Flat Jack

Hi guys, thanks for the re-plies. I can't find anything on this sites search feature even with help from other members, I just do a google search then find results from P15-d24. I searched Dodge 218 timing chain because my book gives the oddest method to start the timing chain process. I thought No. 1 TDC on compression stroke must be wrong. No, they just have a odd way of getting you there. I was actually trying to find a photo of the front plate to see if the flat head screw went into the oil galley or the water jacket since I put no sealer on it. Anyway in the sub headings under that search there was Dodge 218 timing frustration I clicked on. Then so on and so on and came to this oil pump deal. To the member who couldn't find the other pump failure click the link someone gave in my responses says oil pump failure back in 2020. That one is Bdblazer1978's oil pump issue. Anyway as I stated in my comment I'm not ruling out gear wear. Rule of thumb is never run a new gear against a worn one unless absolutely necessary. Took my cam to Tacoma Camshaft and I never paid any attention to the condition of the pump drive gear. Don't know if they can be built up then redone or not. Here are a couple photos. I will defiantly be using either the old pump or my old drive gear. By the way this 1948 B1B has 70,000 miles and was completely worn out. .040 taper in the cylinders. I will also be running the lowest oil pressure acceptable. Flat Jack

I think I meant Melling.

Oh crap. Sitting here killing time reading posts on this and that and come across a August 2020 post from Bdblazer1978 about a brand new Mellen oil pump that came with his rebuild kit almost destroying his new engine. That's what came in my kit and is ( was ) about to go in my totally rebuilt 218. How disappointing. Put on my coat and hat and ran to grab my old oil pump for a quick look. After reading this post I plan on reusing it since it seems in good shape. Since that post was 4 years ago is this still a problem? I did notice two things on my old pump. 1) The gear has definite wear on the tips, and 2), The outer gear in the head has a 1/8" wide slot that runs against the housing that the Mellen does not have. Assuming the cam gear is worn the same as the pump gear could the nice new square tooth gear on the Mellen be trying to " climb" the worn gear on the cam? Could the slot have something to do with better oiling around the outer edge of the pump? What's your guys thoughts and how did Bdblazer solve his issue? . Is gray beard Dave Erb? If so I would like to thank him. I printed his article " Some thoughts on Mopar flatheads" several years ago and am putting all to work in my engine. Now please don't tell me he passed. Thanks Flat Jack

Well, I had to loosen my main caps anyway because I forgot to put my flywheel bolts in the crank. I went ahead lifted the front cap and there is no groove to put a piece of o-ring in. However. there is a groove on either side of the front seal piece that goes below the main cap for the pan. I cut two strips and went chicken soup on it. Jack

Thanks Merle but the note says the two strips go under the front main cap. Jack

Hello again. Couple more things. Is there a o-ring or gasket that goes where the oil pickup screen attaches to the pickup tube, seems awful loose. While looking through the gasket kit (fel pro) found a package with two o-rings and a note telling to use them to make two pieces 1 1/4 inch long and use for seals under the front main cap. Generic directions or for real. Hate to pull the cap just to check. If so seal from what? Wouldn't this be inside the pan and/or behind the timing chain cover? Thanks Flat Jack

Thank you Matt. I remembered I had my old shells somewhere so I went and found them. So now I at least have a guide. A dremel will be my weapon of choice. Thanks again. Flat Jack

