bbuswell

I purchased one of these kits from Mitchelle Motors and they rubber fell apart after 6 months. Two of them melted and the rest of them rotted away.

I've heard good things about the cunifer line but I'm just using regular copper from home depot. I've also read about all the problems with copper but I decided to hell with it and went that route anyway. I do examine my engine often, almost daily before I go to work, and if it starts to leak or look brittle, I'll swap it out. I have a very small section of copper in my fuel line but most of it is long brass nipples and fittings. My steel fuel line runs into a fuel pressure regulator, and then black braided AN line (for flexibility), then into the fuel filter. I'm running Langdon's HEI with a small modern plastic vacuum line coming off the intake to the distributor. I used to run the vacuum line off the Langdon carbs but the Meteors’ don't appear to have a vacuum port. The line is routed behind the head and down the block. The other small copper line coming from the intake runs to a PCV valve. I replaced the down draft tube using the adaptor from Vintage Power Wagons. My goal was no rubber and no visible wires... it's close. The A/C compressor is where the generator used to be and the alternator sits above it.

I made all my lines out of copper... we'll see how it goes, it's only been about 1000 miles. Doubled flared with exta long nuts. I don't have a heater.

I drive it to work every day. 10 miles each way on the Florida turnpike between 75 and 80 mph. I get some odd looks blowing past modern cars. With 4 wheel discs it doesn't scare me that much... the stock steering is surprisingly tight. I've put about 12,000 miles on it since the resto, maybe 200 with the Saaty's... and there staying!

Last vid:

race-mart.com but I've seen them on Summit. http://race-mart.3dcartstores.com/Earls_Plumbing-EAR-64151504ERL.html I have 3 of them, two for the filter and one for the guage. I did get it off eBay but yours looks better as it has the cap off to the side. Mine is in the middle and I have to fill it with a funnel and hose. The inlet and outlet were right so it was the best I could do. I wanted to get the original repaired and took it to two shops but they said it was too far gone and was un-repairable.

Thanks. 260 duration... that's what Earl recommended.

I have 4 inch flexible braided steel lines that connect to the block. The hardlines connect to those... to allow for movement.

Final got my Saaty carbs installed and tweaked the best I can get them. Below is a link if you want to see them running. I’ll post a video of my car driving this weekend. They definitely whistle and screech and sound somewhat like a slipping fan belt but they have also added a noticeable power increase. With these on it can really snap your head back when you punch it. I’m not running the chokes so it’s a little hard to start sometimes but I think living in south Florida I’ll get by. They are super smooth and quite at cruising speed but with my Edgerton cam it’s has a pretty rough idle. Overall, I would say they run better than the Langdon carbs I had before, which work very well by the way. I’m not that happy with the wimpy air filter in the velocity stacks so I’m looking for a small cone shaped one that I can stuff inside. In the video the idle is a bit high but I’ve been able to bring down to about 800, any lower than that and it about shakes me out of the car. Brett

I'm using a nwc T5 I purchased from Tom Langdon and a Paul Curtis adapter plate. The input shaft extension he provided broke so I made a similar one out of steel and it seems to work fine. I had to have the transmission input shaft collar turned down so the stock throw out would fit over it. Other than that it was pretty easy. On my 39 the tranny didn't interfer with anything and I didn't have to make and frame or cross member changes.

1939 p7.

I have a T5 with a .76 O/D and 3.45 rear. I drive mostly on the highway and it totally depends on the speed. 60-65 mph I get 17-18 mpg; 75-80 mph I get about 12 mpg...

I have a 230 from a 1950 Dodge fluid drive in my 39 P7 (201). I'm using the 39 4-bolt flywheel, bellhousing, foot starter, clutch linkage, throw out and made no modifications. The 230 has the 8-bolt crank flange. Apparently I'm getting enough reach for the starter to engange as I've never had a problem turning it over. One thing that got me was the smaller pilot bushing used by fluid drives.

I think she had a little more but the front end was getting squirrely. I drive it 25 miles daily on the South Florida turnpike with no hills and straight highway. On the morning commute you need to go about 80 to ride in the fast lane or people will be cussing, cutting off, and flashing their lights. I actually had a whole website about my car but didn't pay the domain fee and it disappeared a couple of years ago. I'm updating it now and will get it back out there eventually. My P7 coupe has a 230ci out of a 1950 dodge mated to a NWC T-5 using a modified Paul Curtis adapter. The rear-end is a 7.6 out of a 94 mustang that original had 2.76 gears with disc brakes. I drove with those gears for a few months and it was surprisingly very drivable. I couldn’t shift into 5th until I was up to 75 or I would start to lose acceleration even at wide-open throttle. I found a used 3.45 Ring and Pinion on eBay for $50 dollars, from an astro van or something. That change made it perfect in my opinion. Also added Charlie Akers front discs and his shock relocation brackets. I'm not positive if the coupe came stock with a front sway bar but my car didn't have one when I bought it. It did have the holes in the frame for one so I found one on ebay for a sedan and that tightened it up even further. I swapped out the original leaf spring hardware and rubber with polyurethane bushing and fabbed up my own shackles. That took all of the body roll out of the rear. The engine has all the standard hop up parts, all of Langdon's stuff, .050 off the head, custom single exhaust. Was thinking around 140 hp. However I just pulled my car a part and sent my cam to Earl Edgerton to get the last few HP I can. Only thing I haven’t done are the high RPM oiling mods. I’ve thought about putting in a rack and pinion from a cavalier on but I think the stock steering is too good to mess with. I did the front-end alignment with a tape measure and some string. I don’t, but I can actually take my hands off the steering wheel at 80 and it will hold a straight line. Any minor vibrations I have actually smooth out at 75 and often forget I’m not in a modern car, and with those big 4 wheel disc brakes I’m more worried about getting rear-end than being able to stop myself. The standard catalog of American cars lists the coupes weight at only 2300 lbs. If anyone wants any further info just ask. Brett

According to carnut.com all 1941 Plymouths are 201 ci. so it sounds like it will work. Why are you using that head? Have you tried it with a 230 head? I also thought the older heads had a smaller chamber, resulting in greater compression. I guess on a stand you can't say much about the performance. I will probably try it but the head gaskets are kinda pricey and don't appear to be re-usable. I took .050 off the 1950 230ci. head and the 1939 head is untouched. I guess I'll have to cc them myself to find out how they compare. If I ever do I'll post my findings.