OnlyMopar

I need the fuzzy channel/track for the glass to ride up and down in,have the other parts. Sorry I wasn't more discreptive initially .

For reference,working on '47 Dodge Custom, 7 passenger. I want to install the new glass in the door windows,front,rear, and wing vents. I have searched our archives, and regular posts, and not a lot of luck. Most of the information is related to " who not to buy from, poor fitment, or poor quality of product. I have the new glass just need to find the correct channel and such. Any suggestions would be appreciated greatly,thanks. Unfortunately, the old stuff is totally gone,so nothing to measure or match up.

Actually very easy,motor just needed cleaning and greasing.

On my 47 Dodge custom,I need to remove the electric windshield wiper motor and assembly. Any suggestions, or " look out for" would be greatly appreciated. I already have the entire dash components removed. Thanks

Thanks, I hooked it up in series with a heater fan, on the bench, and noted/recorded the needle deflection. So, my understanding of that is can do the same when I install it and the dash... Just place it between a battery feed wire,ie main light switch feed in wire and the light switch itself,right???

Sorry, should have asked how to connect the meter itself. My wiring diagram shows connecting it to the ignition switch, light switch, voltage regulator, and the ignition coil. Can I put the meter in a circuit without the voltage regulator,ignition coil , if so how? I can load it with several electrical drains.

Sorry ,but have another question about bench testing the ammeter,before I put the dash/gauges back in place. Is there a straight forward way the ammeter can be tested. I have everything wired up and fully functioning, I still have all the external lighting, heater fans, interior lights connected, so I can apply a load . I don't have any of the engine bay electricals connected. So can I put the ammeter into the other circuits to check it? Thanks

Thanks for the door switch pic, am sure will be appreciated by those requesting it.

Unable to get your posted image to open,sorry

Original positive ground,6 volt. All I had to do was a good cleaning,I used WD 40, just made sure I kept the clock upright the whole time, and filed the contact points. Also made sure I maintained a 3 amp fuse. Best of luck with yours.

This may be best addressed to DJK, as I have not ought or replaced any of my switches. I was seeking and got information about the placement and assignment of the original switches in my car, sorry

Thanks for info. I guess there wasn't an auto door switch on the driver's door pillar so as not to bother rear seat passengers until the driver opened the doors for them,only reason I can come up with.

Have finished rewiring and bench testing my dash switches and gauges and everything appears to working the way it is supposed to. I am working on my 47 Dodge Custom, 7 passenger Limo,for reference to any help you may have. It has a single dome light at the rear of the cabin, and two reading lights located on each of the rear door pillars. There are auto door pillar switches on both rear doors and the front passenger door, none on the driver side door, no even a hole for a door pillar switch. If anyone has a similar car,am I correct in assuming that all 3 auto door pillar switches should operate the single rear dome light, and each reading light should be controlled by the slide switch located on each door pillar. If you car has a different setup can you share how and when the dome light and reading lights are activated. Thanks

Still fine tuning it,lol. Watching it for about 12 hours intervals before adjusting it.

Was able to get my dash clock working. Just needed to file the contact points for the electro magnet winding mechanism, has been a really good,productive day. Moving forward,slowly, but moving in the right direction.

Was actually wondering that ,will do thanks, and post results.

Working on my 47 Dodge Custom,my question is about the turn signals/flasher. My steering column signal switch has 3 wires. A wire from it connects to the L (load) terminal on the flasher, the other two connect respectively to the R and L turn signal bulbs. The flasher terminals, has two, the L, as discussed above and X terminal for connecting to a power source, according to the model.specific wiring diagram I have. The issue I am having is when I connect everything , as described above, the signal lights come on correctly when I select a right or left turn,but do not blink on and off,just a steady light. I have replaced the flasher with 3 different one, they all give the same results, steady illumination for the appropriate bulb side selected, but will not blink on and off. What am I missing or messing up. I am bench testing the dash/gauges, and everything is working as it should ,except the turn signals. I will add, that I am using only the turn signal indicator bulbs on the dash, I have not actually attached the actual turn signal (exterior) bulbs, would that make a difference? The wiring diagram shows the interior indicator bulbs as just being spliced into the wires leading to the exterior bulbs for each side. Again what am I missing or messing up? In the pic attached, the " long leg on the flasher" is where the power source attached and actually has what appears to be a thermal breaker on it, the other two terminals are marked L, for load and P if dash indicator light are used as a separate circuit and not just spliced into the wires running to the R and L light circuit. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for response ,I see it now

Thanks for your response and encouragement. May I ask where your high beam light indicator is located, a pic of the dash with it illuminated would be most helpful,thanks

Yeah,my concern also, one of those wait to see times,fingers crossed

Thanks for response. Waiting for sending unit for fuel tank/gauge. Have checked mechanical temp gauge and mechanical oil pressure gauge. Using regular 6 volt auto battery to check switches for lights and fan motors. A slow process for sure.

The actual question is,has anyone ever done a bench test? I have completed the vast majority of a total rewire of my 47 Dodge Custom,which was included the complete removal of the dash and gauge cluster. I would like to bench test/trouble shoot it before installing it, have any of you done so, if so any pointers on how to do it or things to avoid would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks to all that provided input to my light socket question. I was able to order new sockets for dash cluster from AutoZone.

Yes, wiring shoot, and spring/washers shoot also, and not maintaining contact with the bulb.

Trying to locate a source for small dash bulb sockets. Need 3, one for each direction indicator, and one for the high beam indicator. They are for a 1947 Dodge Custom. I have searched using every search word I can think of, any help would be appreciated