-
Posts
4,314 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
43
Community Answers
-
Jeff Balazs's post in Front Spring Installation was marked as the answer
Correct. These are special grease type fittings. Roberts or VPW may have them. My originals are centered but do not have boots. They should be greased often. Contrary to some thinking they need to provide anchorage with a good range of movement. They are just as important as the rear mounts. I guess it isn't any wonder why some complain about ride quality and resort to removing leaves. Get this right and you might just have a truck that rides nice.
Jeff
-
Jeff Balazs's post in Pertronix Installation help was marked as the answer
Roland;
It would be best if you bought and installed a matched coil from Pertronix. From what I understand failures that have been reported are often as a result of having the wrong coil. You should follow their instructions to the letter........including wire size.
Jeff
-
Jeff Balazs's post in Starting Troubles was marked as the answer
If it were me I would start by putting in fresh points and condenser, cap and rotor and perhaps plugs and wires. Do you know what plugs are in it and are they gapped correctly? Autolite 306 plugs gapped at .035" generally work well.
Hope this helps, Jeff
-
Jeff Balazs's post in 1951 B2D 1 ton Pickup was marked as the answer
According to Bunn's book the rating did not change between the two different WB. The hub should stick out quite a ways on the single wheel rear axle. There were 3 ratings for the single rear wheel versions......5500#...6000# and 6800# The lightest rated trucks had a 4.5" wide front wheel......the other two used 5.5" wide wheels all around. I think the difference between the 6000# and 6800# ratings is in the rear spring ratings. There looks like there were two different sets available......both 10 leaves...but one set was rated several hundred pounds higher.
That is about all I can glean from this book on this subject.
Jeff
-
Jeff Balazs's post in What is best way to refinish dash knobs? was marked as the answer
I think a lot depends on the condition of the knobs you have to work with. Mine range from as new to fairly worn. The definition around the letters on the worn ones won't lend itself to holding much detail. I got decent results with a couple of light coats of black spray paint and filling the letters with white then cleaning and buffing.
They came out fine ....... not as new maybe..... but then the truck is 60 years old and should show some wear. No big surprise here but the choke knob has the most wear. Just what I would expect to see.
You don't need to mask these off to spray......just find a thin metal hole template with a 3/4" diameter hole and use it as a spray shield. Works very well.
I would not attempt to try and take one of these apart........but I have drilled one out and epoxied in a thread insert for one switch which has a different thread pattern than stock. No problem doing this.
Jeff
-
Jeff Balazs's post in Windshield Wiper Motor was marked as the answer
I agree and then try bench testing it. If it still seems like it isn't working right Northwest Starter can repair these. Reasonable and very professional service.
Jeff