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MattWalker

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Everything posted by MattWalker

  1. The body shop did an initial assessment at 6000 dollars to fix it. It is insured for 7k so 70% of that is 4900 which is the value Hagerty's totals out cars at. So, if the estimate is accurate then it is totaled. Part of me hopes it is totaled so I can just go buy another one so I don't have to wait for it to be fixed. On the other hand I spent 6 months working on those damn brakes and I bought and installed a restored accurate radio for it as well which would all be down the drain. I'm now also worried I did get a good deal and did not insure the car for enough as a result. Anyways the assesor is looking at the car tomorrow so I will let you guys know.
  2. I paid 5700 for my car, is that a good deal? I was thinking it was high at the time but maybe these car cost more than I thought? I like that car but I would prefer something more stock looking.
  3. I called hagerty and filed a claim. If the fix estimate is accurate then the car is totaled. I guess I'll have to see. What is the price these days for a 4 door p15 in decent shape?
  4. I'm insured with Haggerty and I did call them but have not filed a claim yet. Should I? Will that make my premium go up? I never spoke with the insurance company from the tow truck place but I'm guessing I should. I suppose if I filed with Haggerty, Haggerty would go after them anyway. I called another classic car shop and he said 6k sounds cheap. He said its all about the hours required to reshape the metal without using bondo.
  5. The car looks perfect from 20 feet away. Close up the pot metal is pitted but the bumpers and grill and other chrome are in good shape. The paint job is decent but amateur. I'll try to find some parts for these guys, last time I saw just an emblem for the hood it was a couple hundred bucks I think.
  6. So I was having brake trouble on my 48 P15. I posted a thread on here and got a bunch of great suggestions but for whatever reason, I still could not get the brakes right. I finally decided to take it to a mechanic who knows old cars and had AAA tow it there.... Well on the way, the chain broke on the flat bed and the p15 crashed into the wall between the cab and the bed on the tow truck. It smashed the emblem, broke the bumper guards off and bent the bumper, bent the hood in, dented the grill and might have damaged the frame... Well the tow truck guy wants a local body shop he is familiar with to fix it who estimated the damage at 2k and I had a guy who specializes in old cars who happened to be next door to the mechanic shop and he estimated 6k. They both can't be right, right? A new grill, a new hood, new bumper(possibly), how much would that run? I want it done right but is 6k absurd? Can an ordinary body shop fix an old car?
  7. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I will try to see if I can figure this out. If not, is there anybody in the Atlanta area that knows these cars well? There must be an antique car mechanic?
  8. Assuming I find the push rods are too short, is there a good place to get longer push rods or specify what size I need? I know for a fact that there are a few different size push rods across the four wheels cuz I noticed this when I was reassembling them. I didn't think much of it til I just read your post. But the more you adjust the shoes out in general, couldn't you end up needing to change the push rods length? In other words, do you need to change the push rods as the brakes wear?
  9. So here is the story so far- My car was just not stopping period so, I did new hoses, new wheel cylinders, new shoes, rebuilt master, flushed the brake lines, adjusted the major and minor adjusters(using the feel method from the tech page), took it out for drive yesterday.... And the pedal is still going low. It does stop the car but it goes nearly to the floor and I can pump it back up with a few strokes to about half way. It never goes all the way to the floor though, about an inch or so of the floor. This makes me think its air but I bled the brakes 3 times. Am I doing it wrong? I'm just getting a friend to pump up some pressure on the pedal by pumping it a few times and then I attach a tube and crack the bleed valves til I don't see bubbles....do I need to put alot of fluid through it to make sure all the bubbles are gone? Do I need to get a pressure bleeder? Any help would be appreciated.
  10. Thanks alot. This forum is amazing. Thanks for the help.
  11. And I got the master cylinder back on and all is great! Taking the floor out took like 20 minutes. Thanks for the help. One more thing though, I have a spring in my hand and I don't know what it goes to. One end was in a small hole in the frame in front of the mc and is attached to a an egg shaped washer with two holes, one for the spring and one for a bolt? Does this go on the clutch pedal linkage as a return spring? Or possibly on the brake pedal as a return spring? Thanks, Matt
  12. So I got a 1948 P15 a couple months ago and realized the brakes weren't doing so well. I replaced all the wheel cyliders, the shoes and a drum. Then I thought the master might not be so hot so I tried to take it off the car to rebuild it....which was much harder than I thought. It probably took me about 8 hours to get it off of there and I've probably spent the same trying to get it back on. The issue is I cannot get the pedals back through the holes in the floor and on the mc at the same time. If I put both pedals on the mc, the tops of the pedal arms hit the top part of the hole. If I put both pedals through the holes first and then try to get them on the mc, the angle is too extreme for them to fit. This must be doable, do I need to remove the floor? I believe whoever restored the car replaced the floor there and riveted it down. He also glued the carpet to it so I can't see underneath unless I rip it up. Perhaps are the holes in the floor cut smaller than the originals? Am I missing something? Can I remove the pegs the pedal arms mount to on the mc? Any help would be appreciated. Matt
  13. about 3 years ago when i disassembled my 49 ply first series i think i removed a spring that went from the under body to the emergency brake band. i have tore the garage apart looking for said spring. did one ever exist or was it an added helper from previous owner? thanks tom

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