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Thanks Dale. I'm a ways off from doing this on my flatty but I have a 1964 Dart stationwagon I'm getting roadworthy right now with a slant six in it. I'll be doing this swap, http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779 soon to that and it should work with the slant Dizzy in flathead as well.

Have we heard if this works?

Sheilding gas helps a lot but I find it a bit hard to see the puddle with my elcheapo Craftsman 110 unit

Thanks guys. Pretty much confirmed what I thought

Local guy has a 1952 Business coupe that is complete except for tranny and carb and a couple wheels. Looks like it has good bones but will need all rubber replaced to be weatherproof. Surface rust only, no major dents, Aged paint to primer look. What do you think it's worth?

Somehow, I totally missed the pic in the original post and thought the second pic was the one everyone was referring to. Sorry folks.

But that "A" is part of the original casting. See what I'm saying? Here's a link for engine decoding I have used. I know it's probably not relivant to this thread but What the HEck! http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

Why would the engine be cast and it's already a .020 overbore?

Having second thoughts on reusing the rings. The tops of all the pistons had a think carbon buildup on them. Even though the crosshating was still visible, I think the oil rings had problems. Rethink time.

Rusty, did you read any of my posts?

Crank and pistons turn freely, valvetrain frozen. Gotta wait on a spring compressor. More updates later

OK, so what are opinions on reusing the rings and bearings? Like I said the engine is super clean on the bottom end and the crosshatch is still visible. ???????

Don, I bought it after it had locked up and was given no nformation on it. The guy I got it from was not the previous owner. I bought it mainly for the bellhousing and spare parts but it's looking promising.

Merle, that was going to be my approach. Pull pistons one by one and try and rotate and then mains after that.

I started pulling apart my spare engine yesterday with my helper (girlfriend's son). It's a 218 out of a 52 Plymouth, I haven't reverfied the casting number but my old memory tells me I did t once and it was the 218 correct for that year. The thing looks like it barely had 1000 miles on it when it froze up. You can still see some of the crosshatchng on the cylnder walls and the one piston we pulled came out really easily (no ridge). I'll pull the rest of the pistons soon. They are stamped 30 over. I almost want to reuse everything and throw it back together. The bearings look brand new. Any thoughts on what made it freeze up? I'm thinking an incorrect bearing tolerance. There was a large amount of carbon buildup for as fresh as this thing looks. I have a 230 I was going to rebuild. I'll still have a machine shop check the 218 block if I go that route I'm just bouncing things around now. Thanks

Will do. Thanks again everyone

So now I'm really confused. If I was keeping score it seems like 3 say it'll work and 3 say it won't. Hmmmmmmmmm. I guess that's the hobby we play with though. Thanks to everyone. My 230 is mated to a powerflight and the 218 I have is from a 52 Plymouth with a manual gearbox. Any issues with the crank? I don't have the 230 pulled yet. Thanks again

I have a T5 I will adapt to the bellhousing

Hello Sages. Can I use a 218 flywheel with a 230?

I once "unstuck" a 1953 Chevy 235 that had gotten rain into the cylinders and rusted. After removing the head I poured Marvel Mystery oil into each cylinder. Monitored this all work week and added as necessary. Sat morning I took the oil pan off and unbolted the rods from the crank. Took a nice cylinderical piece of mesquite cut to about 10 inches in length and a small sledge and began tapping not so gently around the perimeter of the pistons that were at the bottom of their throw upward. Got all of them loose this way. Urban legend sounding story, but I put a set of rings and rod bearings in it and it ran pretty darn good for the 3 years I had the truck

Thanks Rusty. I was wondering if there were micrometer specs for diameter that needed to be checked for the shaft. Sounds like a visual and the machinist would really be the determining factor. How often do the shafts stretch? Thanks again

Used the search function but didn't really find my answer. Is it common practice to machine the block and then install hardened valve seats for the intake valves? What criteria is used to determine if a valve should be replaced versus reground?

I have a 56 plymouth and I'm investigating parts for a front end rebuild. I haven't really torn into the suspension, but researching parts they seem expensive and limited. If the shafts have bushing on the ends, why can't we simply buy the bushing? From the FSM it looks like they are brass and threaded but still they should be available somehwere right? Thanks

Thanks Joel. That's exactly what I've been doing so far. Jersey, it looks very comparable to your's. Thanks guys

Needs to be totally restored. Owner says it runs. Looks like it needs glass ( I have not seen it in person yet), some dents, etc. Southwest car