Hey guys. Is this normal? Sealed Power shells. Ignore and move on? Flat Jack

Thanks KenCombs for the info and the link, worked good with 1948 Dodge 218 rear main seal install on one line and simply p15-d24.com on another. Finally found some useful info. Some interesting notes. When you very first responded to me you mentioned Rock Auto. I've bought from them before but they are not the first place that comes to mind. I went there right away and they had most of the stuff I just ordered from Andy Bernbaum for less money and WHAYYY less shipping. Shortly thereafter the valves and other parts where out of stock and still are. My basic rebuilt kit was Clegg from Auto parts Warehouse, now trying to find their website they seem to both be gone. In 52dodges' quest for similar info he stated the seals he received from VPW were marked 1952 and rock hard. Crap, I bought mine from VPW so I went to check, yep, hard as a rock. Any way to soften the rubber? Another member told him the newer neoprene one won't fit without machine work. Another said fel-pro makes them, part number BS 6300. Out of stock every where so I called fel-pro 1-800 number and the lady looked it up and said antique part-manufacture discontinued. Guess I will be using the rope that came in my gasket kit. My pistons and bearings were Seal Power. Could not find a website for them. Some stuff still on Rock Auto and a lot of bits and pieces on e-bay. Never a good sign. Bought 21 new head bolts from Andy Bernbaum @ $ 3.25(the 9/16 head style) Little longer than what I had so I called AB to see if they ever had any complaints? " no none at all". Also the threads are shorter so I now have 1/8 inch of shoulder past the bottom of the head with .050 milled off. Looks like I will be re-using my old ones after all. Bought 4 NOS rod bolts from VPW. Thought NOS meant "new old stock" They were used and fit loose in the rods. Guess it's ok just have to watch and make sure I don't have to go fishing. Has not been a good experience with these parts supplying experts. The parts kit came with 6 1 5/8" welch plugs, I need 7. I did get an extra smaller one but none for the head. I'm out of room, later. Flat Jack

Ok thanks everyone. Most of that went over my head but I will play with it latter. Meantime I will just do a google search where often times this forum comes up as a result. I so far have found little useful info on my rear main seal problem so I search on. Flat Jack

Will someone please explain to me how to use the search feature. I must be doing something wrong. I read a couple questions from members who where reprimanded for asking a question that has been discussed at nauseam instead of searching the topic. I have a question on my rear main seal I'm afraid to ask and I find the search bar on this forum useless. Flat Jack

Thanks. And no, they are the same ID top to bottom. I bought a .3435 piloted ream and ran through the exhaust and maybe took out a little. I did nothing with the intake. I really believe the countersunk ones are exhaust and the square top ones are intake. Both probably go pointed end down and neither need reaming. The warehouse guy likely new this, the salesman did not. VPW sells intake or exhaust, same part no. specify what you want. Rock Auto sells intake or exhaust with different part no's. By the way, Andy Bernbaum Parts has a flat shipping rate of $61.00, ouch! My intakes went pointed end up ( The second time ) and that's how they are staying. Done deal now. Just plasti gauged my rod bearings and got .001 to .0015. Broke in right from start-up, perfect. Block goes to the shop on 1-8-24 to get bored .060 over. Block also has a .010 to .015 hump in the center so will likely have .020 taken off. Haven't decided on the head yet, seems flat. Been looking everywhere trying to find how thick a unmolested head should be with no success. What do you think on shaving the head? When talking .030 your talking less than 1/32 inch in laymanns terms. A guy says on another forum on a stock bore engine for every .010 cut you raise the compression .1. A .030 cut you would go from 6.6 to 6.9. Is that worth $125? Thanks for your time John-T-53 hope to hear from you soon. Flat Jack

Couple more photos. Check out the wrist pin bore in the old piston and also the lack of the slit in the skirt in the new one. Then a couple of the beast and a few out of order. I am not a wizz at posting photos. Flat Jack

Thank you john t 53. I don't believe there wrong, just different. Some whipper snapper engineer reducing costs couldn't see why the extra step of counterboring was no longer needed given the new metal compositions of valves and guides. Face it guys NOS stuff is mostly gone now.

Morning Kencombs. Just went out and drove the intake guides out, softened the sharp step, flipped them and drove them back in. I sure don't feel warm and fuzzy about these valve guides. If the counterbore is supposed to hold a little oil to lube the stems , top for exhaust and bottom for intake I can't see that happening with this valve guide. Sure wish I would have ordered guides from VPW since theirs come 6 intake and 6 exhaust and generally need no reaming, according to other sites I found just recently. At $60 a set that's exactly what I just spent on one reamer from Woodward Equipment. Since this is somewhat of a learning site should I try and get photos of these guides? On the other issue the stems on my new after market valves mic at .3403 to .3406, right in the middle of the given range. I put my valve guides at about .3426. Should be fine for the intakes. I ordered a .3435 ream for the exhaust. That will leave them half thousands under minimum but for a truck whose working days are over I hope that will work. Thank you again for your response. I'll keep in touch as this $3000 engine project continues