DeS-11

If it's the kind with the removable back, you could maybe take it off and check the impeller for damage or corrosion, as well; I think it would be pretty obvious then if it were actual NOS or not. And in addition to what JB said above, you could also make sure that the bearings don't have too much play in them. That's about all I would do.

Thanks for all of the ideas; hopefully I'll get some time soon to look into it, and I'll let you know what I find. Hopefully one day I'll be able to actually drive it for some kind of distance, as well. . . it's supposed to be fun, so I hear, and I keep reminding myself. . .

I'll have to check that wiring and see how it is, as that's something I've not done yet. It shuts off after you engage the clutch, as soon as you go to step on the accelerator--basically as soon as the forward gear engages--a frustrating problem, to be sure. Thanks for the Imperial Club service information, as well; I read through it and it should be a good resource to have regarding this transmission. The principles seem straightforward enough, but it looks like there are a lot of small moving parts to go bad, especially after nearly 80 years.

This just came up, so I wanted to get some of your thoughts before I go further into it (and I won't have time for a little while yet, anyway); this is relating to a '47 S-11 with the semi-auto transmission. The engine turns over seemingly normally (for 6v anyway) and starts after several revolutions, idling normally. You can raise the RPM and all seems smooth, with no missing or hesitation; you can go into reverse gear, and the car moves normally. But when you go into a forward gear (specifically third in the 3/4 range), the engine quits immediately as if the ignition had been turned off, but will start back up right away. This happened twice in a row, both with the lights on, it should be noted; it hadn't happened previously, with or without the lights. So what are your thoughts? I was thinking a possible issue with the idle speed being too low, so I'll see where that is (although I don't know why it wouldn't have been an issue before). Could it be a dying coil, or might a weak battery lead to this? The fact that the lights were on when it happened, and I've mostly only been doing very short drives recently (short enough to where the battery probably isn't being charged enough) led me to think that. The strange part is that it runs well in neutral, but then just cuts out altogether when the driveline load is applied--and the carb dashpot wouldn't have anything to do with this as it occurs when taking off from a stop, not coming to a stop, correct? Any ideas are welcome, especially from anyone who's experienced this with one of these transmissions.

Thanks for the replies. Chry41, where is the thread that you mention posted? I'd be interested in reading it in its entirety.

I agree; that's a good suggestion, and something that I also didn't know about. I appreciate the idea.

I've read about the circa '42 DeSoto one (and I think there is a video out there about it); I recall it was mounted somehow in the steering wheel hub section, and was only a dispenser, not a lighter. Was the Chrysler one similar to this? I've never seen one in person, but I think it would be great to have for the uniqueness, if nothing else.

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Thank you to everyone for the replies and suggestions, and to Dan especially for taking the time to get that part out and take the pictures (the measurements are really helpful to see). It would be nice to have an original, but if I can't come up with one, I'll probably do just as Merle and Loren mentioned and make one with the threaded rod and nuts.

Mine's missing--has anyone reproduced these (for the "big six" car applications), or is it best to just make up something that will fit?

Does anyone know of a site that tells how to decipher the information on the firewall data plates on '40s Mopars (the one with "model," "body," "paint," etc.)? I can't find much (most is geared toward later models), but I want to see what I can determine off of mine.

Welcome; I'm also fairly new to the site, and to these cars (I just got mine a few weeks ago, and have been learning as I go and doing things little by little). I likewise have interest in old radios, amps, and TVs, although I've never completely restored any from top to bottom--only done minor repairs as needed to keep them operating. Your car looks great; the two-door sedan body style is definitely an attractive one.

Thanks very much for putting that together; the pictures really tell the story. I thought the same as you, that those terminals (just like the one seen on the Niehoff box in your photo) seem pretty poor in design, although I suppose they must have done the job at least adequately if they stuck around for a while. But I think it would make sense to get a box of the more reliable ones that you mentioned and avoid later issues. I appreciate the pictures of the crimpers, as well, and I now realize that it will probably pay to spend a little on the correct tool for this in order to do it right.

I tried searching here and elsewhere, but couldn't really find an answer to this. Regarding the distributor-end terminals of the vintage-type plug wires, what is the correct way to attach them? I'm referring to the small gold ones with the one prong at the end and one at each side. It seems you just stick the end prong into the wire conductor and then crimp the side prongs into the insulation, but I have a feeling there's more to it than that. As you can tell, I've not done this before! And is there a "correct" crimper to use, or will a standard wire crimper do for this? Thanks for any help.

I used Marvel on nearly every fill-up on another old car (also with a mechanical fuel pump) that I daily drove a few years ago, and never had an issue with the fuel pump in the entire time I drove it, which was seven or eight years. I think it's a great product and will continue to use it in the same way.