very special. Whacking a big slice off to "improve Compression" at the expense of flow will be counterproductive. You want to get flow first, then go for compression. This approach isn't too popular with the bolt-on crowd, because it involves a lot of painstaking work, but it will yield the best result.