47 1.5 ton

How bad is your motor? If crank and rods can be used, I would think you have many more options. I have a few 265’s here but not what you’re looking for. Why a school bus?

Not knowing how much prep you have gave it or length of time sitting, see if the hand crank is there. I would want to make sure it feels smooth rotating before trying to fire up and the hand crank is a good tool for job. I generally use it just when sitting through the winter. Agree with instructions given to you above for the process— just have patience to help prevent damage. These engines are known for stuck valves from sitting and forcing them can cause damage to the cam and timing chain. Love those trucks— best of luck!

That looks like a really neat event to do annually, wish we had ice that thick here. I always enjoy the pictures showing the old dodge on the lake and all the way to the ice house. Thanks for sharing!

Anything loose could cause some issues, just didn’t see it mentioned prior.

How much wear on the shackle bolts did you see?

Brake lines will be quicker than you think if you use the copper nickel, bends really nice. I used string on the old lines to establish a length, flared and went to town. Did have a few re-do’s until I polished my tube flaring skills, recommend some practice flares first and not over seating the final flare with the tool. My truck is loaded with more than 2 tons of supplies so that will need sold before I get many more road miles, June might beat me!

Glad to see your recovering and getting back at it! Waiting for snow to clear some so I can try my new tires, at your rate, you may be on the road before me. Take care, Kevin

Don’t have pictures that can help but wanted to know more on your brake setup. Will the booster you’ve bought clear and bolt to bell housing using the factory peddle? If your set up works, I may try something along that line so I can install an odrive box in the booster frame area in the future. Merry Christmas!

I can agree with your thoughts— going to move forward and install as is. I believe these are made universal to fit assortment of large trucks, just get more concerned on safety related items. thank you for the reply, Kevin

Question on if the bleeder “boss” that protrudes through backing plate needs to provide support to wheel cylinder to help prevent shifting? The replacement cylinders I have purchased are undersize but will “fit” through backing plate. I may be over-thinking this in that the boss size prevents shifting and was preparing to machine spacers restoring original intent size, then would need to secure to cylinder? Thoughts on this are appreciated. Thank you, Kevin

I’m guessing it’s rusted through, I have opened the cap when hot and no pressure. I get a small puddle in the garage when I put it away. Just another thing to keep an eye on. On the thermostat, seems these cheaper ones are sufficient per some old post I found. I have a few 301 Allis Chalmers diesel engines and replaced those with the Napa’s brand over the years due to availability and have not had any ill effects. Guess they must have been over engineered.

I am curious what comments come back on this. I used the cheap style like you have pictured and drilled a hole through it. When I cleaned the system there was no thermostat from the PO. I looked for the heavy duty ones like the book shows and didn’t have much luck but had the same issue on some of my older tractors. Without giving much thought, I used what Napa called heavy duty (did boil to see if it worked). I am now rethinking as these are LOW pressure systems and I have a freeze plug leaking when it gets hot.

You can but don’t think you are gaining much, those (4) base bolts need to line up and be stress free. I say that because I believe that contributed to why my original intake was cracked at the carb base. IMO— you can check flatness of block faces better assembling on a bench and use a template to check port spacing if desired. Just something to keep in mind, be sure the flange thickness is the same for the middle ones. I changed manifolds and there was abound .050” mismatch that needed addressed.

I really like those rear tires you went with. How much difference in height to the fronts? I believe you mentioned earlier that you only intended to use (1) wheel on the rear, was that do to clearance?

Does yours have a 2 speed or single rear? With 7.5x 20” tires it will make 50mph and I’m told stories up to 65mph. With a strong motor will do a little better. As mentioned, you can go to 8.25’s but will loose a little strength pulling but still in a good range. I get around the back roads fine around 45-50mph but you really need to make sure your brakes are all there as the fronts will slide pretty easy. When I started with mine, I was convinced 40 was it (5.625 ratio) but that was due to not pushing it harder and motor was short on power(it is no Cummins). I recently was working with a friend in his B series and he added a Brownie with OD, gave it a half gear up /under and very nice to operate. His was a little noisy to my liking so I’m looking at a Gear Vendor unit now. Going to be hard to keep those 5 bolt 20’s and make any real upgrade on rears. Just some thoughts—

2 ton rear wheel. Cylinders wanted View Advert Looking for a source or (2) un-molested large 2 ton rear wheel cylinders. Had a set sleeved by White-Post a few years ago that failed. Truck is now down and not operational. Will take whole rear end if close enough to Gettysburg Pa or parts truck. Thank you, Kevin 223 272 7245 Advertiser 47 1.5 ton Date 09/18/2024 Price $200 Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  

What size truck are you working with? You can add an auxiliary trans with overdrive behind what you have if enough frame length.

Wanted get more on the brake booster and master cylinder you are using?

Reading through this post points out several issues that need addressed when using the Chrysler B&B’s during initial setup. I also wanted to point out that once running, there needs to be slightly more spring tension applied and this adjustment would be a nice correction. My application is slightly different (using the completely factory set-up from air cleaners through intake manifold) but the carb issues were the same as I encountered. First time I ran my truck down a fairly steep hill at ~12k I noticed my throttle wanted to stick open with the duals because I had only figured spring tension at idle running. Although a light car may not see the extreme conditions, I believe it’s still something to keep in consideration. I did not have that issue when the single was installed. My correction was to add (2) more springs for safety which adds too much load to the linkage. Although adding counter weights to the system may be good in theory and possibly be tested, I believe the measurement needed could be in pounds instead of ounces. Thank you for adding this adjustment option to the forum. Kevin

“I am curious as to what you did to compensate for the flowdifferences? Porting/polishing? “. The factory linkage runs from one side as apposed to being split center like the AOK set-ups. This creates a ratio as you work with the lower linkage. I was able to adjust enough to split the balance close to equal at partial throttle. On the factory set-up w/balance tube, the dominant carb takes over and slowly equalizes back when set close. Just kept adjusting (lots of hours) until had good vacuum readings and rechecking idle measurements. Was not as easy as written here and not as nice as injection but does preform better than it started out with.

That’s the benefits of injection— consistency! I will stand by my past experiences that no (2) carbs measure the same through a various range. I am far from an expert but my conclusion is that the performance above idle is more important so after using (2) synchronizers, I went back to base carb vacuum for tuning with air cleaners installed at multiple RPM points. Then went and verified idle with synchro tools and measurement was good.

Sniper, My tuning in several points above idle was the most complicated. I originally thought that setting at idle would do the trick but soon learned that balancing at higher RPM was the tough challenge and this may have been because I decided to use the factory balance tube on the manifold. Bottom line is the compression needs to be consistent and the air cleaners or I could imagine a real head ache. I would almost bet that a 225 super six carb would work well enough and not have all the tuning required. I just wanted the nostalgia of the dual singles.

I am only going to comment on this post as you haven’t had any replies. There are several in depth conversations on here recently that you can search for. Just want to point out that I would advise to use a pair of the exact carbs. If you have good compression numbers, opening up the exhaust will be beneficial with little input. The dual carbs might have minimal benefits but be ready for some serious tinkering to have it correct. Took me about 5 times pulling them off but I was stubborn replacing the gas tank which caused a few issues that you may not have. It is a neat set-up that I enjoy if nothing else. Advise milling the head and a light cam to up the performance a little. I did add the set-up to the existing motor to try out without electronic choke carbs.

Good idea to make cover for tranny. I worked around the shifter 100x!

I wanted to know what your thoughts are for not using these? I’m talking about copper nickel— not just straight copper?